Servicing a Super Turbine 300 2 speed trans

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by Matt Kingsbury, May 13, 2020.

  1. Hey guys,

    I’m new to ‘65 Buick Skylark ownership. My car has been sitting awhile, my grandfathers car. I’m changing all fluids out and getting her ready for some Summer fun and car shows in TN. I have a 300 ci 2 barrel, with the 2 speed trans.

    Question: what’s the proper torque for the pan bolts and correct fluid amount for this transmission? I already got a cork Fel-Pro gasket and have cleaned off the old gasket material with plastic razor blades. The pan is in great shape and was not over torqued before. I found an old article on the internet saying 10-16 ft lbs on the bolts, but that’s a big swing. It also said 19 pints? Is that right? Obviously I’ll have to check the final level after I’ve warmed up the trans and vehicle is in park.

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Aaron65

    Aaron65 Well-Known Member

    The torque specs seem right to me...I'd say most people don't even bother with a torque wrench on the trans. pan bolts. Like you said, you don't want to deform the pan. If you're using a torque wrench, I'd start at the lower number and criss-cross my way around it a few times as the gasket compresses a little. Maybe split the difference and torque it to 12 or 13 ft./lbs.

    ***author edit*** If you only drained the pan, you'll probably need fewer than 5 quarts. Before starting the engine, add a quart at a time and watch the dipstick. It's easy to overfill a transmission, and not so easy to drain off the excess! Once you fill the trans to about the "add" mark on the dipstick, it's probably all right to start the engine to check the level. Until the engine/trans are actually warmed up, I'd keep it filled to just over the "add" mark, because when everything is hot after a drive, the level tends to be higher.

    If the transmission goes into gear crisply, you can take it for a short drive and come home and check the level and add accordingly. The key (for me) is to sneak up on the level (without running it too low) so you don't overfill it. Good luck!
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2020
  3. I converted 19 pints to 9.5 quarts or 2.375 gallons. I drained the pan of course, but how do you drain the torque convertor? This is a new process for me, so I'm learning as I go.

    After putting on the pan and criss-cross torquing the bolts, I thought I was ready to add the ATF. I started pouring in ever so slowly one full gallon and then started adding the second gallon based on my conversion. Assuming I was a long way from getting to the point of measuring on the stick, but it began to overflow so I have done something wrong. Any suggestions other than unbolting the pan again and starting over? I have another gasket for a future drain and refill that I can use if needed and of course the lost fluid. Definitely not a mistake I'll make a second time!
     
  4. Aaron65

    Aaron65 Well-Known Member

    Duh...I messed up my pints and quarts!!! Most of the time, people just drain the pan and leave the converter, in which case you only add about 3 or 4 quarts. Honestly, I don't even remember if an ST300 has a converter drain. If it does, you can remove the inspection cover and find a drain plug. I'd say you don't have to do that if your grandpa had the car rebuilt back in the '90s (just my opinion).

    When you say "overflowing," where is it coming out? If it's a little high on the dipstick, you can try starting the engine, because the level will go down once the engine is running because the pump will start pumping fluid where it belongs, in the transmissions passageways and the converter. If it's coming out the top of the dipstick tube, you'll probably have to drop the pan and try it again, although I've occasionally had luck using a fluid pump with a long tube down the dipstick tube.

    If you end up trying to start the engine...be careful and be ready to shut it off immediately if you hear any weird noises (although it's unlikely that you will). I'd have some catch pans underneath, because it may try to push fluid out the vent if it's too full.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2020
  5. It was coming out of what appeared to be a vent tube, but not out of the dipstick passage. I was thinking the same thing, I have a little hand pump with a hose I could run down that and probably would get some out. Thank you for the info, very helpful!

    As a separate note, I'm looking at changing the rear diff fluid, draining all the fuel out of the tank and refilling with non-ethonal 90 octane we have around the corner plus flushing the old anti-freeze. All the fluids are from the mid 90's, but the car was always stored inside and probably only driven 500 miles since the frame-off resto. The fluids looked to be normal color except for the brake fluid which was obviously very brown and rusty but no seized cylinder at this point.

    Have you done any of the above jobs on a 65 Skylark and have any pointers? I know all the basics of those jobs, both are pretty straight forward but anything specific to the model will be helpful.
     
  6. Aaron65

    Aaron65 Well-Known Member

    The gear oil is no big deal; just pull the cover to drain it and use a new gasket (or a careful application of a bead of RTV) to seal it. Then fill it until fluid just starts to run out the fill plug and you're done. Be careful about your gasket! I ordered one from Rock Auto and they sent one for an 8.5" rear end. Your Buick has a BOP 8.2, and the cover design is different.

    I'd definitely flush the brakes. If you have someone to help, just keep bleeding each wheel and filling up the master cylinder (and reattaching the lid in between) until you've run a decent amount of clean fluid through each line. With old cars and DOT 3 fluid, you want to flush out the brake fluid fairly regularly, and even then, be prepared for an occasional leaking wheel cylinder. Check your brake fluid regularly as you would your oil. I just had to replace a right rear wheel cylinder on my '65 Skylark last fall, and I had replaced it once 15 years ago.

    Some guys switch to DOT 5, but I think that's a pain since you have to get all traces of DOT 3 out of the braking system. I'd certainly do a lot of research before I did that. I've stuck with DOT 3 on my whole fleet, but I bought my '63 T-Bird with the DOT 5 conversion.

    It's a good idea to flush out the cooling system; I drain the radiator with a warmed up engine (either remove the cap cold or be extremely careful not to scald yourself...give it time to cool off a little if the engine's hot). I start the engine and let the radiator drain as I add distilled water until the radiator is draining clean. Have the heater on full blast here. Once it's clean, I let the whole radiator drain and I add conventional green antifreeze straight up to fill the radiator. Since the block is full of water, the straight antifreeze will put you at around 50/50, but test it when you're done and have run the engine for a few days.

    Regarding the fuel, I wouldn't drain the tank unless it's been running badly. You may just want to regularly check and replace the fuel filter to see if any sediment is crudding it up. My '74 Firebird seemed to have sat for years, but someone at some point replaced the fuel tank, and it was clean as can be when I bought it. I had to pull the sender to do a repair.

    Anyway, good luck! '65 Skylarks are great cars, and you can't beat them for nice classic drivers. I bought mine in 2003 when I was 26, and I've put about 40,000 miles on it since then, and I've had to do less work on it than anything else I own.
     
  7. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    I use a MityVac for the drain....thru the dipstick tube.

    Suck out the pan fluid first. The MityVac has graduated measurements on the side so
    you will know how much to put back in.

    I recommend doing this service cold for the most accurate dipstick reading.

    Suck out fluid - drop pan - replace filter - clean pan - new gasket - add fluid.....DONE
     
  8. Thank you both, great info and very helpful. I'll report back if I have any issues I need additional help with.
     
  9. I was able to siphon out the excess trans fluid and now have it below full at cold. I’m going to drive it and check it again once it’s warmed up.

    mom the antifreeze, ran it for prob 10 min and worked a good bit of air out of the system, but not long enough to get the heater blowing hot, so I’ll need to run it longer, maybe take it for a short drive. One question, the air was blowing out of the foot vent mostly, barely any air out of the dash vents. What kind of system is used to change airflow behind the dash? Is it vacuum assisted?
     
  10. Aaron65

    Aaron65 Well-Known Member

    I don't know about the HVAC system on an air conditioned model (mine doesn't have air). If it has a vacuum control, it's certainly possible a vacuum line has cracked or fallen off or one of the servos has sprung a leak. You may want to get under the dash and listen for the sounds of a vacuum leak. You may want to start another thread about that problem.

    I would also suggest buying a factory shop manual and body manual for your car; I buy one every time I get a car. Don't bother with anything but the factory shop manual; the others have some good info in them, but the factory manual has just about everything.
     
  11. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Gramma parked the '64 in 1980, and died. After the repower job it was running poorly on a new engine. First was a new carb on the rebuilt engine, then a fuel pump. Dropped the tank and then decided to replace that and the sender; plus all the fuel and brake lines with a double master cylinder for safety sake. The wheel cylinders also began leaking after their first use in 40 years. Now, as they say: Confidence is HIGH. ws

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