Well, I located a reman ST 300 12" s/p converter today. Buddy of mine that runs a local tranny shop got it for me. Now its time to send it out to get built. Most I have talked to have highly recommended TSP for the build. I also was going to have him convert my current TH400 to S/P since its built well with the upgraded sprag already. Should any decent tranny shop be able to do the conversion?? How do I ID if my current 400 can be converted to s/p?? I saw two places that sold the parts to convert. They are PAE and CK performance. There is quite a bit of difference in price. PAE wants $295 and CK wants $180. Anyone have any ifo between the two?? Thanks!
All TH400 can be converted. Jim Burek at PAE has been building them for years....10-15 at least if not longer. Contact him and see what he says.
George, I plan to call too call him again. I only thing that concerns me is the huge difference in stall between high and low(4000/1400). From talking with a few people about this the only way its possible is to lose a ton of efficency. Also I read that the TSP converter had funace brazed fins and everyone else is mig welded. Anyone else have any opinions??
The Sp conversion is not complicated and can be made from removing a front pump from any Buick Olds Caddy tranny from 65 thru 67 transmissions. Just make sure the parts are in good shape. Don't forget to check the solenoid to see if it works. Once you have removed the front pump and exposed the innards, you willl notice around the circumference of the inside case oil passage holes. At the 7:00 clock position is the passage that needs a restrictor orifice with a .030" hole. (Without it the switch pitch will not work) Some volume tranny shops may not be aware of this modification. Install the SP front pump , carefully routing the SP solenoid wire to the kick down connector . Get a double prong if yours is not. Most tranny shops that do 400's have these as replacements as the regular 400's used 2 prong jobs in 70 & 71's for an emission purposes. Get you favourite SP convertor. I've used v6 ones on lower perf motors with success. Don't be afraid of a 1400-4000 PAE high stall. The whole idea is to get a nice launch and then switch to low stall for efficient driving. Even GM's factory set up had these in low stall for a better launch switching to low stall for efficiency driving. PAE/Poston does modify them nicely & my 4000 has lasted for over 10 years behind 4 different trannys. No Experience with TSP. I'm sure their product is ok, just a lower stall. Now run the same 4000 original one behind my Bulldog head motor that is upwards of 650 Hp. I have no hesitation s in going to the 5000 unit. I prefer to work it manually on the street with a momentary switch on the console shifter. (Hurst Roll Control style) Truly dual purpose if you're a street strip guy.
The most important thing is what is the goal for the car? If you are planning to go to the track and run 11s, a 4000 stall may not be too much. If it will be a street car, then, yes, 4000 high stall is way too much. I think either TSP or PAE can build a converter to your specs.
Thanks guys for the replys! Helps a bunch trying to decide what way I want to go! The only thing that keep me away from the TSP converter is the 3200 on high stall. I figure it will only get me maybe 3000 behind my 408 sbc. Now with the 4000 I will probably get 3700-3800 out of it. My current 10" flashes to 3800. Again thanks for all the info! Oh yeah... Goals for the car is to run 11.9's on motor with high 1.6 60 foots. Then be able to chill on the street or do the hotrod power tour without slipping issues on the highway.... :TU:
The Car in my Sig is running PAE's 3000 Stall. It stalls to 3200. Car is a kitty cat on the street thanks to the converter / tranny. You would never know it was that fast just putting around in it.
has anyone had success using the 12 inch from an st300 in place of the 13 inch from the th400? i have a 67 skylark i am scrapping and might try installing its converter in myh gs for kicks.
Joe I have a low 12 sec combo that I have ran a stock 12 inch SW out of a 300 for 20 years without a problem. It has seen hundards of 1/4 mile passes and in the early years was street driven. Jim at TSP did one for me from a 12 inch core that I took to him, but have not put it in, still using the stock one. If you are going to have one done I would recommend TSP. Thanks Bill.
thanks for the advice, sounds like a nice free mod. i have a spare 300 also that i can send to Jim once i have my combination figured out, right now i'm practically stock.
Would you know which way the fluid flows in the hole marked in red? Does the flluid flow from the pump into the hole or from the hole back into the pump? Reason is my tranny guy is asking which way to install the restrictor? DOes it matter?
Well, i have found out if the plug is facing with the flat end towards the pump it could push forward angainst the pump and maybe not work. MY tranny guy installed it this way i found out. So i am not sure if its going to work now!:eek2:
I'm going to the N.E. club holiday party tonight. Mark Deconti (Our resident trans expert) will be there. I'll ask him.
Norbs, Just asked Mark. He told me it doesn't matter which way the plug goes in as long as the orifice size is correct. He normally installs them open side out and stakes them in. hope that helps.
i have no clue? why would you want a resrictor to begin with?isnt the flow supposed to cool the trans & not the converter?o No:isnt more fluid flowing better? educate me:Brow:btw,whats "flash point" mean?ive never drivin a car with a high stall converter,but i put one in my caligs,3500 "stall"whats that?what happens,does it all of a sudden grab at that rpm?sorry,im ignorant on trannys!
