Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by techg8, Aug 8, 2017.
and lastly with the clear
Looks great. Sure doesn't look like a home garage DIY paintjob. I would be happy with that outcome.
I am closing in on paint. I have 2 coats of epoxy on bare metal , 2 coats of 2k primer on and blocked , with another 2 coats going on , three in problem areas (was a vinyl roof, not no more), then sealer. Your pics have given me incentive to get out there and blocksand.... Jim/Rott
Body panels lined up prior to disassembly.
Laying on more primer... .
Awesome. It's a lot of work ain't it.
If there were two things I'd change about my job they would be 1) use epoxy on the bare metal instead of self etching primer. 2) reduce the clear by 1/4 or 1/2 part to get it to lay flatter.
That's cool! Get r done
Looks great Ken!
Wow. Those newer pic. Fantastic
That is not an easy color to spray. That is amazing. Impressed
Body work looks perfect
Just going through the learning process on clear. Have a friend that used to teach auto body class at local college. He told me that the paint manufactures do not tell you to reduce clear because it makes the VOC's higher. He said do 10 to 20% reducer depending on air temp.
Just curious, would you mind sharing with us the cost of your final paint materials? I'm speaking of base and clear coats.
I called Southern Polyurethanes for advice on amount of material that I would need for my project. I was advised to get 6 qts of base, which reduced doubles to 12 qts of sprayable material,
and 2 , 1 gallon kits of clear which is also 1:1 and will yield 4 gallons of clear. I am painting the underside of my hood . He mentioned it was a good idea to have some material left over for matching down the road if need arises. Do these amounts seem excessive? Jim/Rott
PPG shopline base and clear
1 gallon base w 1 gallon reducer 1:1 used about 2/3 of it in 5 coats
1 gallon clear with 1 quart activator 4:1 used about 2/3 of it in 2 coats
It cost me about $430 if I remember right
Well , it seems I'll have more than enough.
I will be doing the undersides of both the trunk ,hood and I am getting another fiberglass hood after BG , which is also going to be painted. I plan on painting my lower dash and steering column , as well as sport mirrors and rear spoiler. Jim
That's what I generally get for a true all over with jambs. I don't get that much base most the time but only because I have probably 55gallons of leftover different base to make a ground coat that's close
Thanks for the replies, appreciated. Ethan, I think it's a good idea for me to have too much , especially since I am painting jambs n all, with an additional hood thrown in the mix, than to have just enough. Bear in mind, I don't have your experience painting automobiles. I do have experience doing industrial paint spraying, so I am hoping for the best. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Tech8, nice looking paint there....Jim/Rott
Here is another question for the experts....
I am considering my options with my clearcoat. Its got sufficient orangepeel that I will want to address it.
Is wetsand and buff the right answer, the only answer, or could I sand it and lay another, more reduced coat or two of clear?
I am outside the recoat window so I think I know the answer, but what would be the downside of such a thing? Lack of adhesion?
I've done several two-coat clear jobs and never had an issue with burning through to paint.
Wow, your car is looking good...
With 2 coats of un-reduced clear, I imagine your clearcoat would be thick nuff to wetsand then buff. If you had reduced it , it would be several mils thinner and you would have needed to go with more than two coats. Most production bodywork only uses 2 coats of clear. But I'm not a paint expert, I just play one in my garage........ JIM/ROTT
Here's my suggestion let it dry for a couple weeks, then sand with 800. Nice long strokes this will do a few things
1.it's going to level the finish/body work/blocking lines etc even more
2. It will give time for most any shrinkage that's going to happen to happen and can be addressed
3. The clear is going to lay WAY smoother, which may get it to where you don't feel buffing is nessecery. It will also be a much cleaner job IE less dirt.
4. You will be adding needed film thickness that will promote it longevity
5. CUTTING AND BUFFING SUCKS AND IS MESSY.
You will need to adjust your speed,distance and psi ESPECIALLY on the first coat , it will run because the new 800 grit surface is way smoother than base coat