Sealer, base and clear advice please

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by techg8, Aug 8, 2017.

  1. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    and lastly with the clear

    20170811_172808.jpg 20170811_172818_resized.jpg 20170811_172759_resized.jpg 20170811_172747_resized.jpg
     
  2. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    Looks great. Sure doesn't look like a home garage DIY paintjob. I would be happy with that outcome.
    I am closing in on paint. I have 2 coats of epoxy on bare metal , 2 coats of 2k primer on and blocked , with another 2 coats going on , three in problem areas (was a vinyl roof, not no more), then sealer. Your pics have given me incentive to get out there and blocksand.... Jim/Rott

    Body panels lined up prior to disassembly.
    2017-08-12 16.00.17.jpg
    Laying on more primer... .
    2017-08-12 15.59.19.jpg
     
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  3. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    Awesome. It's a lot of work ain't it.

    If there were two things I'd change about my job they would be 1) use epoxy on the bare metal instead of self etching primer. 2) reduce the clear by 1/4 or 1/2 part to get it to lay flatter.
     
  4. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    That's cool! Get r done
     
  5. 2001ws6

    2001ws6 last of the v8 interceptors

    Looks great Ken!
     
  6. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    Wow. Those newer pic. Fantastic
     
  7. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    That is not an easy color to spray. That is amazing. Impressed
     
  8. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    Body work looks perfect
     
  9. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut Staff Member

    Amazing!!!
     
  10. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Just going through the learning process on clear. Have a friend that used to teach auto body class at local college. He told me that the paint manufactures do not tell you to reduce clear because it makes the VOC's higher. He said do 10 to 20% reducer depending on air temp.
     
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  11. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    100% true
     
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  12. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    Just curious, would you mind sharing with us the cost of your final paint materials? I'm speaking of base and clear coats.
    I called Southern Polyurethanes for advice on amount of material that I would need for my project. I was advised to get 6 qts of base, which reduced doubles to 12 qts of sprayable material,
    and 2 , 1 gallon kits of clear which is also 1:1 and will yield 4 gallons of clear. I am painting the underside of my hood . He mentioned it was a good idea to have some material left over for matching down the road if need arises. Do these amounts seem excessive? Jim/Rott
     
  13. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    PPG shopline base and clear

    1 gallon base w 1 gallon reducer 1:1 used about 2/3 of it in 5 coats
    1 gallon clear with 1 quart activator 4:1 used about 2/3 of it in 2 coats

    It cost me about $430 if I remember right
     
  14. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    Well , it seems I'll have more than enough.
    I will be doing the undersides of both the trunk ,hood and I am getting another fiberglass hood after BG , which is also going to be painted. I plan on painting my lower dash and steering column , as well as sport mirrors and rear spoiler. Jim
     
  15. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    That's what I generally get for a true all over with jambs. I don't get that much base most the time but only because I have probably 55gallons of leftover different base to make a ground coat that's close
     
  16. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    Thanks for the replies, appreciated. Ethan, I think it's a good idea for me to have too much , especially since I am painting jambs n all, with an additional hood thrown in the mix, than to have just enough. Bear in mind, I don't have your experience painting automobiles. I do have experience doing industrial paint spraying, so I am hoping for the best. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Tech8, nice looking paint there....Jim/Rott
     
  17. techg8

    techg8 The BS GS

    Here is another question for the experts....

    I am considering my options with my clearcoat. Its got sufficient orangepeel that I will want to address it.

    Is wetsand and buff the right answer, the only answer, or could I sand it and lay another, more reduced coat or two of clear?

    I am outside the recoat window so I think I know the answer, but what would be the downside of such a thing? Lack of adhesion?

    20170819_154434.jpg
     
  18. Smartin

    Smartin Stainless Guy Staff Member

    I've done several two-coat clear jobs and never had an issue with burning through to paint.
     
  19. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    Wow, your car is looking good...
    With 2 coats of un-reduced clear, I imagine your clearcoat would be thick nuff to wetsand then buff. If you had reduced it , it would be several mils thinner and you would have needed to go with more than two coats. Most production bodywork only uses 2 coats of clear. But I'm not a paint expert, I just play one in my garage........ JIM/ROTT
     
  20. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Here's my suggestion let it dry for a couple weeks, then sand with 800. Nice long strokes this will do a few things
    1.it's going to level the finish/body work/blocking lines etc even more
    2. It will give time for most any shrinkage that's going to happen to happen and can be addressed
    3. The clear is going to lay WAY smoother, which may get it to where you don't feel buffing is nessecery. It will also be a much cleaner job IE less dirt.
    4. You will be adding needed film thickness that will promote it longevity
    5. CUTTING AND BUFFING SUCKS AND IS MESSY.

    You will need to adjust your speed,distance and psi ESPECIALLY on the first coat , it will run because the new 800 grit surface is way smoother than base coat
    JMO
     

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