Seems like this block has been lying around with water/coolant in the cylinders. Only one looks like this plus 2 have stuck pistons. Otherwise it looks very low mileage. What are your opinions? This is the same cylinder with different lighting: Benny
I suggest getting a measurement on the depth of any pitting. Use some Scotchbrite pad to remove the corrosion. Pistons are available for up to 0.060" oversize. I'm doubtful the pits would exceed 0.030". Then decide if you want to proceed. A good machine shop will want the pistons in-hand to bore to ensure proper clearance. If you cut them first, you'll likely want to go to the next bigger size piston once they're "clean."
I would first shot blast it and have it magnafluxed and pressure tested before spending money on boring.
My 430 has had a sleeve in it for going on 23 yrs. It had the same situation with rust in a cyl. from sitting with water in it. Worried about the sleeve for a while, but it has performed fine. Been 11.30's with it.
Before you go spending money hogging that block out, I'd sonic check the casting to make sure your not cutting into a thin wall
Did take the engine apart except for pistons No. 2 and 3 wich are stuck very bad. When looking from the crank's view it looks like there is a lot of core shift on the cylinders. But I have no experience with buick blocks. And I don't have access to a sonic tester now. Is this common to see or not even worth to try to get the pistons out? No.1 is badly corroded as well. It looks like a very low mileage block. Crank looks great. So bad it has not been stored correctly. What are your opinions: Benny No. 7 Cylinder No. 5 Cylinder Lifter bores and crank (nothing cleaned):
Here is how the Sonic Check turned out. Looks like the it is shifted a bit to the "wrong" side. The pitted cylinder is No.1 outside wall. Thinnest is N0. 6 rear pin side. My build will probably never see a dragstrip and exceed 5500rpm. Is this block useable? It is not easy to find Buick cores in Switzerland or Europe. And when you do they cost a lot and you still don't know what you get.
I'm having trouble with your handwriting. Am I seeing a bunch of 0.165s, and even a 0.150 and 0.159...or are those 0.465 with a 0.450 and a 0.459? We ARE talking about thousandths of an inch, not Metric measurements...right? At .165/.150/.159, I'd be concerned, especially on the major thrust side. I think that block needs sleeves. #8 for sure. Almost certainly #1 based on pitting and the thin minor thrust wall. #3, 5 and 7 could be OK. I'm not thrilled with any of the cylinders on the right bank. If you had ready access to other blocks, I'd say that one was scrap. But you don't...so maybe sleeves are the answer given that this isn't a high-power build. Or some sleeves + a short-fill of block grout. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?th...ck-why-sonic-checking-is-so-important.171953/ In Jim's first post, the block he refused to use has thicker major thrust walls than the one you have. OTOH, yours doesn't have the paper-thin pin-side walls his does. I wanna hear what Jim has to say.
no the 0.4 numbers are on the very bottom of the cylinder wall on the pin side where the cylinders meet. you did read correct. those are thousandths of inch. Back pin side of number 6 is the thinnest. I started with the left bank and thought it's ok then I was dissapointed by the major thrust side on the right bank. Getting another block will be difficult and around here used engines go for around USD 1000 and you don't know what you get. This was an unopened engine that came with a TH400 OW trans. I paid 1000 swiss francs for it. Shipping a block from the US would be shipping cost horror as well... The rest of the engine and all the bearings do look very low mileage. I'd like to have Jim's opinion too
When doing the sonic check, it's important to measure the bottom of the cylinder while still in the water jacket.. your bottom measurement will be about 1.5" from the bottom of the bore. No Buick engine has a cylinder wall, in the water jacket, that will measure above .350.. and most are at .300 or below. So we have to discard the bottom sets of readings. Those were taken outside of the water jacket. That being said, considering the thin thrust side on the passenger bank, and the physical condition of the cylinders, I would be wary of any more than just a stock build on that one. I understand that is is hard find any 455 Buick across the pond, in any condition, and then they are expensive, which is why most of my overseas customers have elected to have me supply the cores, and ship them a complete engine. Sorry Benny, I know that is not what you want to hear. But better to find that out now, than to build it, have a cylinder wall crack, and then have to get back into it, hopefully being able to sleeve it. JW
Consider contacting Jim for a usable block--one he's sonic tested, maybe with all machine work done. The shipping will, of course, be horrible as you said. At least you'd be sure of getting a suitable block to install the crank and other parts into. If the other bores in your block are in good condition, and you feel lucky, perhaps a short-fill of cement, then sleeve in #1 and #8, hone the others without removing too much material (will they clean up???) The more you bore, the more sleeves you'll need. Or you get into games where the bores are moved to favor the thick cylinder wall which can work but "just feels evil". You need more guidance than I can supply.
