http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7963586884&category=33564 I think they're pretty cool, but beware the ricer connection to these kind of products. How about some white letter tires, 255-15-55 to lower it a bit, these rotors, and some fat numbers on the side of the car... :Brow: Dream on..
How well do slotted and drilled rotors REALLY work, and what do they do to brake pad life? If they really are significantly better, I'd be interested in a pair, I'm tired of warped rotors. That's not a bad deal, considering AutoZone's good rotors would be $35 each, and their Baer (AutoZone sells Baer brakes???) drilled and slotted rotors would be $255.99. :spank:
Wow those are cool:beer I just bought nice new shiney rotors for $25 each, so I'mnot paying that much..
Oh yes you will :grin: d r i l l e d mmmm.... for the Centurion.... mmmm.. I think they're pretty cool too. My car just had the front brakes done before I got it, so I'm not really in need... but they're sooooo yummy.. How about the cam situation Adam???
1971 - 1976 RIVIERA (Without Max Trac Only) Sensors not working well with the holes in the discs.... o No: ?
Max-Trac rotors have "teeth" along the inside that the sensors read from...takes a whole 'nother part - not often listed or found in "normal" parts houses. :spank:
I found those same types of teeth on the full size 2000 chavy van we use at work when I was changing the rotors on it this winter. I assumed it was for the ABS system?o No:
Yup, there's a hall-effect sensor that picks up the 'teeth' going by and converts it to a signal for the ABS/traction control. Often, they'll get so covered in metallic brake pad dust and goo that you can't make them out.
Anybody have any experience with a non-slotted to slotted rotor swap? I'm really curious how much better they are, or if it's just marketing hype.
Less weight and better cooling. And the boy racer look, combined with 3 spoke wheels and red sprayed calipers, is also a very important touch........ ou:
If they work better, I'd take a good look at hiding them behind my Rally's. But don't worry, I ain't goin' ricer in this lifetime... :beer even though that boy racer look would just SO fit the 2NABOT! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Remember the ricerdude who painted his calipers, brake pads, and rotors white, even the friction surface? ou: :spank:
Which would only earn them the reply, "But I've found that the paint inhibits the heat transfer, and it then takes 5.3 feet longer to stop from 70mph." :Smarty: It's fun to throw meaningless info at today's youngsters and watch them scratch their heads. :Brow: :laugh:
It looks like they are not aware that Max Trac was also available on the other Buick models as well. "**EARLIER AND LATER MODELS AVAILABLE PLEASE EMAIL FOR MORE INFORMATION." I'm wondering if they really have pre-71 rotors, if they do, I'll buy a few sets!
just because it's a lil' different doesn't make it ricer heck, a lot of cars come stock with painted calipers(like the vette, to name one)! back in the day it really didn't matter seeing as how you couldn't see the drum or caliper painted behind the steel wheels....now painted drums, that would be ricer(especially if it's a nice purple to match the paint) :laugh: as far as the rotors, the holes and slots definetly help with cooling, more so with the drilled rotors. They used to have a reputation for cracking, but you don't hear too much of that anymore(smaller holes, better placement, better metallurgy). just do brand research if you end up getting some, i'm guessing a lot of joe shmoes are out there with a drill creating "high performance" rotors...... josh
I did a front brake job about six months ago. I thought the groove in the disc was ground in by the brake pad rivets. It turns out Buick put the groove there to vent brake dust and help prevent heat build up. Almost trashed them till I logged in here. I'm keeping them.
