Reviews for RobbMc Starters

Any opinions out there? Anyone have one fail? Seems that the one model fits all Buick V8s!

 

I can't vouch for his starters, but I've used multiple other products from robbmc and they've all been fantastic. I wouldn't hesitate to use his starter.

 

I run the Robb Mc starter and mechanical fuel pump, been very pleased with both products.

 

The mini starter in my Buchev is from Tom Telesco and it's been in there ever since I installed the engine ten years ago. It works perfectly.

 

Hi John - I think Tom's only fits the nailheads

 

Thanks all - it does look like a nice product! Here's one that scares me!

https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...-jeep-mini-starter-long-short-mt-sdr0059.html

$50! Brand new! Fits everything! WoW! Anyone take a chance on that???

 

That's all I use on our stuff parts store LT1 starters work just fine , with a lifetime warranty

 

So the 11 tooth pinion works on the oem Buick flywheel? Interesting!

 

Long as it's for a LT1/LT4 your good, the LT4 is more $ and a Hitachi style

 

That is the one I have on my car. 6 years for me and the last owner bought it in 2009. Works great, but I only run about 10:1 compression..

 

Lots of the big block Ford guys swear by the DB starters, and we're talking 550+ cubes with 13:1 compression engines.

 

Wow - $50 for a GR starter - sweet! Nice to know! Thanks for the feedback!

 

Summit lists a high-torque mini starter for a later (not Nailhead) Buick V8. It's a bit more then $50 however.

 

Finally a Follow-up: First let me say that this starter is NOT plug and play. If that is what you desire then this is not for you! I was very impressed with the customer service from Robb, the starter build quality, and look forward to years of service from the starter. I would buy it again.

Some background - The starter in my 1967 Special Wagon 340/4 was acting up. I decided to replace it with a new starter. After some research and inputs from this site (see above) I decided on the RobbMc mini starter. This is not an inexpensive approach, but RobbMc says it fits all the engines from 300 to 455 so I felt justified as I could swap it into another motor. I did find that Robb has a garage sale section on his site which has “open box” or blemished units at a discount, so I picked up one of those. I also order the nose cone, why not? The starter was shipped quickly - no issues.

The starter comes with some parts which I used. The factory wiring needs to be changed as there is no separate “start” (R) terminal on the solenoid. For this you must splice in a diode (provided) in the wire from the ignition start position. The directions are very clear and straightforward so you should not have any issues. Also provided are new terminals for the wiring which I chose not to use. I simply (and carefully) drilled out the factory terminals to fit the slightly larger lugs.


Next I test fitted the starter. The website says it fits, but does it? On my 340 the block curves out slightly and interfered with the mounting block. I called Robb and sent him pictures. Our solution was to simply file off enough material on the mounting block to allow the started to fit. This was easy as the mounting block is aluminum and the there was only slight interference. With that done the starter mounted up to the block. You must use OEM style starter bolts with this starter. Torque the bolts.



There are two measurements to take. The first is the depth for the starter gear. Again, the instructions are clear and the process is straightforward. The only issue I found is that if you order the nose piece the process is tricky. You have to use a small screwdriver to force the gear to engage with the ring gear. You may need to turn the ring gear a bit to get the gear to line up with the ring gear. I found that there is a small pin on the starter gear and I could reach it with an awl. The nose piece makes reaching the starter gear difficult so you have to improvise! I had to gently pull the gear out with the awl and turn the flexplate with the screwdriver. I found my end gap was inadequate and needed to add a shim, which is included with the starter.


Next you need to measure the clearance between the starter gear and the ring gear, or backlash. Again the nose cone makes it impossible to do without some improvising. I ended up buying a cheap set of gages and breaking off a piece of the minimum gage size and using a small vise grip to insert it between the teeth. This should be a common process for all starters, but I would like to see how others do it! My guess is that most folks do it by the sound of the cranking.




This starter features a solenoid that can be adjusted to clear headers and exhaust pipes. You loosen the set screws and rotate it to where you want it. This is very easy.



The next step is to connect the wires and test it. Listen to the sound when it’s cranking and adjust the shims as needed. The Robbmc starter uses standard shims and you add them in the usual way. Torque the bolts.


My car still has the single exhaust with the crossover pipe which passes directly over the mounting bolts. PITA. I look forward to the BBB and headers!


After you replace the flywheel inspection cover you will find the hole for the starter is too big because of the small size of the Robbmc starter. You can leave it, or make a cover for it to keep road debris out.



I was very impressed with the customer service from Robb, the starter build quality, and look forward to years of service from the starter. I would buy it again.