removing thermo-vacuum tree

When I cleaned and removed all the stuff that was in the intake manifold on my 350 rebuild I was unable to remove the thermo-vacuum tree even with a 3/4" inch drive long handled breaker with a small section of 'cheater' pipe. At the time it seemed I could leave it in and not use it as there were other passages into water jackets that would accommodate the temp. sending unit and heater hose plus another spot for the EFI temp sending unit. Now I find that I need one more place for the temp. sensor for the electric fan. The manifold is in place and everything nearly ready for the first start. Should I risk using my impact tool to try and remove the tree or is there a chance the manifold could crack? Another scenario might be that the sensor could break off and leave me with the option of digging/drilling all the mess out? I had to drill out broken bolts in the heads for a/c, alt, ps pump brackets so I realize it is possible if not onerous. Please advise ............ thanks in advance.

Lane

 

Thanks Jason. I'll try that ....

 

I wanted to pull the rear pipe plug on the driver's side head of my nailhead to put in a coolant temp gage sender, as the EFI was using the front.

The plug uses the internal wrenching square head and it looked like it was never removed since day one.

I "tested" it with the breaker bar, and could see the drive was deforming the inside of the plug, so I stopped.

I applied kroil a few times a day for two days, heated it up, and was able to break it loose with a 3/8' drive adapter on a 1/2" breaker bar with very little effort.

Heat breaks both the chemical bond of corrosion and also physically. Do not be afraid to grab a "hot wrench".

 

Thanks Michael ........... good old kroil the lifesaver ............ will do kroil for a few days, then heat .......... then boom!

 

I can tell you from here that the Kroil was a waste of time, money, effort, and enthusiasm. The heat is what helped.

The pipe plug is taper-threaded. It seals via thread deformation, and by "stretching" the casting it goes into. It's a gas-tight seal; and obviously liquid-tight since coolant wasn't leaking out. Therefore, no liquid is going to penetrate into the threads. It will all run off or evaporate. Penetrating oil does nothing useful on pipe thread.

Heat, on the other hand, is a Godsend. Heat the PLUG, not the casting it screws into, for best results.

For the record, DO NOT use regular ratchet square-drives, or extensions on pipe plugs that happen to have a 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" or 1" female-square wrenching surface. The ratchet, breaker bar, or extension will be drilled for a spring-ball or spring-pin socket retainer. The tool is weak at that drilling, and they'll twist off. Use a dedicated square-drive pipe plug tool instead--hardened steel, not drilled for socket retention.

For example, a 1/2" male square tool for 1/2" female square plugs:
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Pip...AE-1/2"-Male-Square-Drain-Plug-Socket/PPM516A

 

This is really informative - and helpful. The heat made the difference for sure. It came right off.

 

What I've been doing for years. I heat whatever needs to be taken out. It needs to be hot, BUT NOT red hot. Then take a candle & melt the wax from the candle around the plug or what you need to be removed. If you can get whatever it is your trying to get out & try to have it level & let the wax pool up around the affected plug. Let it cool completely. While it's cooling the wax is being drawn into & wicking around the threads. Next day go out & you can just about remove it with your fingers.
Works especially well on oil galley plugs on SBC & others.

 

Penetrating oil Definately helps. Soaking it in penetrating oil then Heating the frozen bolt /nut draws the oil into the threads which aids in removal.

 

Try heating without using the wax or the penetrating oil. I bet you have the same results, at least on pipe thread. Bolt thread isn't tapered, there's a fair chance the oil or wax can wick in.

 

I love this rich education on all things related to working on the stuff we work on ........ this is the best forum! Thanks