Recommendations for suspension and brakes

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Psilent Child, Apr 2, 2017.

  1. Psilent Child

    Psilent Child Well-Known Member

    I have a 71 skylark. I was thinking about doing a coil over shock suspension and conversion kit for the brakes. What you guys have for suspension and brakes? Do you just fix up what you already have or did you do any upgrades?
     
  2. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    What kind of driving do you plan on doing will determine what kind of upgrades you should get. Let us know a little more about how you want to use the car and you'll get great advise on what upgrades to do.

    The above would help to advise you on what engine upgrades to get as well.



    Derek
     
  3. Psilent Child

    Psilent Child Well-Known Member

    I will be driving it back and forth to work 5 days a week. Depending on traffic it takes 25-60 minutes to get to work. I will also use it to go out to eat with the wife and kids on the weekend. I have a truck now that me and my wife both use. I'm going to let her use my truck and I will drive the skylark. Any other information needed?
     
  4. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    For a daily driver type vehicle going with a coilover suspension is a bit much I would think?

    All you would really need for that type of driving would be to upgrade your rear 4 link suspension and install some good sway bars and maybe up front a set of aftermarket control arms with drop spindles to correct the steering geometry.

    Out back if you're any good at welding you could get the box kits for your factory control arms and replace the bushings yourself or get aftermarket ones ready to bolt in. I like the adjustable upper rear control arms with a set of aftermarket lowers with the sway bar holes ready to install the sway arm. Then gat the springs that gives you the stance you want. Buying the aftermarket rear control arms, the bushings are usually already installed, I like the polygraphite bushings over the polyurethane ones because they are quieter.

    Even a beginner can redo the rear suspension, just jack the car up from the center of the rear end(the pig) and setup jack stands on the frame. Remove shocks and lower the jack and ta da the springs will come out without hassle.The front springs are a different story and you should probably seek professional help replacing those. But replacing the front sway bar and sway bar bushings and links are a very simple job to do.

    You can replace the rear control arms one at a time using your jack to support your rear end and to help position it for the reinstall of each arm. Easy peasy! After all arms are in and new rear sway bar is installed you need to reposition the jack under the pig and start lifting the rear end until you can set your new springs in and then lift some more until you can bolt the shocks back on, done after shocks are bolted on.(just make sure the springs end up in their pockets and you're good to go)

    When you buy shocks, get gas charged shocks for a smoother ride, the old style oil filled shocks that came on these cars back in the day just don't ride that good IMO. Just get the gas charged replacement shocks for what you want will be great.

    The shop doing your brake work, you can have them do your drop spindles and whatever front suspension upgrades you want like the control arms and springs if you want aftermarket up front, you can install the sway bar yourself. Or up front will need new bushing on the factory front control arms if you stick with them. check pricing of having bushings installed vs getting the new control arms that already have new bushings and of coarse having those installed.

    Doing the rear suspension and front sway bar yourself will save you a bunch of $$ for upgrades in other areas like the drivetrain for example, rear gears, trans and engine. An overdrive would be a great addition for a daily driver, like a 200R4 or a 700R4.

    Looks like a fun project, wish you lived closer, I would come over and lend a hand.



    Derek
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2017
  5. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Here is the link for the performance drum brake shoes;

    http://musclecarbrakes.com/index.html

    They claim 2 to 1 better stopping than over the counter brake shoes! That sounds like twice as good, wonder why they just didn't say twice as good?



    Derek
     
  6. Ken Adams

    Ken Adams Well-Known Member

    pm sent regarding brakes
     
  7. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    Since you don't have anything yet,now is the time to upgrade all of the suspension to the 21st century. Better handling,better braking,better ride. What are you running for wheels?
     
  8. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I've done this twice (see my profile pic) and I can highly recommend using a front tubular upper with extra positive caster, Proforged tall upper ball joints (lowers are available as well to lower the car 1/2"), front discs (factory is pretty good) and a more aggressive front end alignment with as much positive caster as they can safely give you with about -1° camber. It won't drive like the same car.

    A Trans Am 1.25" swaybar from 70-81 will bolt right on as well. A quick ratio steering box is readily available to snug up the lock to lock for the final piece to the front end.

    The rear, as was mentioned, is a lot easier. Springs and shocks for all of our Chevy brethren are plentiful. Box the lower control arms, add a rear sway bar and put on some healthy tires and you are ready to go.
     
  9. Premier 350

    Premier 350 Chris (aka Webby)

    My '69 Skylark is my hobby car, not my DD. Even so, I've improved the handing with tall upper ball joints, offset upper shafts, Koni shocks and a 1.25" sway bar, and one of Hectors steering boxes, and a disc front conversion. 15" wheels. Replaced all the bushes Not sure how much camber & castor I'm running, need to check that.
    On the rear, factory style sway bar- off a Cutlass I'm told, and replaced the bushes. Springs and rear shocks to come. I've read here that not all tubular front arms offer improved front end geometry. I've never used them, so I can't comment either way. My gut feeling is that for DD use, you don't need tubular arms. I'd use the stock ones, if they're OK.
     
  10. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    The easy way to tell if the tubular control arm improves caster is to sit it on top of the stock arm and see if the ball joint hole lines up or is moved rearward. They are cheap and give you a good bit of positive caster without stacking a ton of shims in the rear mount.

    IMG-20110620-00082.jpg
     

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