Well.. the rocker tip was sent from TA yesterday. No idea when it will get here. reports I have read on the internet say people have had letters arrive within 5 days, some say taken 6 weeks for a book to arrive... Can't believe it's all stopped due to a $4 dollar part! so tempted to get some weld on that tip and ground it down... :/ but at the same time I want to do it properly...
If you shim it with a hardened washer, it should last until your new parts arrive. Or what about my lash cap idea? You do know what a lash cap is don't you? A lash cap is a small cap that fits on the end of the valve stem to keep it from wearing. One of those should add the thickness you need, you can even make your own on your lathe.
I might go the washer route for now... yes the lash cap, I know what that is, similar to what you have on some inline 4 engines, where it sits on the top of the valve and underneath there's a shim (between cap and valve) to give the desired clearance. The lash cap would also be a good solution if I make it on the lathe, I'll have a think about it. But reckon the washer route sounds like a good one. I'm guessing those tips on the rocker arm end are just a press fit? should be able to knock it out with a drift from the other end, add some washers and then press it back in right?
Oh and another thing I noticed is I don't have a thermostat! the engine never had one before, no wonder the temperature never got anywhere near 190.... Need to buy one for it... another thing to try and find over here! lucky me! I'm guessing it's supposed to have one? at the water inlet on the intake?
So strange how there wasn't one in there! Luckily, one of the shops over here has one! and even the gasket! so I have just ordered it.
Only one washer of the right thickness, not a bunch. Or...lathe the valve lash cap. Just make sure it doesn't push on your retainer and get your locks flying out!
right, one washer! actually what I might do tomorrow, before putting the intake back in, is turn the cam till that slack pushrod is right at the bottom, then measure the gap between the rocker and valve and make a washer the exact thickness on the lathe... that's probably easier than trying to find a washer that fits properly...
Nope, gotta be .025-.030 more than the gap so you will have that much pre-load..... Otherwise you will still have clicking noise.
Tell you what....I have this set, $60 plus shipping to your buddy in the states. He can bring them to you when he visits. One set still could use cleanup. New replacements are $176.
wow! thanks for the offer, but does that set oil through the rocker shaft? isn't that one for the model that oils through the pushrods?
thanks for your offer though, it's very kind! Took my little girl down the workshop today, I wish you guys could see the smile on her face when she saw the truck had moved to the front and the engine was in and nice and shiny! cannot wait till we are out in it again
That's nice! You can change your avatar to that nice shiny new engine! You put a lot of effort into it!
nothing has happened this weekend as I have my little girl with me, but I did go to the workshop and rotate the cam, measured the gap, can fit a 0.025 gauge in the gap...and I did find a washer that is 0.055. That puts me right on the +0.030 preload, so should be alright? Also, left the intake off for now, going to fit the washer (if this one is ok) and then rotate it all to make sure there's no more surprises.
Every rocker tip should be pre-loading the lifters on base circle of cam, otherwise you will have clacking sound. They are hydraulics not solids. In your case, any pre-load at least .015 to .030 would work. You mentioned valve tips were straight (even) across the tips. That washer should have an i.d. somewhat snug to the insert stem. You're almost finished.....
Surprinsingly the tip wasn't difficult to come off! I thought that thing was pressed in there really hard, so was ready with a punch and big hammer, but a litte tap and it came off. Put the washer in there, ID is not the same though, slightly larger, couldn't find one with the correct ID. I've put loctite in there as well.... but knowing my luck the actual tips will turn up the day after I start the engine! hahaha On the pre-load subject I have a question.... So, preload on the lifter should be 0.025-0.030. If I look at any other valve, and the lifter is on the cam flat, and there's no gap between rocker and valve tip... how do I know about the preload? How to I know how much is that pushrod pushing into the lifter? On the one that is wrong is easy to figure it out, the gap+the pre load value and voila, sorted.
