Rear upper control arm bushings

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Bearchillz, Feb 21, 2016.

  1. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    Is there any way to get them out (and in) that is Not a gigantic pain in the ass?
    Talking about the ones on the axel.

    And before anyone says ball joint press.. No! That absolutely does not work! I have no idea why so many people say it does.
    I rented one from autozone because mechanic buddies and previous threads here told me that's how you do it.
    It doesn't fit. I can't understand how this has worked for other people.

    I'm sure you all know what this stuff looks like, but just for posterity I attached a photo of the press and the bushings everyone has said it works to remove/install.

    I don't know if you can tell from the photo, but the reason that press does Not work on this application is because directly behind the bushing is the bulge of the differential housing. The angle makes it impossible to line up the press because the piece that presses Literally does not fit behind the bushing.

    Taking off the arms, shock and spring was practically nothing in comparison. Would've probably been maybe little more than an hour if I had already had the impact wrench that I went to harbor freight to get.
    But that bushing.. Dear god..
    After way to long trying to bend the rules of physics making the press work, I ditched it and drilled holes in the bushing until I could tear it out.
    Then I spent the remaining 6 hours of my day smashing that stupid bushing housing with a hammer and cold chisel until I finally got it out.
    Once I finally got it out, I did prep to install the new one. Started beating it in with a hammer on a piece of wood, it got half way in and won't budge any further.


    I'm going at it again in the morning. Any input? Anybody?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. srb

    srb Well-Known Member

    I drilled the rubber out and deformed the outer steel part with a chisel. Then I was able to remove it quite easily.
    As for mounting, I tried to use a press, but had the same issue you have. I lubed the new bushing, put a big socket against the bushing and hammered it in with a sledgehammer. That went ok.
     
  3. john.schaefer77

    john.schaefer77 Well-Known Member

  4. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    I use an air chisel
     
  5. afracer

    afracer Well-Known Member

    I burnt the rubber out by lighting on fire, then the shell came out super easy. Replaced with pillow balls.
     
  6. GS Spoken Here

    GS Spoken Here Well-Known Member

    Use a hack saw to cut across the bushing shell and then peal it out. Remove the blade and put it through the bushing shell, re-attach the blade and cut through being care full not to cut into the rear end tab. Use a cut off saw to cut the lip, then chisel or air hammer the shell out, after bending cut areas in to loosen the shell.

    For the install, put the new bushings in the freeze for a day and clean the rear end tab, may need to emery and remove burrs. I use a large pipe nipple to drive the new one in.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2016
  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/, click products, then look under tools.


    Control Arm Bushing Tool http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/images/tools/bushingtooloutinsm.jpg

    This Bushing Tool (Part #0599) is designed to remove AND install the bushings into the top ears on the rearend housing. This tool is made to fit GM housings, and may fit others as well. The design includes a roller bearing thrust washer for ease of use and long life. The Bushing Tool is also plated for rust prevention and appearance. The Tool PULLS the bushing out and also PULLS it into the ears, and does this in under 2 minutes with an air ratchet. Ask anyone that has done this the hard way, and they will tell you this tool is a life saver. Hours of aggravation can be avoided with this new tool. Some generic pullers with adapters to fit (hopefully) your application are over $400! Our tool is designed specifically to work on GM rearend housings for sure, and possibly others as well.

    Also, fill out your profile to include your location. Help might be right around the corner. If you lived near me, I would gladly lend you the tool.
     
  8. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    I drilled out the rubber and then its easy to get the old one out.

    As far as putting the new one in I used a piece of threaded rod and made a bushing press up using 2 large 3/4 inch sockets. Lubed the sleeve and used wrenches to press the bushing in. This way you can always reposition the tool any time you feel like you need to.

    I would shy away from smacking it in with a sledge. One wrong move and you break the eye off that the bushing goes in.
     
  9. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    That looks like a tool that could really help me out. Unfortunately, I'm in FL, a little more than just around the block from you.
     
  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    We have over 38,000 members worldwide. Maybe someone in Florida has the tool. If you list your location in the profile, it will come up every time you post, like mine does, Oakland Gardens, NY.
     
  11. Mr. Sunset

    Mr. Sunset Platinum Level Contributor

    [​IMG]I used one of these, penetrating oil prior and let it work for a bit
    don't swing a hammer at those ears. :TU:
     
  12. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    I really don't understand how that tool worked for you on those ears. It is physically impossible to line up and have it actually lock down.
     
  13. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    So, there's one guy saying he did it the way I am, and the rest of you are saying Don't smack it with a hammer..

    I certainly don't want to break the ears, but hammering is kind of my only course of action. Even if I were able to scrape enough pennies together for that tool, I can't be laid up for weeks not getting any work done on this while I wait for it.. I mean, it's pretty thick tough metal, it should be able to take a beating.
    If I could jerry-rig a tool together like some of you guys seemed to, I'd do that. But this kind of work is new to me and I can't really picture how you put those things together
     
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    If you drill out the rubber part of the bushing, you can collapse the metal shell and get the bushings out. It is very time consuming, but doable. I would absolutely not smack those ears with a hammer.
     
  15. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    Is there a specific forum where I can ask if there is anyone near me who can loan the tool, or do I just hope they see this thread?
    I think I can barely afford the tool, so I Really wouldn't be able to afford a broken ear..
    I guess my only option is to wait for the right tool. I just hate having to be hung up on one simple thing for probably weeks, and not be able to get anything else done
     
  16. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    Is there any way you could show me a picture of the press you made?
     
  17. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    This is a quick mock-up of what I am talking about. This is a piece of 5/8 threaded rod . 7/16 or 1/2 inch would be good enough . The one socket would go on the ear of the rear and it has to be large enough that the bushing will be able to slide inside it. You can put flat washers between the socket and the nuts . You can use grease between the nut and the flat washer.

    The other socket would go over the bushing and be appx. the same size as the ring of the bushing .

    Once you get it lined up you can use a wrench on the nut of the threaded rod to push the bushing in.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Bearchillz

    Bearchillz Well-Known Member

    Okay, I see what you mean now.
    But I still don't understand how you can get either of those big sockets, or these cups with the ball joint press, to fit, straight, behind the bushing over the bulge of the differential housing...
     
  19. UticaGeoff

    UticaGeoff Well-Known Member

    Send a pm to Wheelz - he's in Tampa and usually is willing to help anyone. I can't speak for him. I'm in Palm Harbor till April, but have no experience with doing this, let alone tools with me.

    UticaGeoff
     
  20. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    Looks like it will work for installing, maybe removal on right side, but diff casing interferes with removal on left.
    I drilled mine out and collapsed the shell. PITA though, but gets job done.
     

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