Rear fuel and vapor lines with body on

Discussion in 'Chassis restoration' started by tubecatgs, Nov 15, 2017.

  1. tubecatgs

    tubecatgs Finally a 4 speed......

    I ordered a new set of fuel and vapor lines for my 72 Skylark convertible. Replacing the front longer sections wasn't that bad. However it looks near impossible to install the rear ones with the body, rear end etc on the frame. Anyone have success or tips for doing this with the pre-bent lines? Thanks
     
  2. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    It's a biatch,..if the car isn't rusty remove or loosen the body bolts and Jack up the body
     
  3. tubecatgs

    tubecatgs Finally a 4 speed......

    Ok. That might be an option. They aren't too bad but I have replaced every line on the car but those 2 rear.... those 2 new lines might sit on the shelf for a while.... :) thanks
     
  4. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    Does tossing them in the trunk count as "installation"? :p
     
  5. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Ethan is correct, its a real PITA. Been there, done that. Not fun. And if you have my luck, there is a 100% chance the body bolts are going to snap! If the lines are in good shape, Id just leave them alone. I learned a long time ago that if its not broken, don't fix it.

    The other option would be to cut the lines on one side of where it passes between the frame and body, flare both ends and use a union to reconnect them. That's if you can get the bolt off on top of the frame that hold the clamp on. Ive removed that bolt and clamp without lifting the body. Its tedious work
     
  6. 1972 Stage 1

    1972 Stage 1 Well-Known Member

    I've never attempted this but a friend of mine is asking for advise. He was able to get the 1/4" line in by bending it some, but can't get the 3/8" line in.

    Ethan/Jason - do you just remove the rear 4 and center 2 body bolts, or do you have to remove all of them prior to jacking up the rear of the body? How high should he lift it? Are there any other things to loosen or consider?

    Any first hand knowledge or tips appreciated.
     
  7. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    I replaced the body lines for brakes and fuel. (on a 1964 Skylark convertible, driver's side)

    New stainless 5/16 brake line and 3/8 fuel line.


    The fuel line was actually easier than the brake line.

    I had installed the brake line a few months prior.

    A few months later I was working and heard a "snap", and a bit later smelled fuel. (oddly, was nowhere near the fuel line or working on anything related)

    Located a pinhole in the body fuel line, and realized it was time to replace it.

    I was thinking of lifting the body, but really do not want to risk breaking the J bolts and hidden/blind caged nuts, and cutting/welding frame or any of that.
    So, I figured I would try to replace the line with body one.

    The only place the line is in/through the frame, is the front frame horn, so I figured it was very possible I could do it with success.

    When I started removing the old line, it broke into three pieces, and was very badly corroded, so good thing it happened while I was in the middle of restoration.

    The only thing I had to do was pull the transmission crossmember and the emergency brake cable and disconnect the brake line.

    To get the fuel line in, I pulled a wire through the front frame horn so I had a wire to pull the new line forward top the hole in the horn near the steering gearbox.

    Then I pulled the new line through and as far forward as I could, and that allowed me some extra "wiggle" room to get the back over the axel and into the frame/body area.

    Once that was done, I pulled the excess of the line I had pulled forward, back and seated the line into the clamps along the frame.

    There are a couple of places where the brake line and fuel line cross over each other. Make sure you note that so it is proper when you are finished.

    Take time and go slow, and it is not that hard.
     
  8. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Ethan might be able to better address which body bolts to remove. Ive never installed them that way in one piece by lifting the body. I don't think you would need that much separation though. Maybe the two rear on that side and see how much you can gain from that? Being from the northeast and the rust issues we have up here, I wouldn't touch a body bolt on a bet unless I was about to start a frame off! Too afraid of bolts snapping. Might not be an issue in Texas though. They may come right out for you.....or not:D

    What condition is the car in? Driver or show car? I take it you want to install it in one piece? Because if you strategically cut it and reconnect it with a union, you can thread it through in between the body and frame. It will save you a lot of potential headaches. Its a fuel line so you can just use a compression fitting if you don't want to flare it.
     
  9. 1972 Stage 1

    1972 Stage 1 Well-Known Member

    Thanks J. It's a Stage 1 that was a race car in the early years and has been garaged kept most it's life. I doubt he will have any bolts break, but he's a little nervous raising the body with the entire car assembled. Where did you cut the line for the splice?
     
  10. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Last time I done it I took the ones on the drive side out, up to the one under the door, and used my little port-a-power with the jaw on it used it between the frame and the floor with a piece of Oak 1x4 to distribute the load, only need 1/2in to do it , but more is better. Not really doing enough lifting to mess with the fender gaps or anything
     
  11. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    if they aren't leaking leave them alone.
     
  12. 1972 Stage 1

    1972 Stage 1 Well-Known Member

    Thanks Ethan. I’ll let him know.

    The original line was cut out back in it’s race car days, so he wants it back original with factory type lines.
     

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