Over the years I have probably broken in half a dozen street-strip BBB’s but never a Race-Only engine. What is the preferred method for break-in? Do you just run around in the pits a little or do you just burn-out, stage and then mash it? Maybe just a couple easy runs to get things seated? My main concern is getting the rings seated properly. This is pertaining to my 523 iron block in the 87 Regal. It’s basically just a refresh. New rings and bearings but everything else was reused. Same camshaft, lifters, heads, valves, rockers, pistons, rods. The only real change is the addition of the billet intake I got from RobsBuick and one of JW’s converters. As always, thanks for the help, opinions, and your time, Philip T.
Phil, I like to go thru 3 complete heat cycles, change oil, drive around the neighborhood to put a load on it to seat rings and to make sure no one is napping and re-check valve clearance and head gasket torque. Then go to track and drive around the pits some before blasting down the track usually an 1/8 mile pass first. Most of this is out the window if it was broken in and run on dyno but this is what works for me. Good luck.... Ready to go this weekend? I'll be at Mason Dixon sunday.....
Bruce I would love to be ready this weekend, but it’s gonna be all I can do to be ready for July 8th at Norwalk. If by some miracle I do get finished, then I will definitely see you at Mason Dixon!!
Hopefully all goes well to you and that get out to norwalk. I'm going to fall shirt of making it, got my motor sitting in place, but looks like no time to do anything else for awhile. We always give several 20-30 minute runs, recheck intake, heads, exhaust bolts. Check valves, street drive a few miles if possible, extended drive in the pits if possible, 1st pass half throttle off foot brake, 2nd 3/4, 3rd all out. I leave my breaking oil in till after the first race.
Your biggest concern, besides the obvious oil pressure and temp, leaks and that, will be jetting. You have changed the intake dramatically if I recall correctly, going from a conventional 4 barrel to a tunnel ram. This will change the signal to the carb, and not just a little. You must have a wideband O2 gauge on that thing. One pass with it dramatically lean, causing it to detonate, ... that's the ball game. You will be seeing the inside of that engine again, and likely very soon. Once you are properly equipped, then drive it around the pits a bit, insure that you have no leaks or issues, and then take a couple of easy passes on the engine, maintaining the A/F ratio in the 12-14 to 1 range. Get it too fat, and it may wash the rings out of it, too lean, and it may detonate and come apart. Your target A/F with a Holley, at WOT, will be low 13's, that is traditionally where they make the best power. Good luck, and have fun! JW
So what do I need, something like a Holley wideband? Is it ok to put the sensor in a collector extension, or does it need to be in the header? Thanks for the info JW!!
This is the gauge setup I use and recommend. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...=4581939832084781&utm_content=AEM+Electronics Yes, you can put it in the collector extension, just make sure you don't introduce air in front of it.. so if you have a pan evac system on it, remove that hose from the side the sensor is on, and cap the valve in the header so it does not suck fresh air.. once you establish your jetting, then you can remove the sensor, cap the bung, and hook the pan evac back up. Make sure your header gaskets and collector flange gaskets are not leaking. or, better yet, put in in the header collector in front of the pan evac valve. Then you can mount the gauge in the car permanently, and always keep an eye on your A/F ratio. JW
Jim how does this fair life wise with some of leaded fuels, always heard these sensor and some fuels don't do well together. I run an egt gauge, but been thinking of adding an o2 as well. The egt seems to be greatly effected by fuel, air, humidity, everything. I know on our last setup motor seemed happiest with readings of 1400-1425, I know that sounds crazy high, but when we added fuel to lower temp call slowed down. Plugs looked great. Didn't think of this with that combo buy I think why the readings were high was the timing could had been turned up some.....we were only at 33 and I think the fuel might had been still burning some on the way out causing the higher reading that didn't respond to adding fuel. They were located per the automates recommended distance from the head as this also can effect the temp
JW it looks like the AEM part you linked to above does not come with the actual oxygen sensor. I found that out by reading the questions posted at the bottom of the Summit part listing. Without sensor is $129.99 and with sensor is $179.99. Cheap insurance either way!! While I really do like the look of the inside of my engine, I’d much rather have to settle for looking at the pics! I forgot to mention that I am also switching from the Quick Fuel 1150 to a Pro Systems SV-1. My target A/F ratio will still be low 13’s, correct? I am so glad that I decided to ask a seemingly insignificant question! It’s things like this that make using this board and the members on it so great! Thanks again for the help and all of the info JW! It is greatly appreciated!!
Phil I hope you get enough oil return and cam lubrication with that epoxy. External valley pan drain might be a good idea to keep enough oil in pan. Jim? Did you go with a roller cam?
Bruce I would like to think there is plenty of oil returning through there. Mike Phillips originally built this motor for Brad Neff. Then Rick got it, and now it has ended up with me. I used the same cam that was already in it, and no, it’s not a roller. It’s a Comp Cams flat tappet.
