My D-1 Procharger was blowing oil into the inlet tubes. Lowest quote was $250 from superchargerrebuilds plus another $100 in shipping. Procharger estimated $300 plus whatever. So ordered the seals and went over to my transmission builder and we went through it. First off there are no directions available for doing this. Everything on the net is just about useless. But once we figured out that the impeller bolt is reverse rotation things went well. Will try to do a little write up on it soon. Total cost was $100 and that included the beer.
Well done! A beer an intelligent buddy to work with you and kick the problem in the A$$. Good times :TU:
Well done, good thing you figured out what was reverse threaded. That would have gotten expensive had you broke the bolt trying to get it out the standard way.
Everything I read on the P1sc and D1sc said it was normal. Not sure I believe that either. I think it sucks that Procharger will not sell parts or manuals. ---------- Post added at 09:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:18 PM ---------- I have heard that Procharger makes more money on rebuilds than anything else they do.
There are a few benefits to Procharger being tight lipped about parts and manuals. Some of the bigger units F2/F3 are leaned on pretty hard in some serious builds. A lot of blowers change hands in the used market and its nice that you can call Procharger with a serial # on a used blower and they will tell you when and what service was done to the blower by them. Not 100% failsafe but good piece of mind when you're dropping a couple thousand on a used blower.
If I thought anything was really wrong with my Procharger I may have sent it to them. But changing the seals is not a big deal and would have been even easier if there was a manual. Also the seals that I put in are better than the stock seals. Viton seals are so much better that what I pulled out. Maybe that's what they use now.
An upgrade here. I drove a few miles and everything is working great. No more blowing oil mist into the carb. ---------- Post added at 06:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:05 PM ---------- Rebuilding ProCharger D-1 Supercharger 1. parts are available at www.superchargerrebuild.com 2. If you are going to drive car without supercharger don't forget to cap oil line. 3. Flip the unit over so the pulley is facing you / impeller is facing down. 4. Take off the front housing [portion that covers the impeller] which is held down with either 3-6 hex bolts with washers. ⁃ you may want to mark the clocking of the cover 5. Now you want to remove the impeller bolt. It is an allen. ON A D-1 THE IMPELLER BOLT IS OPPOSITE ROTATION. TURN CLOCKWISE TO LOOSEN BOLT! If you can shock it off with impact gun great. If not we had to do it this way. ⁃ Remove your existing pulley. You may need a puller to get it off but does not take a lot of pressure to pull it off. ⁃ Once your pulley is off, you will see 6 hex bolts that go into the body that holds the two halves of the main body together. Take those off. ⁃ Now you want to take the thin flat screwdriver and place it between the two halves on the side. With a couple taps, the body will open. still with the impeller face down, you will be able to pull up the back half of the body. ⁃ Now you need a vise with aluminum jaws. Hold the opposite end of the impeller shaft in the vice and then you can get some leverage on the bolt if needed. Procharger put a lot of locktite on that bolt. 6. We then removed the impeller buy heating it up to 350 degrees. At that point is was possible to use and aluminum drift and tap the shaft out of the impeller. The temperature guns are real handy for getting the temperature correct. 7. The main seal is under the impeller and is now accessible. It is held in place with a snap ring. Pull the snap ring and you should be able to pry out the seal. Mine was hard as a rock and was just rubber as far as we could tell. The new seal is Viton and should be a lot better. We noted that the snap ring was put in backward by Prochager. 8. Keep track of the orientation of all of the bearings. On a D-1 none of the bearings have to be pressed into housings. You should be able to get the other seal out of the gearbox housing. Clean up all the parts and time to put it back together. 9. If you are replacing any bearings now is the time. 10. The seals just tap in. I also got the new o-ring and put on a new o-ring for the gear oiler. Greased up all of the seals and put the gear box back together. Don't forget the snap ring for the impeller seal. 11. Put the impeller in an oven to heat it back up to 350 degrees. If you did not find out the welding gloves are handy in step 6 they really come in handy now. Drop the spacer that goes behind the impeller on the shaft. 12. It really helps to have two people to put on the impeller. One to hold the impeller on the shaft and a second to tap it on with a brass hammer. Put on the impeller bolt and tighten. Let the impeller cool. 13. Once cool locktite the impeller bolt and and you can put on the volute. Now done and saved a couple of hundred bucks. I think the seals that superchargerrebuilds has are better than what came in the supercharger. If you are thinking about upgrading bearings DO NOT go to ceramic bearings. They are great for turbos but these superchargers put a different load on bearings. Stay with steel.
How hard was it to put a procharger on a 455? Can you post some good pics of your engine bay? I've considered this. My convertible is just tooooo slow.
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?208384-New-pictures-completed-engine-bay&highlight= http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?185358-Procharger-project-progress&highlight= ---------- Post added at 02:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:28 AM ---------- http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?208384-New-pictures-completed-engine-bay&highlight=
Update: We had to put in a new main seal. It looks like the seal got a nick in it when it was put back together. The problem is that the main shaft has a very sharp step in it. So despite how careful we were it only lasted about 50 miles due to the nick. This time we chucked the shaft in the lathe and put a very slight shoulder on the step. Went together much better and I now have a few hundred miles on it with no problems. We also found out that getting the impeller closer to 400 degrees made it much easier and faster to remove the impeller. Got smart on the removal and used a press to take the impeller off. Keep the heat on during removal and it presses off easily.
