So while my dad was in possession of my car for the last 10 years the oil drain plug stripped and required the installation of a self tapping kit with the oversized bolt with a drain plug in it. The car has been back in my possession for about a year now. Its leaking again from between the pan and oversized bolt and gets worse each oil change. I have tried changing the nylon washers in the drain plug and that didn't help. I have tried tightening the oversized bolt and that doesn't work. Its time to fix this the right way, new pan (well new old pan that don't leak). Hugger was very gracious and hooked me up with one he had, thank you again! So after many searches and reading of past threads I have deducted that to do this the right way its just easier to pull the motor. I confess I haven't done this before. I was a little intimidated about the idea of it and then I looked in the mirror and glared and said "you call yourself a car guy". So I am gonna do it, I haven't ran into something on any of my vehicles I haven't figured out. I'm no mechanic but with enough research, preparation, and taking it slow and smooth I have always gotten the job done right. My plan is this. FYI 350B with 4spd Muncie. I'm going to borrow a hoist and stand from our Motor T chief, buy a engine leveler. Remove the hood(mark location before), carb and radiator. Disconnect all wiring, hoses, fuel lines, Z-bar, GROUND STRAP, linkage. I plan on taking a picture of each thing before I remove it, and have a corresponding check list that way I can work backwards and put everything back on without forgetting. Disconnect headers from heads. Then disconnect transmission from bell housing (4 bolts). Unbolt engine mounts and slide her outs, take off the bell housing, mount engine stand to bell housing bolt holes. Then flip her on her back and install the new pan. Then work everything in reverse. The concern I have is am I missing anything on disconnecting and reconnecting the transmission? I would rather not pull the transmission from the car because it seems like more mess and more complication right now. Is it really just slide her in and out? Am I missing anything guys? Or do you think I should go about this in a different way? Thanks again for any advice.
Why take the engine out for just an oil pan change? Pretty sure you can swap pans by lifting the engine off the mounts and using a couple blocks of wood. The beauty of the 350 engine is that's its a nice flat gasket and the crank is mostly recessed in the block. So the crank doesn't get in the way as badly as a 455 crank would
Its been a long time sense I've done this with a manual trans. You'll have to remove the bell housing, pressure plate and clutch to mount it to the stand. If I remember correctly I had a pretty tough time getting it all to line back up once it was in the car. Of course it was many years ago. I was laying in a dirt driveway pressing the trans off my chest and holding it up with my knee to start the bolts. If I was to do this job today I'd either pull and install the engine / trans as a unit or change the pan with the engine in the car. If you decide to pull the engine forget about the load leveler. I have one and its more trouble than its worth. Have much better results with a carb pad engine lift plate.
I would also unbolt the trans to the crossmember, so the trans can be elevated during engine removal and reinstallation. Should have a hydraulic jack under the trans. Removing the starter should makes things easier also. Just note your starter connections. Make sure the hoist you are using will pick high enough to clear the grill support. I usually try to have the boom as tight to the engine as possible. If using a engine leveler, try to use bolt holes near the front and rear of the heads/block. Or you can remove intake bolts and connect your lift points there. Also, as you mentioned, pictures are your friend when reconnecting everything.
If you have your heart set on pulling the engine for the pan, then for sure pull the engine and trans as one unit as Briz said. I actually like the load leveler. I wouldn't pull an engine without it. But everyone has their preference. And for sure, the trans crossmember needs to come out. And unless the clutch is like brand new, plan on putting a new pressure plate, clutch throwout and pilot bushings in. No sense in having it all apart and not replacing it all while its out.
This may not be what anybody else would do but I have an oversized drain plug in my Buick 350 oil pan because the previous owner stripped it I put an oversized plug in it with a nylon washer it leaked soon as the car got hot it would drip pretty good so I use teflon tape every time after every oil change I never have a leak after that and the time I forget to put it on is the time I have a leak. I use the tape not liquid and I have done this for 6 yrs and not even a spec of oil leaks from it. Josh
Jason, I don't have my heart set on pulling the engine. Most of the threads I searched on here talked about it being less of a hassle to get it done right to just pull the motor. However I understand that most of those threads were 455 ( I know BBB guys get a little more love lol). My upmost concern is getting a new pan on and not having it leak(from drain plug or gasket). If I can do that with the engine on I would like to. While I would like to put a notch in my belt of pulling the motor, doing it in the car would save me money, and time (trying to have this done before baby gets here in July). Can you leave most of the other stuff connected if you just raise the more? Briz, can I use that carb plate on the TA Aluminum intake?
Josh, my leak is coming from between the oversized bolt and pan. I also feel like its stripped as when I tighten it, it gets to a certain point and loosens again. I just don't have confidence in it anymore and the last thing I want to do is frag the original motor.
The engine DOES NOT have to come out. Raise off mounts & put in wooden blocks to keep it there. Remove the fan shroud 1st. if you have one. NO NEED to remove ANYTHING else.
Hi, if this helps you in anyway, this is a photo of my 69 350 a few days ago. You can see the crank doesn't stick that much out the block, dont take notice of the oil pick up, it's the wrong one, stock one sits lower. Hope this helps you to see you won't need much clearance to remove the sump You might even be able to move the sump to one way and get a spanner in there to undo the bolts on the windage tray and pick up?
I'd pull it. It'll give you a chance to detail everything. I'd leave the bellhousing attached to the trans though. No need to take it off. leave the trans right in place.
I have taken the oil pan off with the engine in the car. You have to take the shroud off and I think you have to remove the fan to get it out. You have to unbolt the trans from the mount before jacking, just don't jack up with the front damper pulley the damper will not be able to handle the weight. I took my pan out and I have studs on the engine and it was a pita but I got it out. If you pull motor I would do it with the trans. i put the front tires on ramps and put jackstands on the rear to get to about the same height. I would replace the clutch too while it is out, it will be a lot easier to line up, there is a line up tool to get everything back in center before you put the trans to the motor. I do like the idea of teflon tape on the threads probably will save you 2-3 days of wrenching, it will probably stop the leak lol. IF you pull the motor you might as well rebuild what you can afford.
Personally, I would remove engine & transmission as a unit. Also remove starter, exhaust manifolds, oil dipstick, crossmember
Agreeing with the other guys above, throw in the teflon tape, you might as well try as hard as possible to do the easy fix. Never forget Ockham's Razor....
I've done it both ways and if I'm going to pull the engine the trans is coming out with it. Much easier to mate it back up on the garage floor by shoving the trans back in the hole that trying to wiggle the engine into place in the car. Not even a close comparison. For the little extra work of unbolting the crossmember and pulling the driveshaft and speedo cable it's well worth it, and the trans hanging off the back adds a nice counterbalance to help with the angle putting it back in. Ramps under the front tires and rear tires on the ground is a good idea, makes it easier. If you can find a spare driveshaft yoke that'll keep the oil where it belongs instead of on the floor. But, you can do this job without pulling the engine and probably should, if you have no other reason. Might not even have to unbolt the exhaust. Jim
If you do decide to remove hood, LEAVE HINGES BOLTED TO HOOD! This way you won't have to re-align the dam thing when you bolt it back on. There is only a small up and down adjustment when bolting the hinges back onto the fenders whereas there can be hours of adjustments to try to line the hood back up with the "marks" you made!(ask me how I know) The up and down movement is probably less than 1/16" with all of the bolts in and just about anywhere the bolts are tightened down, the hood latch will still be in alignment and function properly. A whole lot less dicking around leaving hinges attached to hood when you go to bolt it back on. I have done it myself this way, a lot easier than trying to do it the other way by your self, which I also have.
