Discussion in 'Pro-Touring' started by breakinbuick11, Apr 1, 2018.
Love it. Looks really good
Tagging along maybe I will learn something.......sum purrtee smart dudes on here and very cool cars : )
The car doesn’t run or have functioning brakes, so I decided to ignore those problems and start working on the new hood.
This is a 72 skylark hood that we had from a low miles parts car. It will be satin black with a stage 2 scoop. My new garage still is not equipped with most major tools I need, including an air compressor. I used Eastwood’s Contour SCT tool with an 80 grit drum. I bought it for my dad for Christmas, but had to try it out.
Keeping with the theme of working on stuff that will not make the car run and drive. Bought this gauge panel from @hugger. I’ve always loved the look of Stewart Warner gauges. Figured they would be a different custom look than the traditional Buick setup. If they were good for a GNX, they are good for me. Too bad I cut the farthest right holes too close... I am waiting on the turn signal and high beam indicators to show up.
What's your opinion on the Eastwood stripping tool? I've been tempted...
I second that question
The jury is still out there. That first picture was 10-15 minutes of work. The entire hood took somewhere between 1-2 hours. I didn’t have to change the paper like you do with a DA so that was a plus. I’m really excited to try the wire wheel attachment on the underside of the hood today. My dad does a lot of small body jobs and I think he will make great use of it, but so far I can’t confidently say it was worth the price tag plus the cost of each drum.
wanted to close the loop here. I got a few minutes with the wire brush. My harbor freight wire brush attachments and old drill were more effective with a little effort.
Do I think this tool has a place in every commercial body shop? Yes. It’s effective and an alternative to a conventional DA. My dad and I will both make good use of it.
Do I think it’s worth $290 + attachments ranging from $23-53? No. I’m happy I got it 20% off, but I still don’t think it’s worth it, especially if your a hobbyist and have an adequate compressor to continually run a DA.
hope this helps, I’ll ask a few pics when the underside of the hood is finished.
Car looks great Louie,Keep me posted on the engine and if you need any help let me know. Tom
Thanks Tom! Will do.
Got some work in this weekend. I finished stripping the underside of the hood and took it to my Dad’s. He started taking some of the dents out and expoy primed the underside. I got the car up on stands to button the suspension and brakes up. As @pbulski mentioned a few pages ago, you need to clearance the steering stops or they will contact the ride tech lower control arms before full lock.
With the GN steering box and clearanced steering stops, it’s 2 1/4 turns lock-lock. Once I get it on the road, I’ll see if more will need to be trimmed to improve the turning radius. The 275’s fill the wheel well up nice, but have a lot of clearence left on the fender lip, UCA, and LCA if I need more turning radius.
Good work Louie!
Removed the interior to add sound deadening using the “quick-roof” solution done previously on this board. There was some surface rust underneath the rear seat. I hit it with a wire wheel and used a paint/primer spray can to protect it. Added a sport steering wheel as well. The bucket seat floor mounts should be here this week. I would like to wrap the interior up by the end of this week and get back to the hood.
In the original post, you mentioned you were going to go with a 6 speed, was this the six-speed?
Unfortunately, no. This is just a turbo 350 for now. I might end up putting a 4l80 in it instead of a manual, but it won’t be for a few years until it gets a new engine.