Project Riviera TH400 Rebuild

No it is not a just a riv thing.....the earlier 400 used the same spline but the od of the slip yoke was smaller.........normally I've only seen that on pre 68 400s

 

I have two 1970 and one 1969 th 400's and they are all the same.

 

Good to know.

What is the od of your slip yoke

 

My caliper might be off a hair but 1.7" is the o.d. This is the original driveshaft from my 70 Riv. I have the driveshafts from the other two transmissions and they are the same as well.

 

I forgot to mention the best news of all. I finally put my order in for my JW 9.5 converter. Great guy to converse with! I had the $ set aside to do a converter and almost completely forgot to order it as I'm hoping to have my trans done by the end of this week and installed next week. These are my hopes but they never seem to fall in line the way I plan them.

 

Btw, in case I didn't mention it, these are all transmissions from Riviera's.

 

I had a 68 Pontiac TH400 with the smaller outer dia yoke. It is
possible to just change the rear case to the other (1.89) size, the
shaft is the same. Bruce Roe

 

If I swap the rear tail housing to the larger one to accommodate the larger seal and bushing in my kit then I would have to change the forward driveshaft yoke to the larger size as well. This is correct right, or am I missing something? I don't want to mess with the driveshaft if it's not completely necessary.

 

Correct you would need the larger slip yoke too or it would leak

 

Monday update. So by the end of the day I should have the correct seal and bushing for the extension housing. Got my pump stator to forward drum selectable washers last week and got my front end play dialed in to .015" with the .073" selectable. Installed a Sonnax o-ringed boost valve kit in the pump assembly as well. Now it's on to the valve body area and Transgo shift kit install.

On a side note, does anyone have a suggestion on a trans cooler brand or style and a -6 braided line kit? Also any suggestions on an aluminum pan preferably standard depth?

Thanks!

 

Aluminum pans tend to seal better and help pull some heat out.....

 

Great thread! Good info on the cooler and parts involved. Some of the links seem to be dead, but it shouldn't be too difficult to figure out. I wasn't following the whole torque converter spacing thing in relation to the flexplate. Any chance you can touch on this a little, maybe I just wasn't reading it right?

Thanks Larry!

 

Perfect, thank you again!

 

What about the hose for the trans lines, any recommendations? Buy already made and painfully route them and hopefully make them fit well or build your own to fit?

 

Monday update, so I ordered one of those standard depth polished aluminum pans to finish off this build. Not so much for the bling but for the aluminum aspect and the nice stout flange that it has. Well I got the pan and it's a decent piece with a drain plug and included hardware. Now here is my question, the original pan depth measures 1.75" from the inside of the pan to the gasket side of the mounting surface. This new pan measures 2.25" measured the same way. None of these measurements include the gasket. The filter as assembled and mounted to the trans and measured for it's installed depth is around 1.75" which means that with the stock pan and gasket installed there isn't a whole lot of filter movement that can happen. Am I thinking this out correctly that with the new aluminum pan and gasket installed and the extra .5" of space that the filter pickup tube can possibly come dislodged?

 

I measure just over 1.5 inch on the 65-67 heel print pan, 1.75 inch on the later except
the super duty model (trucks?). I would not want the pan that low without pickup
mods to match.

Generally I do not favor the aluminum pans on a car. First they hang a lot lower.
Then if they do take a serious hit and crack, it will be tough for most of us to fix
the leak. A metal will usually just dent, worse case can be brazed. A drain plug
mount is brazed into mine. good luck, Bruce Roe