Hey everyone! I have been a long time "fly on the wall" to this site and decided to finally put up a post. (I posted this same one before in the wrong place..Oops!) I am currently trying to make my 72 Skylark Custom 350/4bl alittle better. The current problem is my TH-350 is shifting into 2nd and 3rd at a very low rpm, shifts into 2nd almost as soon as you start moving. Also after the motor and trans gets a bit warmed up, it will shift down into 2nd from 3rd very randomly at speed and I have to manually shift into 2nd, then back into D in order for it to shift back up. The trans is a new rebuilt unit from jegs with a new vaccume modulator, the line from the modulator to the intake is free of kinks or debris. The motor is mainly stock except for a 750 carb, TA intake, 1' spacer, electric fan, B&M holeshot 2300 stall converter, duels and an H-pipe. And to top it all off there is ticking that is getting much louder whenever in high rpm or when it downshifts suddenly. I have been reading up on ticks here and I am starting to fear the worst .. o No: Thanks everyone!
I would think about doing some trans work. My preference is a THM400, much less likely to break under stress. Bruce Roe
Thanks Bruce, its a new trans..should I inquire about getting it replaced under warranty? or is there a chance I can tweak something I may have missed? It really has me confused???
Guys, Ive been helpin Taulbee tinker with this thing and we are STUMPED (trans internals happen to be our weak point in terms of knowledge). Any suggestions, no matter how out-there, would be great cause its drivin us nuts!!!!! HELP!!!!
Check the kickdown cable, but I don't think that is it. That trans seems to have at least 3 different, normally unrelated problems. Possibilities are A) get it replace under warrantee, or B) drive it till it breaks and then get it replaced under warrantee. good luck, Bruce Roe
Ordinarily I would question the compatibility of the governor with tire size and axle ratio, which can be fixed with recalibration kit, but as transmission is making noise it might be something else. Have you got the correct amount of fluid in there? If the tranny is destroying itself inside it will send trash into your torque converter which you cannot clean out without cutting it in half!
I.B., Thanks for the suggestion!! We'll look into that. The first post is a little misleading. The "ticking" he refers to is in the engine, not the transmission. Sounds like its in the valve train. Its not really related to the trans problem, I think taulb was just venting since we got 2 problems show up at once. Regardless, the motor's comin out very soon, but that doesnt help our trans issue much...
Hey thanks for the suggestions! When sriley and I put the trans in we made sure that the torque converter was filled to the top (although some did manage to find its way to the garage floor) and I have on multiple occasions check the trans fluid per the instructions from a factory service manual I purchased. My tires arent to much taller then stock ( size slipped my mind ) and a factory final gear. I bought the trans from jegs and they instructed me that I did not need a kick down cable. They plugged the spot to install the cable and said that if the plug was taken out it would void the warranty. I asked how it operated and was informed it was internally valved. As for junk in it, I have not pulled the pan ( since it maybe has 100 miles) It feels strong and pulls hard, just wish it wouldnt shift so darn early! Hard to show off and do burnouts when it shifts quickly :grin:
I saw that when I looked at the transmission in their catalog. That makes no sense to me though. Let me ask you this, does the transmission kick down? Even the TCI transmissions require a detent cable hook up. I'd be looking at the governor.
I saw that when I looked at the transmission in their catalog. That makes no sense to me though. Let me ask you this, does the transmission kick down? Even the TCI transmissions require a detent cable hook up. I'd be looking at the governor.
Larry, honestly no it doesn't kick down unless i shift manually. I thought it was odd as well but if I install the cable then there goes the warranty if there is something wrong. Is there anything in particular I should look at when I open up the governor?
B&M makes a shift point modification kit to control wide open throttle shift points. I really don't understand Jegs for eliminating the detent cable. The THM350 should downshift very easily. My 72 Skylark with 350-2 and a TCI THM350 would go from 3-1 with no problem. It is easy to adjust the cable. I would call Jegs customer service and tell them you are having a problem. I wouldn't just live with it, something is wrong.
Thanks again Larry ill have to check out the B&M kit and see what all is involved to install. The funny thing about this whole situation is that my former transmssion wouldn't shift into 2nd unless I wound up the motor to almost exploding. Its just kinda funny that I had one that wouldnt shift, to one that cant wait to shift. Ill give jegs a call when I get off work :grin:
Well I spoke with Jegs yesterday and came to a conclusion... I was informed that if i want to have it shift later that I would have to do it manually, and if I wanted to downshift at all that I would have to do it manually as well. I guess the $699 price tag was to good to be true. But to be honest it is still miles above my former trans... I really did not like that thing. No matter, Sriley and I pulled the motor last night anyway.
This does not sound right, I do not think this is a manual valve body trans. The governer mods WILL change the shift points unless the trans ONLY shifts manually.
Correct, it does shift automatically, just earlier then i want it to. ill have to give that b&m kit a look, Thanks!!
