I've mentioned it before but I use an outboard primer bulb with a hose coming off the pan. Squeeze it 5 times and you have galleys filled and some pressure. Pretty low tech but also low buck.... Nice when you get in the car and oil pressure jumps right up after sitting for 6 months. Cranking the motor to get oil pressure makes no sense to me.....I want it BEFORE I crank it.
I'm just finishing up the plan for my system. I still have to decide if I want to use the Strataflo 3395 check valve with a viton poppet or the 3400 with a stainless steel poppet. Since I will be using a remote filter I have the option to add a second check valve inline with the engine's oil pump to prevent the possibility of backflow during prelube (though I feel it won't be necessary). The other item I have to finalize is the Parker-Hannifin fitting with a built in screen to pre-filter the oil before it enters the electric pump. I also still need to have a fitting welded into the sump of my oil pan for the feed line but am holding off until my pump shows up so I can size the fitting accordingly. One of the benefits of this system is the fact that if you use the adjustable pressure switch, this system will operate if the engines oil pump can't maintain your lowest oil pressure setting or if the engine's oil pump fails. The adjustable switch is also handy in that it will shut down the prelube system once the engine's oil pump reaches the desired lowest pressure, ..... so you only turn the switch on and leave it until you turn it off at engine shut down. You can wire the switch so the system is automatically on with the ignition on, .... and off with the ignition off, and you can just shut it down whenever necessary. http://www.strataflo.com/pdfs/tech_sheets/StrataFlo_Tech_Spec_No.3400.pdf www.parker.com/literature/Tube%20Fittings%20Division/screenfittings.pdf Larry
Well please keep this post updated as you go as it is an pretty intriguing way to prevent dry starts and oil pump failures. Plus I'm always excited to learn about new ideas
I am going to run an accusump. I plan to wire it to ignition so that the charge of pressurized oil is automatically released when I turn the key. I say "going to run" because my car is not running yet. I am thinking that I will mount the unit in the trunk.
Very interesting approach. Low tech but gets the job done for sure. I like it. ...and I couldn't agree more about cranking to gain oil pressure. This is when bearings get scuffed imo. Pre lubing is key.
Im not arguing the point being made but if this was so important why dont cars come from the factory with this option? Nearly everyone with a drivers license goes out nearly every morning and gets into a cold car and hits the key. My Riv will sit for weeks under her cover. When I go out to start it, pump the peddle a few times ( sometimes more than a few) then hold the key over till it starts. She's got 20,000 miles on the new engine. very close to 100K on the car . The race engine has looser clearances so I'd think pre oiling is even less of an issue. I have a Master Lube system but have not installed it yet.
Briz I think a lot if this is comfort level. I'm sure there's plenty of guys that have never had issues and have never pre oiled after sitting for a while. My thought is higher compression engines are hard on bearings and valve train parts so that's why I have that opinion. Doesn't make me right.
I also am after "peace of mind". After the expense of having an engine built in USD where the NZD is only .69 per USD at the moment, plus the expense of shipping and import duty (about 3500 NZD), I want to do all I can to ensure the longevity of my engine. Is it necessary? Probably not. Helpful possibly and not harmful for sure.
Have been looking at different systems for awhile. My main concern is a failure going down track that a lube system would prevent losing an engine. I don't think starting has been a problem for me. I've run the same rings and bearings for 13 seasons and over 800 1/4 mile passes and has never cranked it over before starting, just fire it up. I think if using right oil and have right clearances there is not a problem. Maybe wrong if running a high HP engine. Mine is just 12.5 CR and only run to 6000.
We just put a morose system on a 90ss with a 650hp 502. He was worried of dry starts after sitting a few weeks or over winter. He got the largest one they had.....after per instructions the 10 to 15 psi air precharge and the system getting full. On a cold cycle ore start the system provided oil pressure in the motor for more than 45 seconds........that's how long it takes the pressure gauge to get back to 0. It is only at the higher 50 to 60 psi for 10 or so seconds, but stays at the 20-30 for a very long time. His is plumbed into the remote oil filter. Will be neat to see at oil change when we cycle that to empty it what type of volume we are getting . We did his through an10 hose on one of the out port of the remote filter. I will pull the hose going back to motor and get an idea. His was 200 plus the valve, then had to do the remote filter stuff......but a lot of our race motors already have that for one reason or another......and the few hundred bucks compared to 20,30,40k we have in our motors is a drop in the bucket for the price of mind. Does it help, the theory sounds right to me, does it hurt???? As long as the oil level doesn't go too high I can't see it hurting
I guess in theory what ever comes out as a pre charge should be pushed back in when it recharges its self. It's got a 8 qt deep pan on it and I usually only run 7. dont have a dip stick.
The idea with the additional pump is the right way and can even be used as support in an emergency. But the oil has to be filtered, how would you solve that?
