Discussion in 'High Tech for Old Iron' started by theone61636, Apr 6, 2010.
Sorry, but your warranty has expired!
Until I can do a little testing I am going to have to disagree with you guys. A carb or TBI are just fuel delivery systems. What a engine does with that fuel once in the intake is a whole other story. There is a lot that determines what a engine likes or dislikes (intake heat, valve timing, overlap, ignition timing,combustion chamber shape, quench and so on) but an engine that likes 13.5 AFR at idle with a carb is going to like 13.5 AFR with FI. Just because a TBI is able to control a AFR of 15 to 1 and keep the engine running doesn't mean the engine is going to like, need or want it. With an automatic you can put it in and out of gear with TBI and the unit will adjust and keep the idle and AFR up at 15 to 1. With a carb that lean put it in gear and it will most likely stall. The carb doesn't adjust and keep it running. But either way the engine is not happy.
By changing the idle restictor, idle air bleed or transfer slot in a carb is the same as changing the IPW in a TBI. Just a lot easier in a TBI. Your altering the amount of fuel going into the engine. Your not changing the amount of fuel the engine likes only changing what it gets.
I have over 1000 logs of my engine with different carb combinations. I know what it likes and doesn't like. I log AFR. TPS, MAP and fuel pressure. I also have 187 logs with the PJ3 testing different things. Yes I can run an idle AFR of 15 with the PJ3 but it doesn't like it and other driving issues come up. Now you may be able to tune some of them out but it is a lot easier to give it what it likes or needs. Maybe the guys with the clutch in stall problem is because it is too lean and the engine is not making enough power to keep itself running.
With a carb I ran it at 13.8 out of gear and it would lean out to 14.2 in gear. The RPM's would drop less than 50. If I ran it at 15 AFR and put it in gear it would drop 300 RPM. No power running that lean.
Steiner I have the same heads on a 383 with a little more cam and rear gear.
Stroker Your plugs probably won't clean up until you start driving it. Idling in the garage is not getting it totally up to temp and most of the time it's not getting a good burn as it warms up. Tried it.
Your warranty? Sorry about that I guess.... haha
When I tune a car with a big cam, I will run it as lean as possible at idle so my eyeballs don't melt!
Rich = not enough oxygen, too much fuel
Lean = too much oxygen, not enough fuel
All the O2 sees is well O2, weather it reads lean; from a lean burn, a rich misfire, a dead plug/cylinder... Hell Its hard for me to remember since I don't work with it everyday anymore but 5 gas **** is complicated and just because the sensors says its rich or lean.... Doesn't always mean it's correct.
Either way a big cam car looks lean in an O2 sensors eye because of the overlap and incomplete combustion even though its the other way around... It makes me cry, so I lean it out till the engine becomes unhappy then richen it up buy about .2
My brain hurts
The Professional Products forum is now open!!! You guys are the first to know so hurry over and join the experience. We have started to post excellent content and calculators to help with your Powerjection systems. Thank you everyone for your patience. There will be a lot of maintenance to continue so the forum will only get better from here on! :beers2::beers2:
And with that... this thread slowly sinks into oblivion... RIP V8Buick PJIII thread, you have helped so many..
It is quite sad i must say. I wish i could copy and paste this entire thread.
To the majority here :gp:
They just did a feature in Hot Rod on "Self learning" systems, why weren't any of the PJ/PP in there? No mention whatsoever.
Michael from Denmark here
i am lost in the new forum so i will try in here again
it's about the 69 corvette i have post'ed before in here has got a funny start issue
from -40F - 100F in the afterstart the car starts right up and idle's fine when it shifts to 110F - 230F in the afterstart it only runs for the secound i have typed if i set to 10 sec. it starts and run perfect for 10 sec. and it the same if it is 20, 30, or 40 sec. but ONLY in the 110 - 230 afterstart. From -40 - 100F no problem any idey's
Cranking volts is 9.7 i also have treid to make a jumper from KEY wire to the battery just in case and no differense
sorry my english
I have fixed the problem i install'ed new softwere and that seem to work
You best place for help at this point is going to the www.Professional-products.com/forum for help. I hate that by opening the forum it killed this thread, but i am sure the Buick guys are glade that we are gone. Too much horse power in this thread :laugh::3gears:
This may set a record for longest time between posts, but since the official Powerjection forum seems to have disappeared from the face of the internet, I thought I’d send out a dusty ping and see if anyone is still around.
50 forum pages makes for some good holiday reading, but it’s really got me wondering if the grooves/slots in the butterflies helped with closed throttle running. I’ve run into problems when cruising at very low power levels, where if I have to suddenly come off the throttle, which is only at TPS of 7ish, things go way rich and she gets bucky. It’s at such a low power setting that dropping a few TPS doesn’t change the IPW cell but airflow drops drastically. I seem to have fixed by leaning up my cruise AFR but slots in the butterflies to allow better fuel transfer at small TPSs seems like a better solution that addresses the actual problem instead of working around it.
Ideas or experiences? A 7-year old report from Steiner or Schum is surely due.
I also want to chime in - it´s an old thread - but I am deperately searching for a firmware file for a Powerjection.
Seems that I have kind of destroyed my configuration by using the 3.0 Software version with the EFI running a lower version.
As soon as I have connected the EFI and ran the software, instantly the car would not fire up anymore. I did not change a single setting.
When I try a 2.0 or 2.1 version, it says that the different tables checksums are wrong. So I cannot load a default settings file as a result.
My plan now is to flash the EFI with a 2.0 or 2.1 firmware file to bring it back to life.
I called the support line from professional products - but I was told the Powerjection was discontinued 2 years ago and no one´s there anymore who can help me. :/
Can anybody send me an .efh flash file for version 2.0 or 2.1? That would be my last resort .......
Thanks in advance,
I luckily have received a copy of the firmware for the 2.1 dashboard version - thanks Steiner99!!!
After flashing the EFI, I was able to connect successfully with the Dashboard 2.1 to the EFI and upload a baseline settings file.
I have used the one uploaded from "Schum" on Page 43 of this thread: "428 cj 1 runs decent.zip"
After that, the car instantly fired up.
So it looks like connecting with a 3.0 dashboard to a 2.0 or 2.1 firmware based Powerjection 3 could destroy/corrupt the settings.
Steiner99 or CallMeAl, can one of send me a copy of the Retrotek Boss EFI PJ1 software? I just bought a complete system, $200, but didn't include the software. Thank You In Advance!!!
The attached pictures are of the system that I need firmware/software for....
problem on my powerjection:
conecting with 3.0 dashboard, then get the green "conected" light. but none of the other indicator lamps come "green" all stay grey. no other info on my dashboard...
don't understand what happening. trying to upload new settings, loading fail with some O2 sensor out of range.
can my firmware be corrupted?
can anyone send me the 2.1 software. i have the 2.0 and 3.0 but need the 2.1 to flash firmware.
Hey guys... hoping someone familiar with the P3 system can jump in and give my dad and I a hand trying to get his car to run. We've got quite a few questions to make sure this thing is setup right. This seems to be the last place on the good ole Net that some familiar people are still possibly around since the old forum is gone!
If anyone knows of another place for some help i'd certainly appreciate it too.
Basically running a P3 system (70026, software version 3.0) purchased in 2015 from summit for a GM 350 with performer air gap intake and performer RPM cam. MSD 6AL-2 box. Idle is EXTREMELY rich and rough. A/F #'s seem to vary when compared with our other A/F meter (in the opposite exhaust side) - it reads 10-10.5, where ECU reads 12-14. It will idle, but its so rich it'll run through 5 gal's of gas in a half hour at idle. Fuel pressure is 42psi (was 45, but lowered to see if that'd help any). Ran the pre-config for the 6500rpm Performer RPM setup. Modified the A/F table so it would try and get 16A/F instead of 14.7 (to try and lean it out more cuz it was running so rich), but no luck.
One big question we have ran across is the wiring. The comments in this thread indicate the green wire (labeled as spark output in our instructions) should go to the MSD box. But from what we interpreted our instructions, it would be the Black Wire going to the MSD Box (which is what we did). We're thinking of swapping them, but don't want to ruin the ecu or anything in case that is NOT the correct way.