Powerjection III Install and Review

Yes, I needed to use a 1" spacer so that the FPR didn't hit the manifold.

 

Okay, I didn't think a Quadrajet and a Holley had the same bolt pattern.

 

They don't but the manifold accepts either bolt pattern, so I just used a regular spacer to match the throttle body.

 

Just a quick update: Still having problems with the fuel pump so I decided to finally order a fuel tank cleaner/sealer kit. I'm also going to change the return line from the stock feed hardline to a -8 SS fuel hose. This way I know there's no restriction in the return line AND if I ever decide to up the power I already have the larger size hose to accomodate. Now I just have to keep my fingers crossed that this sealer kit will work.

 

You know when I first got my 70 GS-455 about 13 years ago I took the tank to a local radiator shop who "boiled" it and gave me a nice shiny (though very pitted) tank back that was clean as a whistle (he also fixed a crack in the filler neck). I was concerned with all the old crap in the tank getting into the new engine at the time. I too looked at the sealer stuff but had been warned off using it from a co-worker at the time who owned a 68 Shelby telling horror stories of the stuff not bonding and clogging up fuel filters like nobodys business.

Not trying to poo-poo on your idea but it might be worth looking around locally to see if there is someone that can clean the tank out for you.

 

Started the cleaning process yesterday. I was actually supriised with how "clean" the tank was. No gum or varnish whatsoever, just rusty water. Today starts the sealer stage of the process so, hopefully in 96 hours my tank will be perfectly clean and sealed. I also ran the new -8 return line yesterday and installed another new fuel pump. It's just a waiting game now.

 

Pics please!

 

Well, the Riv lives again! Installed the tank back in yesterday and gave it one more day of cure time for the sealer. Put gas in her this morning, primed the fuel system a few times and drove her around. The only time you here the fuel pump is when it's priming the system before start-up. Fingers crossed that it stays that way.

 

So I got home today and adjusted the idle and timing and took her out for a quick run and she was running great. Go to turn into my neighborhood and all of a sudden she starts sputtering. I nurse her into the garage and shut her off. I hook up the laptop and try to start her and she just idles really rough from 100-400 rpm. I then noticed all the readings are way out of wack. So i reload the base tune and try again. Same result, I disconnect the negative battery cable and reload base tune, same result. When i turn the key to the on position without even starting THIS is what it's showing me.
Something is obviously way wrong. The temp gauge in the car is showing 215 and there's no way it should be showing ANY boost period, especially when the car is even running. So now I'm waiting to talk to the tech from Professional Product to find out WTF?!

 

It doesn't look like it's connected first of all. when it says "connecting" are you sure it's still communicating?

 

It obtained those readings when it was connected, I just print screened it when i was disconnected the ecu.

 

Well, I sent the data log files off to Retrotek to see if it's going to be something they can fix without me sending in the throttle body. I swear to God, the problems with this car never seem to end. Plus, just to spice things up even more, I think i popped a seal in my power steering pump because there was a huge puddle of fluid on the garage floor minutes after i got home.
I think it's time to either start saving for an LSX crate motor or to just get rid of this car.

 

Hmm, bummer on the issues. Yeah the Map sensor calibration is way off for sure. Any chance the intake air sensor and coolant temp sensor wiring got switched?

Despite my Buick being down I'm jumping back into the EFI as today I bolted the TBI back on my T-bird and should have it driving by the end of the weekend.

 

I wish it were that simple. but the intake air sensor is part of the throttle body and the H2O sensor has it's own dedicated wore coming out from the ECU.

 

Is the map sensor also built in? I guess for my point it really doesn't matter, what I really want to know is if all wiring goes through the throttle body? Where are the grounds to the system hooked up? Is there more than one ground wire? Grounds with electrical noise or poor contacts do weird things to sensor readings.

 

All the wires go into the throttle body(the MAP is in there as well). The ground for the whole system IS the throttle body itself.

 

Where is the battery grounded? To the engine? To the chassis? If to the chassis, you may try adding a ground strap (or another one if you have one) to connect the engine and chassis. If to the engine, I don't have much else to offer.....

 

What material is your spacer made out of? Is it possible the spacer (or gaskets) are affecting your ground connection?

 

That thought crossed my mind too, but I dismissed the thought because it should ground sufficiently through the four mounting bolts.

 

The EZ-EFI instructions are very specific that they want the main 12V feed and ground to go directly to the battery. Awfully easy to end up with a ground loop in these old cars especailly if you don't have enough ground straps. Most of the Japanese cars in the 80's did not have the ECU problems that the US autos did. One of the theorys on that was that the average Honda had like 7 ground straps all around the car while most US cars had like 1 or 2.

Just a theory. You've had this thing running good in the past it's just the car making you "earn it". DON'T GIVE UP!

Besides that,the crate LS3 still needs accessories and brackets it's not a plug and play...

best of luck!