Power Timing your Buick V8

Discussion in 'Buick FAQ' started by LARRY70GS, Jan 2, 2005.

  1. Dwayne B

    Dwayne B Well-Known Member

    It cranks good when hot.I bought A curve kit last summer, I installed the brass stop bushing,but after reading all the posts ,I seen where the 72 distributor didn't have A lot of mechanical advance .Last night I took the brass bushing out ,and installed A stock rubber bushing .I never checked the initial timing with the brass bushing, but I checked it after I installed the stock bushing and it was 18°.
     
  2. Dwayne B

    Dwayne B Well-Known Member

    I have A points distributor, how is the best way to make A stop for the vaccum advance .
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    That only applies to the 1112110 455 distributor and the 1112109 350 distributor. Those are the stock 72 distributors. Other distributors from other years vary greatly.

    Pictures in the very first post. Take the canister out, make a stop plate, drill and tap two holes, and use short screws. Custom file the plate to get the distance right.
     
  4. Dwayne B

    Dwayne B Well-Known Member

    Ok thanks Larry I really appreciate the help.
     
  5. Dwayne B

    Dwayne B Well-Known Member

    I made A vac advance stop this evening ,and between that and changing to the stock mechanical advance stop bushing it made A big difference in low in torque .I'm very pleased with it.
     
  6. Dwayne B

    Dwayne B Well-Known Member

    I seen this and made one from A link,works great.
    I thought that was A great idea .
     
  7. blyons79

    blyons79 Well-Known Member

    Larry,

    How do you lock out the mechanical advance?
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    On a stock points distributor? Awhile back, The Silverbuick posted a lock out plate he made for a big cap HEI distributor. Can't seem to find the picture. I applied it to my distributor. Remove the weights and springs. Then move the the distributor to full advance and make a metal plate that fits over the 4 weight pins. I had to cut and tweak it so the rotor mounted correctly, but the nice thing about it is it is completely reversible. I made it out of cardboard first and got the fit right, then made a meatal copy.
     
  9. Dwayne B

    Dwayne B Well-Known Member

    I don't mean to step in,but I'm wondering what the advantage is ,when you lock out mechanical advance. I'm just trying to learn all I can .
     
  10. blyons79

    blyons79 Well-Known Member

    No I have the stock Delco distributor. So the goal is simply to keep the weights from moving? Does it matter then at what position the weights are in?

    I’m converting to FiTech and it will be controlling my timing.

    With this set up I imagine I too would want to plug the vacuum advance?
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Yes, the Delco distributor is the stock points distributor. Remove the weights and springs. Read my post you quoted.
     
  12. blyons79

    blyons79 Well-Known Member

    Im locking mine because I’m converting to EFI and the unit can control my timing. I’m not sure that there is an advantage other than the convenience.
     
  13. Dwayne B

    Dwayne B Well-Known Member

    Ok I was just curious, I have heard of people locking the timing ,and was wondering about it.
     
  14. blyons79

    blyons79 Well-Known Member

    Oh....got it. Think I’ve been in the sun too long! Got it.

    What do you think about this method:

     
  15. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    That is so much work compared to what I did. Take the cap and rotor off. Remove the advance springs. Move the weights all the way out to the full advance position. That is the position you want to lock it in. Some guys braze it in that position. That isn't easily reversible. If you take the weights off leaving it in that full advance position, you will see the 4 weight pins in a certain position. Make a plate and drill 4 holes in it. Fit the plate over the 4 pins, and the distributor will be locked. It takes a little fabricating. I made it out of cardboard first, then transferred it to some scrap metal I had. A little trial and error. Then put the rotor back on, and you are done. Completely reversible.
     
  16. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    For some big cams, locking the distributor for constant timing results in a better idle and low end response. When you run constant timing, the engine will not want to crank when hot. That can cause kickback and break the starter nose. Most guys use a starter retard box. It retards the timing when the engine is running under 500 RPM, then adds it back in when the engine goes above that. That feature is selectable on certain ignition boxes. My MSD Digital 6 box has it. It removes 20* of timing while cranking the engine. I run 34* constant timing. It cranks at 14*

    Some ignition boxes allow you to program an ignition curve. You lock out the distributor and the box controls the timing curve. Some fuel injection systems can control timing. It requires lock out.

    MSD distributors can be locked out. It requires distributor removal. You then remove the gear, and pull the shaft out a few inches and turn the advance plate 180*. The screw that held the advance bushings in the slot now inserts in a hole that locks the advance mechanism.
     
  17. Dwayne B

    Dwayne B Well-Known Member

    Ok thanks Larry
    I was just curious, and wondering how it worked .
     
  18. Larry sorry for asking this again. Have set my timing at 30 degrees. When revved up to where the advance of distributor comes in, the line on the damper moves. NOW should I set the full advanced mark on the pointer? Frank
     
  19. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    You have to set the timing when the weights have moved out to their maximum swing. If the line continues to move, you haven’t done that. That is why you need the lightest spring you can find, just to set the total. It maxes out the timing at the lowest RPM.
     
  20. NOTNSS

    NOTNSS Gold Level Contributor

    WOW! 13 years and counting for this tread.

    Larry Rocks!
     

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