More wiring concerns...... I see that a previous owner has run the positive wire on the coil, directly to the IGN on the fuse block. It’s the blue wire in the photo. Looks a little burned too. According to the Wiring circuit diagram, it was originally a 16 gauge pink that joined up with the yellow of the solenoid. Can someone explain why or if this is bad to run it like he did?
That was done to run full time battery voltage to the ignition. Read how the stock points system works, and how to do it right, http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?th...ystem-function-tests-and-modification.248990/
Thank you Larry. My yellow wire from the R on the solenoid goes to the resistance wire. Right now the positive coil is not hooked up at this junction. I recall two years ago, I removed a pertronix distributor and put in a points style distributor. So basically now my points distributor is receiving a full 12 volts all the time which will wear it out more quickly! For that resistance wire, how can I replace that if i want to start out with a new one? Is it just the gauge and length that makes it a 1.8ohm wire? Or maybe someone sells the correct one with the correct connection into the harness? Thanks much, Matt
On another note, top left bank of fuse block, there’s nothing at all in my POWER ACCSY/BAT and the CLK LTR/CTSY BAT keeps blowing a 20 amp fuse. No headlights, no turn signals, What a mess.
I think that’s what I need to do. I just need a little stub of wire. I think the resistance wire won’t quite make it that far.
I think you missed the part in my link where I state that the resistance wire is a calibrated length of special conductor wire. The conductor typically looks silver and has a cloth like insulation. It doesn't run all the way to the coil. It runs from the firewall to a point where the yellow wire from the starter tees into it and the pink wire that runs the rest of the way to the coil. If you have any doubts when you reinstall everything, just do the tests I describe in the link. The resistance wire is 1.8 ohms. If the entire thing was missing, you could replace it with a store bought ballast resistor (Chrysler ones work great), and wire it like this.
Thanks Larry, I appreciate the drawing. We are thinking the same, I just misunderstood. The cloth resistance wire is there yet.
Finding a resistor isn’t all that easy. Many of them don’t list their ohms of resistance. I did find one that’s 1.82 ohm. I’m wondering if 1.6 ohm would hurt? As for 16 gauge wire, it’s about 4 ohm per 1000 feet, so a couple feet is only 0.008 ohm which is negligible.
Finding a resistor isn’t all that easy. Many of them don’t list their ohms of resistance. I did find one that’s 1.82 ohm. I’m wondering if 1.6 ohm would hurt? As for 16 gauge wire, it’s about 4 ohm per 1000 feet, so a couple feet is only 0.008 ohm which is negligible.
What?!? And save all that time? Lol Ya, probably the best way. Sometimes I “enjoy” replacing stuff that still works.
See where it says "report" at the bottom of each post? Click that and fill out the box. I did it already.