Pole Barn advice/Tips & Tricks/ Pictures

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by dr, Jul 24, 2012.

  1. Bill's Auto Works

    Bill's Auto Works QUALITY AT ITS BEST!

    Hi Dave,

    I am in New London, Twp ( about 40 miles from you) I started with a 40 x 88 building & am just finishing up a 16 x 85 addition of the back of it In our cold area, the
    insulation is super important! I have a company do the expandable spray foam on the walls. Not only is the R value high, but just as importantly it seals completely
    from all air leaks. Also I use Radiant Heat Tube heating, this type of heating heat surfaces instead of the air. It is powered by propane, but nat gas can be used as well
    It is extremely efficient. I keep mine at 55 deg when I am not in it & can easily up it to anything I want. Also I use bright white metal for the inside walls & ceiling (same metal as the outside just different color) Along with LED lighting makes it nice & bright. Here are a few pics, but you are more than welcome to come over & see it. I am a transporter, so I am on the road a lot, but am home some of the time. Also I recommend metal roofing, While I was having the addition done I had them do the building & the house with dark green metal. I love it!

    God Bless
    Bill Squires(owner)
    Bill's Auto Works
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/
     

    Attached Files:

  2. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    I agree with the perma columns being the way to go...
     
  3. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Join the garage journal forum and see thousands of well documented builds...
     
    Dano and Bill's Auto Works like this.
  4. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    Thanks a ton guys. I help build a barn years ago and loved using perma columns. I'm encouraged, 15k for the building and 10k for the slab. I was originally thinking of making it myself but I'm changing my mind on that one.
     
  5. 36racin

    36racin Platinum Level Contributor

    This is the way to go IMO. Same building process as used by http://mallettbuildings.com/ . Brother build one of the Mallett building and loves it. They used these to protect the poles in the ground https://www.homedepot.com/p/Post-Pr...Composite-Fence-Post-Protector-6642/203165686 . Easy construction process.
     
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  6. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    I'm retired and 57 I need to do this.
     
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  7. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    I understand the glacial scale in your initial post 8 years ago:).
     
  8. 8587GN

    8587GN Well-Known Member

    my advice is to go with a footer/foundation. That's how I did mine. Regular framed construction with trusses. For the lift area, you can always go with a scissor truss. I`m in the trades if you have any questions. You can see my building in my avatar pic
     
  9. WQ59B

    WQ59B Well-Known Member

    This is a problem area:
    Screen Shot 2020-12-02 at 1.15.39 PM.png

    Form for concrete & purlins for siding are outside of posts. Concrete form boards will rot, allowing a steady stream of vermin to enter.
    If I were building mine over (24x48), I'd set the concrete form outside where it currently is by 2-4", and have the metal siding butt against concrete, not overhang. OR... flash the inside bottom edge of the wall.
    I had to go back and pour a 'mini curb' inside , all the way around to seal that gap / stop the intruders.
    Always build with mice entry prevention in mind.
     
  10. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    Thanks Keith you and I have had Beer together at the Buick get togethers.
     
  11. dr

    dr Well-Known Member

    Da
    I'm only three years off and my retirement got pushed back 2 years so in my head I'm on schedule. LOL
     
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