YES, I've been selling & installing them for years. Only two problems. One was bad right out of the box. For awhile they had a problem where the screw that holds down the lead wire wasn't deep enough.. Ends up there was too much sealing material injected under the screw & when you went to tighten it down the screw would break & the wire wasn't tight. Since has been fixed, BUT I ALWAYS check to make sure the screw goes in all the way BEFORE installing. Tom T.
If Im following this right Holley now offers us a hyperspark setup. They have a hyperspark distributor. https://www.holley.com/products/ign...per_efi_hyperspark_distributors/parts/565-312
Guys, these are now BACK IN STOCK!! More information on them here > https://www.diecastmusclecars.com/buick_distributor_kit.htm Todd .
The electronic ignition controls the Dwell automatically. Some modules actually vary it according to needs. Dwell is the time period the coil is being energized.
Does it control the dwell on old style distributors or just on electronic ignition type? Just trying to make sure I understand correctly. Thanks for your patience!
The unit that Todd sale replaces the points style to electronics thus controlling the dwell adjustment as well.
I have a Fitech instead of Sniper but use the MSD 6530. I use the timing control on the MSD due to it's proven reliability and the ability to run more sophisticated timing curves.
Ok, that makes sense the way you worded it. I thought from the beginning that his kit replaced points, done deal. But then the discussion went to the part about dwell being controlled automatically by electronic ignition. I guess I was over thinking it. One other question, do you still need to modify the resistor wire with new 12volt supply like Pertronix?
That's what I call direct and to the point! Thanks Tom! I've had a new Pertronix kit in my trunk for 3 years, but never installed it because I have been nervous about doing the 12volt supply after burning up the first kit.
Michael, You DON'T have to replace/eliminate the resister wire which requires opening up the harness. Instead use the resistor wire to trigger a relay. No cutting open harnesses & can go back to stock easily with NO MUSS & FUSS since you DIDN'T cut a stock harness.
I like that idea. Maybe when I get ready to do the conversion, I'll PM you if you wouldn't mind. I have read through Larry's thread about it, but it seems pretty involved. So I just left the points. After all, the car has worked for 55 years already with points and starts with a touch of the key unless it has set for a while and has to crank enough to get the carb primed back up.
It really isn't. All you need to do is unwrap the harness and trace the wires. If you don't want to separate the firewall connector to replace the resistance wire, you can clip it off close to the firewall and crimp/solder on replacement wire. Or, you can run a relay like Tommy suggested. Relay wiring,
Hello Mr. Larry, I respect you a lot even though I have never met you. I enjoy reading your posts, they are always very informative. I know that you really know your way around these cars, and my post definitely wasn't meant in a negative way. But I haven't been able to wrap my head around what you recommend for the Pertronix conversion to work properly. I already burned up one Pertronix, so a little gun shy. Also not familiar with this relay you guys are talking about either. My brother in law has suggested swapping a newer style electronic ignition distributor, but I don't want that look on my '64. I'll read your thread on the subject again. Thanks again for your input on this board!
