Yes Intake runners are oily. a couple other ones were slick as well but then again I did run some seafoam down the carb trying to clean it out, maybe it left some wet residue? seemed oily though. if one intake port is oiled up is it possible for vacuum to pull oil from one side to another? or should it stay at that port? Switched plugs around a couple times and everytime they come out of 4/6 soaked with oil. couldnt tell much from the valley pan this last removal as i had smears of RTV around it. not sure, didnt take it out for a run as it was smoking too much. it definitely idles much rougher than before so im sure its not gonna feel as good
Ok, just so Im understanding this correctly, even WITH the iron intake back on, its still running rough, and sucking oil?
I had to E-Mail him to get in touch I think it costs 35 bucks. Maybe the .060 is too thick of a gasket, I know I had used .030. With the SP3 I had to use the .015 gasket. I do think that with the gasket getting pinched at the bottom by the intake gasket and the piece of valley pan is pushing up the intake there and causing a leak. Did you go in sequence with the tightening of the intake? I know you did so did you retighten it after the engine was ran for a while after cooling off overnight? I know I glued the composite to the heads first then put the big bead across the rails. The pins for the intake were not there from when my engine was built the first time so I put in longer pins so I could put intake on the pins then just let it drop by letting go after getting on the pins. This made it easier to get straight and no chance of the gasket moving. I would also make sure that the trans Modulator is not your problem if this part fails it will pull trans fluid into the intake and make it smoke. but on mine it did this with number 8 cyl since that is where the vac fitting is for the trans modulator. The valley pan from AM&P will make things easier if you can still get this part. I did this a couple years ago now and I set it up for Mike at AM&P to make for the 350. So I was the first one to get one for the 350. But as with anything else that has been made for the 350 if no one buys it they kind of go away. Put the SP3 on there it is a nice intake car runs a lot better with this starts easy and just runs better. I know you have the DP intake and it should work. Somehow you must be moving the gasket when installing the intake.
here are a couple more pics with the old valley pan set up The edge has to be close on the bottom of the heads to keep from pinching the gasket. On the last pic I for got about this I used tape to hold the gasket to the head before I put the intake on I just pulled the tape out after install. I put the tape where it would not get under the intake to be tightened up. I was getting it ready to use with the old valley pan but then got the AM&P pan and abandoned this idea of the old intake pan with the composite gaskets. I also show the pins I put on the engine to make it easier to drop the intake on.
Yep!, but only from 4-6 cylinders. different than what the TA did. and its strange because ive had this same iron intake on and off this car many times before and never once had oil burn. good seal everytime. but i cant seem to get it right now. i even removed it and resealed again and same 2 cylinders wet. i really hope its just me not sealing it well. i just dont know what else to try here.
thanks for the help guys! i know putting a straight edge will show if the TA intake is flat or not but how can I find if the angle is right? if its been milled and too big of a gap at the lower edge of where it meets the head.
Cast iron intake back on (for the umpteenth time) same 2 cylinders 4&6 fouling plugs with fresh oil and (assuming gas). same rough idle. same smoke from tail pipe after it warms up (burns my eyes and smells of burnt oil). no smoke on cold start. maybe im wrong but I really dont think this is a sealing problem as the last time i pulled the intake i didnt really notice any oil paths sneaking under the gasket into the head port. SO, next step I am going to do a leak down test. I have one on order coming this weekend. Ive never done one before so any tips will be appreciated. seems fairly straight fwd though. Id really like to know whats going on and hopefully this will tell me something important or something i may have missed, as i am stuck here and I NEED to get my buick back on the road! i miss it! i have funds saved up for any repairs so BRING IT ON! lets figure this out and get its health back
I am wondering whether you have a crack in the head. The early 350 heads were prone to this. Oil might get into the ports that way.
Does it run ok at first? Did you have a choke? Clean plugs, and switch to a different cylinder. See if they foul out in another cylinder. But plug the pcv and trans lines first. Try to separate everything. Then bring them back one at a time.
Larry, oh man, this just reminded me, when I had my heads rebuilt, the builder wasnt comfortable with one of them because it had some pitting that was a tad deeper than expected. so he found a replacement head that was better to work with but had a small crack in it, I remember him showing me how he fixed it ( dont quote me on this its been awhile) by drilling a couple holes and using some type of small metal plugs? i cant remember exactly how it was done. maybe this repair has finally went belly up?? it fires up, (choke operable) just as it always has, but a much rougher idle than before. from cold to hot rough idle. i had this engine tuned to idle perfectly before without a wiggle. it doesnt puff any smoke upon startup so its not like oil is seeping in while sitting, it comes a minute or so after, as it warms up. more apparent if i hold a high idle or give it some good hard throttle blips. Plugs are new, yes ive switched them around and any plugs from those 2 cylinders come out wet. others are dry. already tried and eliminated PCV and trans line, same outcome.
Hmmmm, you have two issues to sort out, a rough idle and fouling in two cylinders, which could be related issues. Im thinking the rough idle is from an ignition issue. 2 and 4 keep fouling, almost like they're not firing, OR firing intermittently. Did you try swapping ign. wires? Id critique the ignition system first, get that rough idle sorted out.
Yes time to do a leak down tests, you can't put the intake on wrong 4 times or more if you have. With the leak down tester try to have the compressor set at 100 lbs. as this gives you the best readings. you can do it with less air but you have to recalculate the numbers 100 lbs is just easier. Try to do it after warm engine if you can, you take all the plugs out put the cyl. at TDC and put the air chuck on and take the readings from the two air readings and then you use the paper provided to calculate the leakage. you can use the distributor rotor to put each cyl. at TDC. If you do #1 first put on "0" on the timing mark then look at the rotor to see where it is pointing at for reference then you will know where to put each cyl. at for the other cylinders. I would take the valve cover off on the bad side since it might be cracked it may leak from that area. Since the cylinder may be sealing but the cracked head will leak out of the crack. You can also try to do the compression test to back up your readings or see if there is a difference. With the leak down tests you will be able to hear where the air is leaking from. if you have a blown head gasket the water will push out of the radiator. Blown rings will push air into the crankcase. Valves into the exhaust or go to the intake. Do number one first to get a set reading from a good cyl. then do the two that have the problem. you already eliminated the trans and changed plugs around so it is time for the leak down. unless the valve guide are sucking oil down like mad I would say the head is screwed up. Maybe time to save up some money and just put on the new Aluminum heads. Hope this all helps!
