Pinion seal

Discussion in 'Got gears?' started by john.schaefer77, Aug 18, 2017.

  1. john.schaefer77

    john.schaefer77 Well-Known Member

    Has anyone done the pinion seal (just the seal) on a buick 8.2 rear? My 70 8.2 pinion seal has been leaking for a couple of years. I am sick of seeing wet spot on the diff.
    I was thinking of doing the "mark the pinion and the nut, count the threads, and put it back on the same place" method. Is this dumb or should I try another method? It has not gotten any worse over the years. Also, if I find that the shaft of worn or grooved, is there a speedi-sleeve that will fix that, or a replacement that is of good quality? Thanks for the advice.
     
  2. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    When retightening the nut,you will notice a significant increase in resistance trying to tighten the nut,when you get up against the crush sleeve. Stop there.
    Put some white thread sealer on the pinion splines,and red locktite on the nut.
    I've seen some rears where the seal itself was fine,but it spent the majority of its life wicking oil through the splines.
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  3. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    X2 gotta seal the splines, and the back side of the seal where it goes into the housing. Thin bead them push what squeezes out in tight with your finger
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  4. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    The chassis manual has the procedure to replace the seal. I think it said to tighten an additional 1/8 turn?
    Best to use a new nut. Suppose loctite may suffice.
    It takes a LOT of torque to crush the sleeve...such as a 4 ft long breaker bar. You could zap the nut on with an air gun and likely not affect the crush if your under 150 ft lbs.
     
    john.schaefer77 likes this.
  5. mikethegoon

    mikethegoon Well-Known Member

    I have to replace pinion seal on 68 skylark. Bone stock. 350 with St 300. Can or has anyone done this recently? I need the part # for seal. Might have to take it to professional s this time. 10 bolt.
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    http://www.jdrace.com/content/diff_id/10bBOP_Buick.php
     
    mikethegoon likes this.
  7. mikethegoon

    mikethegoon Well-Known Member

    I've been trying to see that for last hour and half. Thanks/ looks like I'm going back to Auto store.
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

  9. mikethegoon

    mikethegoon Well-Known Member

    ^^^ wha? My phone won't open this hence the long search time.the rock auto is a national oil seal piece. I just ordered off ebay- obselete parts seller at twice price my employer charged. ( wrong seal but discounted just the same) .
     
  10. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    Don't forget to check the yoke also. IF it has a groove in it from the seal they make a Redi-Sleeve for it.
     
  11. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    I have those seals here. I’m rebuilding a few 68-70 Buick 8.2’s right now. They are not rare.
     
  12. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    They DO NOT make a redi sleeve for the 68-70 buick 8.25 rear...tried to find one ...no go.
     
  13. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    They are rare in the fact that your not going to just walk into a parts store and it will be available on the shelf. For sure. It is a order item.
    Jim
    JD Race
     
    mikethegoon likes this.
  14. mikethegoon

    mikethegoon Well-Known Member

    Seen feedback on Amazon stating that received item was not 1 that was pictured. My guy said just don't bring back cheapie seal. Myself I ain't messin with it. Thinkin twice bout taking to my compadres.
     
  15. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    76510471-6FAE-4777-99FB-96883700136A.jpeg I believe this is what I use in the 68-70 Buick 8.2’s. I will be doing a few shortly,but I think this is why I have these.
     
    mikethegoon likes this.
  16. mikethegoon

    mikethegoon Well-Known Member

    The guys working on counter here at auto parts store did a cross reference. For part#. Yet I dont believe I have seen timken brand coming thru shop.? I Googled it and I see em now. If I was doing it. I would want seal with a flange on it. I have only done one wayyyy back in the day.
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2020
  17. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    JUST be sure the seal lip has 2 touch points (inner and outer lip )that will be good. The outer lip metal stop is usually never on seals any more. Just does not get done much you should be fine the ones pictured look good that is what I use here too.

    Jim
    JD
     
  18. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    Are you referring to the outer metal flange,like what the 12-bolt Chevy seals have? Not all seals have a flange like that. The 2043 that is used in all 8.5” 10-bolts,and a variety of other rearends,do not have a flange.
     
  19. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    I have seen old school 8.5 with a flange also...BUT not in the last 15 -20 years.
    Just all depends on manufactures etc.
    I understand there is likely more rigidity when installing it...but ytou know they are all cutting back on material these days.
    If that is what your hunting for in a seal and think that makes a difference in seals...YOUR barking up the wrong tree.
    Install it correctly (not distorting it when installing) and make sure it has inner and outer seal lips and looks like a quality piece well impregnated to the metal...your good.

     
    mikethegoon likes this.
  20. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    The original that I just popped out of the 68 housing looked identical to my replacement. No flange.
     

Share This Page