Overdrive Dilema

Discussion in 'The "Juice Box"' started by TriFiveGuy, Nov 16, 2014.

  1. TriFiveGuy

    TriFiveGuy New Member

    This is my first post in V8 Buick. I have just purchased a 1964 Riviera with the original motor & transmission. I would like to put a 700R4 or 200R4 in the car. Has anyone done this?
    Where would I find the conversion parts to this? Any help on this will be appreciated.
     
  2. austingta

    austingta Well-Known Member

    The ST400 you might have is a good transmission. Will you be driving the car a lot?
     
  3. rmstg2

    rmstg2 Gold Level Contributor

    I suppose with the weird frame there is no room for a gear vendor?:Do No:

    Bob H.
     
  4. nekkidhillbilly

    nekkidhillbilly jeffreyrigged youtube channel owner

  5. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Most of us prefer the 200R4 over the 700 since it does not need the adapter plate....
     
  6. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Most of us prefer the 200r4 but there is a guy on here with a riv and a 700 trans so you can talk to him... Search "700r4 riv"
     
  7. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    ANY "Nail" will need an adapter to mount either trans. to the engine.
     
  8. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    To put a 200R4 or 700R4 in a Riv with a nailhead will probably require modification of the floor hump. By the time you put the adapter and a full size bell housing behind a nailhead, the trans will be back about 6" further than normal. I heard of guy who did it on a 66 Skylark GS and it was a lot of work. Your Riv should have 2.78 or so gears in it now. It should cruise OK with that without overdrive. If you put overdrive in you'll need to change the rear to at least 3.23 or your engine will bog. If your carburetor is the old Rochester style you will need to have the power valve changed to open at lower vacuum or the valve will be open at normal highway speeds. If your car has an AFB you will need weaker springs on your metering rods to match the lower vacuum levels your engine will have with overdrive. If you don't do the carb modification you will only see a 2 MPG gain, not the 4 to 5 MPG gain you are expecting.

    You need to consider if it's worth it. Like someone already said "how much will you be driving this car".
     
  9. black70buick

    black70buick Well-Known Member

    My much longer and larger 4L80E did not require a modification to the floor in my '70 Rivi. Doubt it would be a problem here. If it were a GV OD then that would be interesting. Knowing the size and dimensions of the 200 & 700 there would be room.
     
  10. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    I read the list of what a guy had to do to put a 200R4 in a Skylark GS and it included floor hump modification. Maybe a Riv has more room. Isn't a 4L80E a 700R4 with computer control (same size)?
     
  11. TexasT

    TexasT Texas, where are you from

    Code:
    
    
    4l60e = 700r4 with computer control
    4l80e = th400 with od and computer control

    2004r is a shorter alternative to a 700r4 but requires a knowledgeable builder . I like a 2004r for its 2.76 first gear. The 700r4 has a 3.06 first and a pretty big jump to second.

    Welcome to the forum, op.
     
  12. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    To put a 200-4R in a GS is about the simplest upgrade their is. It uses 350 drive shaft and 400 mount position. The TV cable is the only kink but there was nothing that needed to be done to the floorboard. I doubt a Riv that can have a turbo 400 in it will require any tunnel mods.

    Here's an ultrabell you can bolt onto a classic BOP engine but not a nailhead for the 700-R4. http://www.jegs.com/i/JW-Performance/564/92450-700/10002/-1?parentProductId=748597#moreDetails
     
  13. 8ad-f85

    8ad-f85 Well-Known Member

    I can't suggest where to get your parts.
    If you are looking for a mileage gain, a "simple" bolt-on change to lower the drive ratio will probably lose mileage, if you are already using the 2.78 suggested. Unless you drive 80 mph all the time.
    If your reasons for pursuing mileage are to save $, I guess the question goes back to "how much are you going to drive it?", as mentioned previously.
    I can think of ways of reaching that goal by using the amount of $ involved in a trans swap, by spending differently.
    Subject of a new thread maybe?
    Love to see these being driven. :)
     
  14. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    I have to interject here. 1st. off the standard ratio for a '64 Riv. is a 3.07. That can be found on the very bottom of the diff. housing in the center of the "Round" portion of the rear. An 07 would mean 3.07. A 23 would mean a 3.23 & so on. That is if no one has ever changed the gear ratio or swapped the carrier/pig assembly from another car. I have put 3.90 & 4.45 in my stock original housing/pig assembly. A posi diff. has a 3/4" square for the oil level fill/check. A non posi, open rear has a fill/check level plug that takes a 3/8ths. drive ratchet/extension square. A Gear Venders would be the better choice with the stock gears as there is only a 22% reduction in OD. The 700 is 30% & the 200 is 33%.
    A 1st. gen Riv. has a VERY deep tunnel to get the car as low as possible. Ever notice how high the driveshaft tunnel is in the rear seat area??? I would say a gear venders is possible with work & mods. The next would be the 700 as it is longer. The smallest would be the 200 as this would require the least amount of mods to the original floor/frame work. It would have to be built properly for the weight & torque it will be required to move around.
    If the stock gears are kept in this situation average cruise speed would have to be 80+ or can be held in 3rd. until the desired speed is reached & using the lock-up converter feature & only going into OD above 75MPH. Driving around in 3rd. with lock-up would give better MPG as RPM's would be lower. The stock "Nail" should have the required torque to pull it through.
    As an example using 3.90's & cruising at around 2800RPM's or less I could average about 15MPG. With the stock 3.07's I have gotten a best of 21MPG. Much depends on tune & MANY other variables & of course your right foot.
    Just my thoughts on the subject at hand.


    Tom T.
     
  15. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    Is it simple for a 65/66 Skylark GS with a 401? I know it's simple for a 300/340/350/400/455. I put one in my 69 Firebird, had to move the cross member back 6" and make a TV cable bracket. With a 401, part of the bell housing is cast on to the engine block. By the time you put a full bell housing behind the adapter the trans is way back there. I'll look at one of my 66s tomorrow but I don't think there's that much room. If it's that easy I'll do it.
     
  16. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    No, it takes all the same stuff it would take to put a 350 turob or a non-nailhead 400 turbo behind a nailhead. I was just saying the floorboard tunnel shouldn't need any work.
     
  17. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA


    I think you have the earlier Nail Head engines confused with the later ones. The years in question didn't have the trans bell cast in the block.


    Derek
     
  18. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    ALL "Nail" engines have a portion added to the rear of the block. I think it's about 1 5/16ths. inch. Add to that the thickness of the adapter, about 1-1 1/4", plus the additional length for the bellhousing you are now talking about 3 3/4"-3 7/8" plus the additional length of the total trans. length.
     
  19. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    If it's that easy I'll do it. I asked a guy with a 66 Skylark GS how he did it, and when he told me what he had to do I said forget it.
     
  20. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    with a 3.07 rear gear why bother with an overdrive anyway?
     

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