Ok folks..ANOTHER question. My aftermarket Sun oil pressure gauge is either wacky or I'm running seriously high oil pressure. It's nearly pegged at start up and goes down to about 75-80psi when warmed up. Rebuilt 350. PO added a "better oiling setup" as I recall because mentioned was weak point on these mills. Is it possible to have to high pressure or is my gauge off? It a three pod model wt temp and volt gauge
Is that a mechanical or electric gage? If mechanical, it would be a breeze to swap out another to compare (under the dash). If its electric, it could be the sender (tuff to get at) or even a bad ground. If its the latter, try a jumper with some alligator clips to the gage frame from a good (known) ground under the dash. 80 psi when hot is pretty high and can literally help "wash" out bearings... On the pump kit its also pretty easy to swap out the over pressure bypass valve. Mine is just the opposite; after a pump job the OP is disappointly lower than it should be. Theres shims in the pump (gaskets) that can alter pressure as well. T/A performance sells the shim kits... ws http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1505
I'd verify the guage is correct, possibly by plumbing in another, then I would pull the oil pump spring and bypass valve from oil pump, to verify you have the correct spring and the bypass is working. But I'm no expert. I'm sure others will chime in.... It could be possible that PO put a high volume pump gears in the pump housing, which is probably unnecessary on a new build. JIM/Rott
If you look at the pump and theres a 1/4" spacer plate between the housings, that's for taller gears making it a high pressure-high volume pump which you really don't need. The whole unit can be done externally. If the relief spring is a heavy one it will not open until a higher pressure is reached. You have some trouble shooting ahead! The 1" plug on the front (shown) holds the relief valve and spring. ws
Check what relief spring is being used. Take the big nut off (as shown in the first picture of the previous post), and make sure the previous owner did not put the stronger spring in. This can make the valve stick. Woops, I should of read the whole post above.
I had to google transmatte, and I'm still not fully aware what color that is. Tranmatte, best guess is nude.
Guy, I believe transmatte is someone's shorthand for "translucent" with a matte finish. Ya, I sat and thought about that way too much one afternoon..
There is a red spring included in some rebuild kits that if used, the pump will try to make 100 psi. You can see that spring in the TA Hi Volume/High Pressure kit for the 350, http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1505
It determines the maximum pressure the pump will make, cold, hot, whenever. Once the pressure gets high enough to open the valve, the pressure is limited. At idle, especially when hot, the pump doesn't push a big enough volume of oil to open that valve. If the pump is set up right with the proper clearances, it can at higher RPM even when everything is up to temperature.
How do you decide which spring to use? I'm at 40 plus COLD then less than 10 HOT. Could a lower rate improve idle pressure? It also takes 2 seconds for the "oil pressure" light to go off after starting.
Sounds like you have a stock spring. The Stage1 spring is 60 psi. It is white. 40 psi is not enough for higher RPM, above 4500 RPM. You want 11-12 psi /1000 RPM. Idle pressure is not as important as whether enough you have sufficient pressure for the highest RPM you plan to run the engine at. 2 seconds sounds normal to me. Changing springs will not effect your idle pressure, just the maximum high RPM pressure.
Got it . I need driving lessons. Never past 4500 rpm and need to learn the burnout, but I like too take a spin once in a while. What would have been the redline or where can I shift once in a while, or taching out on the freeway...3.64 and all. On a separate note... mechanical advance starting at 10 topping at 34 with 10 vacume could work?
