I have a freshly machined 350 4bbl on my current 68 skylark convertible project. The motor is all stock with the exception of the machining. The motor has been sitting for some time before I got it on the frame and so I decided to prime the oil pump with a drill. When I run the drill, which says it operates at 750 RPM, I observe oil very slowly trickling from the rockers but not as much as I have seen in some online videos. I've manually rotated the engine several times while spinning the drill and observed little change. There is currently no pressure gauge. I did put my volt meter on the oil pressure switch and it opens almost immediately after I spin the drill. 1. Am I good? 2. Is it the tightness of the new parts that makes the oil flow seem minimized?
Try a mechanical gauge, you don’t mention what oil weight? 10-30? You are getting pressure. the oil sender opens about 8 psi. . But you really won’t know much until engine is running at operating temperature. So go ahead and finish. No, the Buick rockers don’t squirt oil at a huge rate other engines do.
I put synthetic 10-40. I suspected it may just be the buick rockers. Videos I have seen have been chevys. Thanks for the confirmation.
I don't see a problem, you can't expect to see oil flowing from the rockers at a decent rate until the engine is running. I'd make sure you get a REAL oil pressure gauge on it before you intend to run the engine.
Well, I feel drag almost right away. The pressure switch opens really quickly also. Its a pretty stout 1/2 drill.
I have a small mechanical Gage Tee ed off the port where to oil pressure switch goes which is the simplest Gage setup. imo
sounds like I'm good but I'll put a gauge on it before I start the engine. It's going to be a while though... Thx for the inputs
Don’t forget, flat tappet cams really prefer zzdp additive ,synthetic oils don’t usually have much zzdp. Especially for engine break in. Some break in additive is a must on fresh engine
I'll check into that. I'm using castrol. I had one of these in the way back and only used mobile 1 in it. That was circa 1975 and I bought it with ~40K miles on it. That engine went over 300K. Thanks
https://www.drivenracingoil.com/br30-break-in-5w-30-motor-oil-quart.html https://www.drivenracingoil.com/hr2-10w-30-conventional-hot-rod-oil.html https://www.drivenracingoil.com/
Those oils are really good. Or atleast an additive for breakin. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/red-81403 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10063-1 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99003-1
Here's what Castrol said: "Classic cars with flat tappet cam engines represent a special case in regard to engine oil lubrication. These engines have valve train configurations that require elevated levels of ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate) anti-wear for proper protection of the flat tappet camshaft and its lifters. Insufficient concentration of ZDDP will lead to premature wear and failure of the camshaft and lifters. Current GF-4 and GF-5 fuel economy grade engine oils are designed for extended life of the catalytic convertors in modern passenger cars and have industry mandated limitations on the amount of sulfur and phosphorus within the oil. Only Castrol EDGE 5W-50 has a boosted level of ZDDP (1250 ppm) to help protect flat tappet cam engines in classic cars. This engine oil is a full synthetic, has excellent cold temperature properties, and has a high temperature viscosity (SAE 50) that is suitable for use in many classic car applications. Castrol always recommends following the guidelines of the engine manufacturer for the recommended oil (i.e. SAE grade, API rating and manufacturer specifications) specific to your application. Please consult your mechanic/engine rebuilder as to the suitability of the 5W-50 viscosity grade in your engine. Thank you again for contacting Castrol, we value your patronage!" Appreciate everyone's input. Thanks
That’s some good information there. It’s alittle thick for Buick engines. I would atleast get a 40 weight.
yes clearly, I'll go with the additive for now. I'll try and select and all in one product after break in.
The zppp additive molicules does not mix in to the oil until at about full operating temp. the at cool down it separates. so what good is it SNAKE oil. if you use a zddp additive in standard off the shelf oil and think your doing good.... be my guest. May as well just add fine metal shavings in your motor..
