Was told to pick up pressure reading from the back of the block, ok no biggie, but I'm concerned about the braided line in close proximity to the flexplate, and about a leak from the fittings needed to do the install. Is it a more realistic reading than from the front of the block?
Zero leaks from the fittings at all. The fitting that is on the outside of the block, is drilled through, so the tubing slides right through it, and was then swedged on. It's one piece of tubing.
Thanks Ivan I'm going to do my set up like that. I'm leery of a flexible braided line back there, tho I'm sure its fine, but I like the steel line better.
New engine. Never tried the front connection to compare them, but off the back, it has 80 psi pressure when cold, and can go past 100 psi, if you rev it up a bit. (Documented that in the first couple videos we shared.) When it's good and hot, it still has 60 psi of oil pressure at about 1500 rpm.
I put 90 weight gear lube in my engine. Got 120 psi cold and 95 psi hot. Still knocks like crazy and timing chains only last 12 miles.
Kidding of course. There's virtually no way the pressure could be higher at the rear. I'll bet if you were to connect 2 gauges you would crap yourself at the rear reading.
So that's one piece of tubing the whole length with just a swedge in the middle. Gonna have to cut if off if it ever needs replacing
Oil pressure at the rear of the block is lower. How much lower? Depends on bearing clearances. From what I can recall, anywhere from 5-15 psi lower.
That is way more than you need, especially for the SBB. I wouldn't be revving any engine while cold. It takes power to pump cold oil, and it loads up the front of the engine. Puts more stress on the front cam bearing, timing chain and cam/distributor drive gears. I'd back off the regulator, or use a different spring, or thinner oil. You don't ever want to see 100 psi on a street engine. There is no reason for it, and you are wasting power as well as stressing parts.
