In my opinion the OEM pan with the exhaust crossover cutout at the rear is very marginal for anything past stock, even with a baffle. The minimum I feel should be TA replacement pan that does not have the cutout in the rear. This is important as it helps control the oil and holds more oil to start with. Also baffles are a must..... not only a wide one at the rear, but also one in the front to help keep the pickup covered under deceleration. I've built well over 1000 Buick oil pans and have never built one without baffles, front and rear. (except of course for the dry sump versions).
The oil is the life blood of the whole motor so anything you can do to help the oil system do its intended job is worth it long term even if it does not add any overall power! A pan with baffles and or a Crank scraper is worth atleast 5 hp above 4500 rpm . Always remember this fact, good oil control means minimal air in the oil and oil being a liquid can not be compressed until air gets in it which can be compressed. Once too much air gets in the oil it can not keep the highly loaded Rod bearings from riding on the Crank journals, or the Crank from riding on the main Bearings. At that point it's burned and or spun Bearing time!
Steve Reynolds’s (SRE) Oil Pans and or oil pan modifications are “Second to None” in design as well as quality craftsmanship, ..... Period. Larry
Can those new TA pans be used in a 67 skylark? I know the frame and such are small on that series and I am concerned with clearance of a larger pan on this car.
