had a issue today with oil dripping out of the exhaust side of the turbo. wasnt sure if it was caused by excessive oil in the return line. i usally let my turbo oil return pump run for 10 secs before i start and 10 after i shut it down. i had a ussue today with the fuel pump and the car would start. crank it over a bunch of times with the oil return pump not running. i am thinking that i pumped the turbo full of oil and over flowed it. i let it run for a bit and the oil wasent dripping any more.. took it for a ride and when i got on it smoked pretty good like running real rich. wasent dripping oil once i parked it and let it idle. i should have plugged in my fast controller to see a/f ratio. i think i might put a one way check valve on the return line. anyone know of a one way check valve for a 3/8 oil line? What are you forced injected guys running for a/f @ idle/ mid throttle / wot? i pulled a plug and the motor is def running rich. i am running a csu 4150 750cfm. i havnt messed with the idle mixture screws or any jets due to i want to get a baseline on my fast controller. i am running for timing 32 degress lock in with a msd dist and 6btm box. any help always apprectiated Paul from mass 1966 skylarkgs turbo 401 nailhead w/garrett t67 turbo
From all the reading I've done on my GTO forum, whenever oil starts spewing out of the turbo in these rear mounts its usually because a restrictor isn't being used and you're pumping too much oil into it and it blew through the seals.
been out in the garage for about a hour, started the car and had a nice small puddle of oil out of the back. stuck my finger in it and it was watered down because of condensation. thier must be some left over oil in the exhaust housing from when the pump wasent working properly. I do run a restrictor right before the turbo that i bought right from sts when i was building the kit. I ran the car for about 35-40 mins, never got past 190f idling in the garage.Longest time i have ran the car since i have rebuilt the engine. I set timing @32 degrees locked in.(starts real hard when hot, any tips to help that? was told to keep it locked in) i hooked up the fast wideband 02 sensors and started tuning @ idle before making any adjustments i was @ 9.6:1.. no wonder why i was so rich and puffing smoke.. i should be at 13.5 @idle and 12.5 mid throttle and 11.0-11.5 under boost and wot. i am finally getting the bug now that the weather is nice to get her done. Paul 66larkgs turbo 401 nailhead
I'd suggest an ignition box with a starting retard option. I know my MSD Digital6 box has a -20 degree starting option for below 400rpm if I choose that selection.
I did not no that... How did you set that up? i run a msd 6btm box.. i will start to do a little research.. thank you for the tip!!:beers2: Paul 66larkgs turbo 401 nailhead
I use a Mallory 6 box with start retard.. Idle 12.5.. Mid throttle 12.5. Cruise 14 ish.. WOT about 11.5-12.. Spraying methanol too.. Blow through carb. 34* initial, locked (10* start retard).. Pulling 4* with 8lbs of boost.. And running 12* of ported advance.. So it cruises with 46* of timing.. Same place it would be if you had really light springs..
46* degrees seems like way too much timing.. i run 32-34* locked in with no vacuum or mechanical advances. why would you want to advance it so much when under boost. i know the methanol will cool the burn and prevent detonation, but i never heard of that much timing.. i thought that too much can send your power numbers the other way. i would think you would want more boost/less timing. What are the advantages of this much timing? just picking your brain... Paul 66larkgs turbo401 nailhead
Oh no no no no.. Not under boost.. While cruising...with 8lbs of boost the PORTED vacuum is no longer activated..With a vacuum reading of less than 5 lbs I'm back at the 34* fixed because the ported vacuum advance is no longer activated . Then as the boost comes on the Malory box pullls 4 * and I'm down to 30* with boost..And methanol.. This works so well I wouldn't dare touch it.. So, if you had a NA car and had 22* initial and 12 * of mechanical advance all in by 2500 rpm and ran a ported advance with 12* you would cruise at about 46* with a 2800 stall and as soon as you hit the gas it would drop to 34*.. Make sense??
Do you use a catch can/breather? I use: from the turbo out, a 8" 10an line with a (4 inch drop) into a Sweet Mfg, breather/catch can, then a Tilton hot oil pump from the other side of the catch can, back to the oil pan. Feed line is 4an and no restriction. The breathing catch can holds about a quart of oil. It does not take long to pump the catch can full if the pump is off. 1 quart in 30 seconds? It will never back up the turbo drain line, The path of least resistance is to pour out the breather onto the wife’s side of the garage floor. Done it lots of times. Makes a big 'ole mess. If you do not have a restriction (pump off and no catch can could be a restriction), I would be looking at the seals and bearings. :beer
If anyone does rear mount turbo, or just some really low mounted fronts...anything that requires a scavenge or oil pump should just get oil-less turbos, basically just self contained oil like superchargers. They are a lil expensive but barely more than what a normal turbo, and scavenging/pump system would cost, plus you have one less thing to worry about.
i use 4 an feed with a restrictor / 1-2 psi check valve so the feed doesnt gravity feed the turbo. the return is a 3/8 line that i do a 4 inch loop and come up 8inches than across the frame and to the oil pump which is about 2.5 -3 feet from the turbo. i do not run a catch can or a aluminum oil cooler. i did buy but has not installed it yet. it is a 14" long 3 inch diameter aluminum finned oil cooler that i was going to mount but was concerned about keeping a consistant amount of oil in the pan at all times. i run 40psi and 20psi at the turbo. i bought a turbowerx exa pump(http://www.turbokraft.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=90). it is capable of 3gpm. for the last few days i have been starting the pump before i start the car for about 10 secs and let it run for about 10 secs after i shut it down and i havent had any more oil out of the back. but i def want to put a catch can so the oil between the oil pump and the turbo wont bleed back into the turbo. problem is the turbo is low and i have to put the catch can above the turbo. i would think that it would defeat the purpose and by having a larger volume to suck because of the extra space of the cooler i would think line pressure would drop. looking for others people input and opinion.. wish i would have bought a self contained... sometime i wish i didnt have to be so different and would have put the turbo up front. but it finished now and just working out the small bugs. Paul 66larkgs turbo 401 nailhead
it makes sense.. i was thinking when you were on it you were at 46* thats when i was like huh.. i am set @34* with an adjustable msd6btm so i can pull up to 3* per a 1psi of boost. i have it set at 1:1 right know until i get it on the dyno..
If I read correctly you have a 3/8 line for the oil drain of your turbo? If so, that is your problem right there. That and having the line ran UP to the pump.
The 3/8 line for the return line is what sts uses in thier rear mount turbo kit. i have seen some other guys run a -8an line from the turbo to pump, than a 3/8 from the pump to the pan. I was out in the garage earlier and was plaing with the rear suspension and i got the pump pretty level with the turbo, the return line has to have a loop to prevent oil backup.. i may switch to a 1/2 line or a 8-an from the turbo to the oil return pump. does anyone run a one way check valve in the return??
