Got my 8.00 chinaman tubing bender yesterday; FREE SHIPPING! Its BONER approved too. It actually works within reason. I Fully expected the handle to bust off at first use but it stayed intact. If I get 20 bends outa it Ill be happy! I only need it for 5/16 tubing. I have a full compliment of Parker-Hannifin benders except that one! After some serious consideration, being able to say Mine is bigger than yours (camshaft that is!) I decided to just have Terry order me a more suitable unit. Numbers are blah blah blah but its about two licks better than a stock Stage 1 cam. Im good with that. I now have a "hot" lightly used cam for sale. Finished up with the front suspension with a grease job yesterday. Lotsa cleaning on the front brakes and a wheel bearing re-pack... took a while to clean out the grease turned wax, but all the stuff was perfect. Every now and then ya gotta play make believe. Its the kid in me. Put one of the rally wheels on the front and actually had to measure to verify that its a 7" width. Really looked like more. Found some goody's in the parts cans in the back seat. One in a million. I still need an antenna mast. Any ideas on the shifter handles? The stubby bolts on and the bench seat handle has two big holes and a wedge that goes down into the Comp + shifter. Today Im gonna tackle the firewall. remove all the clamps and stuff, clean and paint and re-assemble. Its gonna be good to have a clean shop to build and install the new motor! Dont forget Kane County swap meet is this SUNDAY! BE THERE! ws
Brake lines are 1/4 and 3/16, parts store will have the master cylinder fittings so you can eliminate the adapter
Glad yer watching... Thats a NEW not r/b MC for a 1969(?) Skylark, and the front line is 5/16" and the rear is 3/8" (9/16 on the thread size). Its larger than the front and needs to be a 5/16" into the T block on the frame. The T block to both fronts is in fact 3/16" and the T block aft to the hose is 1/4" to the T back there and then 3/16 to each rear wheel. Thats an original T block off a 1967(?) GS400. Then entire system on the original 1964 was 3/16, except from the MC to the block was 1/4. ws
There are no 5/16 or 3/8 lines in the brake system Bill, just 3/16 out of mc down to the block and out to the front wheels, then 1/4in out of mc down to the block out to the back hose then 3/16 out of the hose on the axle That's why I mentioned the MC fittings they are larger thread, smaller tube size, to better accommodate servicing and more psi to the line when tightening
Are they sized by inside diameter like plumbing? If so, 3/16" would be 3/16" inside and look like 5/16" and 1/4" might look close to 3/8" on the outside.
Tubing is always measured on the OD. Pipe is measured on the ID at schedule 40 and then the ID changes with schedule wall thickness. You can take 1/2 black pipe and its "about" 1/2 on the inside, then take 1/2 schedule 180 (!) and it may be 3/8 on the ID. Thats for hydraulic and steam stuff. 180 is usually a welded connection. Thats all SME. Car stuff is SAE. https://www.google.com/search?sourc...wiz.....0..35i39j0j0i131j0i3j0i10.zN7k2d4qJV0 Ive never seen MC tubing with fittings before. Maybe Ill stump the counter kid today. I always save cut off fittings from tubing jobs, and these are what fit into the MC and the T on the frame. Yes, Ill agree, that the 5/16 seems inordinately large, and 3/8 would seem wayy too big. For shoots and giggles, I was just out in the shop to turn the heat on and MICd the 5/16 tubing and it came in at .3125". The 3/16 would sure be easier to fit around the MC. IIRC, the '72 shop manual mentions a 1/4 line to the rear from the T. I'll confirm that later. ws Just pulled this from the archives. On the '72, it appears that the front line is in fact 3/16 with a larger male nut and a 1/4 line on the back with a larger nut, hence the MC fittings. Hmm These are OEM lines (note the spring wrap). I did not change these lines, and remembered that the rear axle hose was indeed 1/4 tubing to the axle T and then 3/16 to the wheels.
Thanks for the lessons on tubing sizes guys! I'm more familiar with plumbing stuff. Copper tubing for waterlines is ID. 1/2" is close to 5/8 outside, 3/4" close to 7/8". I say close to as I have never micd it. Black pipe like you mentioned Bill. PVC is ID also. Haven't used the schedule 180, didn't realize the inside was that much smaller. Goes to show we can always learn if we will! Question Bill, what color is on the master cylinder? Or is that a primer?
Hey Mike.... dont forget that copper PIPE is measured on the inside while copper tubing (KL and KM? thinwall and heavy) is measured on the OD... PVC is like steel pipe and comes in schedules also... Whenever I change a MC out, they all get cleaned externally and then clear coated with clear rustoleum, like 4-5X. The caps too. That cast iron likes to sweat and that makes rust!
Hey there Bill, I meant to ask about the color on the booster, wrote master cylinder. MC looks great! I hear you on the rust issue. I didn't want that happening on my new one either, so I cleaned mine real good and coated it with Eastwood's brake grey. Looks very similar to yours. 3 years and still looks like new! So let me ask over, what is on your brake booster? Doesn't appear to be cad. Nice progress on the car!
Thanks Mike! For 1964, the OEM booster finish was silver galvanized. Mine wasnt too bad but after I cleaned it up with a wire brush, most of the remainder finish just didnt look right. I ended up painting it with a rustoleum BRIGHT ZINC, different than the zinc primer, and then clear coating that. I know it aint perfect, but then this isnt a restoration either. Im good with it and swing tools around doing brake lines etc., it seems pretty durable. ws
Wasn't saying anything bad about it, just curious. Sometimes it's hard to tell what you actually see compared to pictures. I tried to post some pics for you of my '64 but not having any luck.
NICE! When I started this guy, I wanted to build something with BB power and a 4 speed. Looked at a ton of "affordable" chevelles with BBCs and "roached out" doesnt even begin to describe! Pat and i were literally scouring the country for the right one and NADA. We happened upon the 64 Special Delux 50 miles from home with 33K on the clock, owned by gramma, who kacked in 1980, then it sat. Its a veritable time capsule. Surface rust from sitting yet all the chrome is way better than driver quality and the interior is about +99%. I couldnt go wrong. In 2013, I bought the '72 XGS. After owning at least 10 BBB GS's I never managed to get into a GSX. The knock off was affordable, BUT, the previous owner did a frame off resto in 1990, then parked it in a dirt floor Morton Building 20+ years. It was a gonner again by the time I got it. Looks can be deceiving, so I plan to not restore this one, rather to get it on the road in its original past glory LOL (patina mode). I still dont like neglected rusty junk however and clean and paint as I go along. Believe you me, a retirement budget has a lot to do with it, but its all good. Please follow aklong and pipe up if you see something worth mentioning! I am also on 65GS.com but things are a little slow over there. I sure hope spring gets here soon, but not before I can get this thing going! Bill
I remember following along on your build thread on the '72. Interesting project! You did well on the '64 IMO! It should turn out to be a nice car!
Thanks!... Its STILL fun after 2 months LOL. Cant wait to start building that motor. So for todays quiz, I need a few things IDENTIFIED puhleez! My T-10 came with a really short Muncie stalk and I got a bench seat Hurst for the project, but the mount is entirely different. What the heck is it for??? Should I cut it and re-weld it? The carb I got with the 455 is an odd Q-jet; what is it please?? Should I "SC" it and look for another? I know its a 1977 Pontiac 800 cfm-auto trans carb, but whats the ARN for?? ws
Got my new BMD 455 experimental manifold today. I can lift this one with a single finger! Thanks OHC Joe! Also did a little fill in on the 2019 WW paint code Cobalt Blue base with clear. Also need to thank HUGGER for spanking my weewee LOL. Ive always dealt with tubing that came with a given size of fitting. It never dawned on me that there's different thread sizes versus tubing sizes. Live and learn eh?? ws
Thanks Pal! Posted some stuff in parts and leads for you tonight. Let me know if you need anything. Im 1-1/2 hours north ... ws
So can anyone help with the carbonator part? Is this 1977 Ponch 800 q-jet wirth doing anything with, if even just to rebuild for an initial start up on the 455? I know itran well enough on the 455 in a 51 Buick to spin the crap outa a few rod bearings, but kids will be kids LOL... As usual, Ill be the Lobo de SOLO on the shifter handle. ws
