Yo Steve... Just talked to Pat in Mo. and she's due back here in 48 hrs. So far, interstate travel is still allowed, but Illinois and several other states are "highly recommending" to hunker down in place. We're pretty well stocked here as far as consumables are concerned, and if the city shuts off the water, 5 gallon buckets are available outa the lake 500 feet away. Self Rationing is the word for the day; if it comes to that. Keep your fuel tank for the genny full with extra, and keep the load "low". I would guess yer on a well no? So gas is 1.69 in Springfield Mo. right now and cartons of Pall Malls are about 34.00 Up here a carton is at least 70.00 for the El Ropos. My return CARE package is 12 cartons, 10 bottles of wine, 3000 .22's and a few hundred .45's Pat sure pulls here weight with "purveying"! Im just a PERV... need to step up huh? So yesterday I finished up my gallon of clear, but wasnt satisfied with the roof. There were a few "light" areas, so I opened my extra quart and used about 1/4 of that on the roof. Turned out to be "acceptable". Altho theres still a few dust mites in the clear, if we are hunkered down, I may just sand the car with 2000 and buff it. Probably should do that anyway. So I'm still liking the shark gills! Like 'em or not they are here to stay LOL. Good luck guys; look out for #1 as always and the rest too! ws
So I had to ad a few more pics... I cut the tires loose so it looks more presentable. I feel like a bull in a china shop; the stuff looks soooo wet, but is dry to the touch. Still soft enough to leave a thumbprint tho. For the better part, the masking tape came off well. It was all tucked under the trim etc. with a bondo spreader. I was going to town on it at first and forgot to lift it off the masked side first, hence the particle stuck under the trim. Ethan, is there a metaphor for removing the tape? ROTTFYAH Roll Off The Trim First You A$$ Hole ? LOL. Gonna let the stuff settle for a few days before digging in. ws Added: The crud on the motor and wheels is body shop dust; filler and sanding etc covered with paint stuff. It all wipes off rather easily... if not? Plenty of time to redo THAT too!
Bill, color sanding with just 2000 will for the most part be a waste of time if the plan is to flatten the surface for buffing, which I assume it is. You need to cut it down in stages but it also depends on how many coats of clear you put on. I usually start with 800, then 1000, then 1500, then 2000, then you can buff it. The coarser grit will cut it flat, the progressive grits basically just remove the scratches from the previous grits to the point where it needs very little buffing. This will give you the glass smooth show car finish you no doubt desire but I might as well warn you, not like you don't already know this, but it's a lot of work. It's also worth it in the end.
Hey Bill... For the better part, we'll call the CC coverage about 3-4x. Theres plenty there for a sand and buff. Theres a few "errant" dust fibers in the finish, and speck here and there, but for the best part is clean and shiny. The worst culprits are the flat top surfaces; hood, roof trunk and fender tops. Theres very minor orange peel on the sides, which Im not in the least concerned with, unless we are on lockdown for a few months. Im thinking about letting the job sit for a week or two before cutting it. I have an old Milwaukee buffer with a good wool bonnet, and 3M finesse-it II, and some other in between polishes, say around the 2000 range. Still plenty to do with rugs and insides, bumpers and trim etc etc. I have been looking at stuff from Griot's Garage. Nice small handy, accessible, and easy to control stuff plus the pads and polish etc. Look at the 3" unit for spot work. Should be adequate for what I need. This is the last hurrah for this cowboy LOL...Whatcha tink eh? Bill https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk01h-CXqEmV0Nf0abB5DkjZkih6MkQ:1584801471926&source=hp&ei=vyZ2XrmENsLVtAah5pPoBw&q=griots+polisher&oq=&gs_l=psy-ab.1.6.35i362i39l10.0.0..5119...2.0..0.0.0.......0......gws-wiz.....10.niTVjyMoir8
Try this one, or one similar. I know, Harbor Freight sells mostly junk but you're about my age and you're not going to be using a buffer for a living so why not save yourself some money and get one for a 3rd of the cost. I've used one of these when my 40 year old Sioux buffer finally quit and I needed to finish a job that day so I borrowed one from a friend. It's really not a bad buffer. https://www.harborfreight.com/merch...heavy-duty-variable-speed-polisher-64807.html
Putzing around in the shop today, I managed to fill a contractor bag with masking stuff, and a general clean up call. Took the dial caliper and measured some masking tape at .005"; another chunk with all the paint coatings on it measured .015 and .020" respectively. I'm guessing about <.005" of CC on the last app. Is that enough to sand safely? (8oo-1500 ish??) I have an excellent Milwaukee 7" buffer ($279.00 about 20 years ago) but the dang thang is heavy. That Griots' unit is a random orbital variable speed for sanding as well in a 3" pad and single handed. Im thinking for the dust fibers, to get on them individually, then a total wetsand and a polish job. I hope I'm looking at this correctly. Am I on the right track? Found 3 small runs and started back scraping them while still a bit soft and to mark them so I can find them again; yes, they are slight. The one is almost down to an 800 sand on a block level. CC needs to settle for a few more days before I do that. The small DA is a 5". Theres always the jitterbug using a 1/3 sheet setup. Thoughts?? As I mentioned above, most of the dust is on the flat work with the runs on the verticals. Unless we are on lockdown, I really dont want to do the whole thing by hand. Should I bite the bullet and do the whole thing?? Still have plenty to do besides that. I really appreciate the coaching guys! Painted bunches of stuff, just never in to them this far! I hafta compete with the likes of Luke's Muskrat LOL... Bill....
I can't really advise you on the jitterbug, I've never used one. Or any other mechanical method for color sanding. I've always done everything by hand and still do as I've faced the fact that there are no shortcuts if I want to do the job right. Yup, those old buffers are heavy and you definitely know you've been using one at the end of the day. My old Sioux was the same way but like many other tools they practically become an extension of our hands and when one finally gives up it's like loosing family member. The new cheap buffers are light and it takes time to get used to them but they work. The way I figure it, I'm 65 and no longer need things like buffers to last a lifetime so the cheap one will do. And if one gives up I'll just go buy another one. To answer another question, yes, IMO you should do the whole car. It doesn't have to be done in a day so take your time. In the end you'll be happy that you did. It sounds like you have ample clearcoat to work with but still need to be careful on the edges. I generally don't go too near the edges until I get to the 1500 grit. Concentrate on step one, the 800 grit to cut it flat. The rest will be much easier because all you're doing at that point is removing the scratches from the previous grit.
Thanks Bill... so its back to "breaking the glaze" I guess... The J'bug isnt bad. Its variable speed and you just let the weight do the work. Its just orbital and runs about a 1/2" orbit. ws
Bill, you've come this far. Don't short cut it now. Do as the other Bill says. Start with 800, then take the steps all the way down to 2000 before buffing. This is wet (WET) sanding only. Watch the corners, bodylines, and edges to avoid burn through. I give myself about 1/4" safety zone around the body lines and corners until I get to 1500 grit. I've never used a machine to color sand, only by hand. There's too much work there to experiment, do what is tried and true.
I agree... its a lot cheaper than getting that weekly manicure done to look my best too LOL. I just showed the neighbor guy (another gear head) and when I opened the door he said "HOLY FORK". Ive used a Holy Spoon for macaroni in the pot, but never a Holy Fork... Hmmm. Hows that supposed to work? . If I couldve painted it in a vacuum, it would be a work of art; seems a shame to sand on it, but the dust mites really blow! The buffing is gonna be worse than the sanding. ws
I love buffing a fresh paint job really get to see your work finished up nice and pretty, and the first couple cuts really make a difference, so quick gratification.
Im always up for instant gratification... So how long should that CC settle out for before hitting it with the BELT SANDER LOL? ws
I was hoping that you were gonna jump in Ethan! Is that to let the solvents gas off some more before trying melt, ah, er, buff the final? That S-O-D-A thing is still going through my head! Worked for me and even built some confidence back up! On another note, Ive been looking around for an air cleaner for the ol' gal. I saw one that was listed as a 1968, one year only BUICK GS air cleaner. Hmmm. Unobtanium. So now, there was a sold listing at the bottom here for a 1973 GS Stage I and I immediately recognized the AC Im looking for! I had one back in 1975 with a 4 speed, but the AC style eluded me. There has to be one laying around where somebody tossed it up into the rafters in favor of an Edelhoser job thats guaranteed to increase mileage and lower ET's. Interested in one that just hasnt been run over by a truck. Looking more for the front horns. ws
Exactly you want to let it breathe for a little bit,..if jump on it with a buffer rite now,. While it will buff easier its gonna haze out within days even hours
OK... now onto cutting and buffing 101... Start out with about 800 and a wet sponge by hand? Advance up to 1200-1500 then buff? Will my 3M Finesse-it be the polish to use or something more aggressive? I have some stuff that actually feels sandy between the fingers. Ultimately, when sanded, am I looking for a uniform dull finish or just enough to take the nubs off before polishing... Got nothing but time now LOL... The pics were from the first go-around with 600. Also wondering about a random orbital buffer? I have a smaller 5" D/A with a wool bonnet. Is foam easier to manipple-ate ? ws
3m 6085 is the best easiest to use compound ..I like foam myself,..but sometimes I'll start out with wool The orbital is great for polish
So we all settled down for a long winters'nap... well most of us. Im lucky, I get to play google home audio on the wifi here. Today it was "Hey google, play Debbie Harry". I got a German radio station with her describing her music career all in German. A few minutes of dialogue, then a few songs. Pretty different and didnt hear corona virus even once. Just a quick tour of the shop today. Got the hood completely sanded with 600 for the bumps, then plenty of 1200 for the finesse part. I think it looks good, but do I really, honestly, positively need to go to 1500? ws
Do the 1500 Bill, then the 2000. Then buff and polish. You're almost there, and you'll thank us. If you don't do it, will you notice? Probably not. But if you do, you most definitely will be able to see the difference. There's going to be scratches from the 600 you'll see at an angle. Don't wax it for a couple months, probably 3 since it's not summer. And you'll be golden, Ponyboy.
