Off on a 'Lark...

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by yachtsmanbill, Dec 23, 2018.

  1. UticaGeoff

    UticaGeoff Well-Known Member

    Yeah Bill - another month in sunny Fla before going home. Then to get the re-rebuilt JW motor installed,with 552 hp this time. Fingers crossed.

    UticaGeoff
     
  2. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Excellent! Im hoping for about 425-450 with all the iron stuff. Should still be a monster in a <3500lb car. ws
     
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  3. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    Bill, yeah...I see the problem now. Those clamps look like the will work for you. As long as it's tied down it should be ok.
     
  4. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Its a closun'! The 72 is buried so deep under all the AC stuff plus the overflow tank/shroud deal that you hafta go by feel. Not very "mechanic friendly". ws

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  5. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    [​IMG]

    Hody hody ho...

    New chinaman 1 wire alternator installed. Side cutters to the OEM charging system. Good. re-wrapped all the wires. Good. No more firewall voltage regulator; another FM gawn. Engine cranks with 12VDC to the HEI. Wipers and washers work. Signals work. and the dang dome light even works on the door and DASH switches.
    Getting closer every day!~ ws


    Switch ON, Magneto ON! Fuel on!
    CLEAR PROP !!



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  6. Donuts & Peelouts

    Donuts & Peelouts Life's 2 Short. Live like it.

    GO BILL GO!!!!!
     
  7. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Thanks Ronnie! Just trying to get as much installed/finished while the sheet metal is off. Sooo much easier to sit on a roller stool and do this stuff... need a wrench? Wheel over to the box. Once the core support and other front stuff start getting built, it gets really small up there. Then its floor work which I cant do well anymore! ws
     
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  8. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    [​IMG]


    Thanks to TrunkMonkey for turning me on to Pegasus Racing stuff! Job went well! Cleaned and painted driveshaft ready for the gas ax. ws


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  9. crazychevy

    crazychevy Gold Level Contributor

    Looking good Bill.
     
  10. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Bill,

    As for the rag joint. Did you hook-up the grounding wire that connects between the two bolts??? IF you did not the horn won't work & trying to do it afterwards will be kinda difficult.

    Tom T.
     
    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  11. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    VERY GOOD TOM! Yes I did! Larry Bluezilla told me about that on the '72... No wire on that rather a ground strap around the joint. I didnt realize that was for the horn tho. Hmm. On the 72 I figured probably for the column switch(s) etc. Grounds are a peculiar animal arent they?

    FWIW... I did hook it up including a star washer that was in there, but I will PROVE it later today with an OHM meter. Thanks for reminding me! Bill
     
  12. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member

    I don't know how you guys get drive shafts built so cheap. I am going to need a new custom built one for my ride here soon.

    I went and talked to a guy at a local shop here awhile back and he said it would be around $500 or so.

    Another member of our 61-63 group had one built after his tranny swap and cost him $500 as well.

    So is it a who you know kinda thing or how you sweet talk them or?

    Inquiry minds want to know!

    Keith
     
  13. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    .you can get an aluminum one built by the driveshaft shop or dynatech for $485, steel is around $350
     
    Bill Nuttle likes this.
  14. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    [​IMG]

    Keith... Call Drive Shaft Service Co. in Westmont and ask for Steve Goodson. He's the owner and a high school buddy. He's around 63rd and Cass ave. Say high for me. Its been 30 years + and he WILL remember me!

    So now for todays FM... (freaking mystery). When I pulled the 3 speed out of the car, I measured it alongside the T-10. The T-10 was 1-1/2" longer (via a crude measurement, so I figured theres the DS job. So today, with the T400 (T-10 yoke) and an accurate measurement, I came up with 59-1/2". I measured a good accurate length on the DS and it was 59-1/2 CtoC on the joints. Theres an 1/8" of fudge factor at least with the yoke. The yoke has 1-1/8" exposed (fresh oil seal area) and that leaves 2-1/2" inside the tailshaft. I did jack up the free hanging differential to the ride height. It was actually up and off and free of the jackstands.

    I lowered it 1/2" to rest it before diving in. I measured this stuff 1/2 dozen times and always the same. All I can say is the yoke is that much longer??? IDEAS???

    Took the Sawzmostof-it to the exhaust system and one cut it was out. Now I can sweep the floor clean daily!

    Pulled the entire rear brake line system apart for new pipes and a hose. Thats a cake walk without that old mouse house laying there. Blew all the crap outa the wheel cylinders, and can now do that stuff back there. The rear brakes are another time capsule. Drums came right off. Tomorrow is rear shocks and springs and clean and paint.

    Todays quiz: Whats the weatherstrip from? It was in the trunk and is just about (+ or -) as wide as the rear hood lip? ws

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    1972Mach1 and UticaGeoff like this.
  15. 1972Mach1

    1972Mach1 Just some M.M.O.G. guy.....

    r
    Yoke has to be a different length, or the motor mounts put the 455/4 speed output at the same spot that the old little engine/3 speed were, I'd say......When swapping my main squeeze Mustang from my 351 Cleveland/FMX to a C6 auto, and then later the big block that's in it now with a different C6, I never had to modify the driveshaft, even though in theory I should have had to cut or lengthen at least twice for a total of 3 driveshaft lengths. I just considered it a lucky coincidence or engineering that the factory mounts put everything in the right spot so a guy got to run the same shaft length. I'm betting the factory didn't want to have to make a bunch of different shaft lengths for different combos....now, your car never having been available with a BBB, I'm not sure, but I'd bet the motor mount makers were probably doing a similar swap and placed it all thusly. (I THINK you got custom mounts from somewhere, but didn't go back and read to find out, and it's been many beverage filled nights since then)

    EDIT: and oh, yeah, old crusty exhaust is fantastic, isn't it? At least it's easy to cut through, but you'll be sweeping up random rust from nowhere for days.....

    EDIT #2: Dammmmm....your engine compartment is going to look great when you pop the hood buddy.
     
  16. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Thanks Luke... That was a good idea about the mounts, but the Z bar and bellhousing face and all the clutch stuff are in exactly the same spot as the OEM V6 was. Ride height loading on the rear end shouldve put it exactly where it was. You think that 2-3/4" entrance onto the spline is enough? Just an FM pal, just an FM.

    Still debating about tires. Pat said I can go charge a set at the Fart & Fleet store.:eek: They do BFG's and Coopers there. The Coopers are 2/3 what the BFGs are. ws

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    Last edited: Apr 10, 2019
  17. 1972Mach1

    1972Mach1 Just some M.M.O.G. guy.....

    Has to be the yoke then, my friend. Can't be anything else.
     
  18. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

    Thats no YOKE Olie! ws
     
  19. 197064buickspec

    197064buickspec 1964 Special Post-455


    I had one built from a local shop for my sportwagon. Darryl Dupre Inc in Rockdale ,IL. From memory is was about $300. That was. For just a standard shaft. They asked what I was going to be running. They could have built one for high HP.... I said no need.

    The prior owner had made one out of a fence post....it would shake your fillings out from the vibration.
     
  20. yachtsmanbill

    yachtsmanbill Well-Known Member

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