Thanks for the thoughts Geoff! She told me to thank you as well. she's a friggin' trooper that girl is! I agree Hugger. All the motors Ive built over the years, Ive never degreed a cam. So the old dog is gonna learn something new Ha! Things I did learn yesterday however boiled down to the fact that a Buick 455 damper snout on the crank is MICd at 1.437-5 which relates to 1-7/16". A true bastard size in Buick fashion. I tried to buy a degreeing socket with a knurled nut for the degree wheel and got yenced. Game boy at Scummit pulled the wrong number for the socket and wheel and charged me before I could say WRONGO. Thats gonna take 3-5 business days to get refunded back on my card. It was merely a socket for turning the crank for assembly. The only two other options were a smaller ID socket that I'd have to bore out to a bastard size, or grab the BBC unit at 1.542 and make a sleeve on the lathe so Ill now have two units. Its always a learning curve. Also went larger since its aluminum and didnt need for it to break. Wun fun tung raffing all the way to gurrag... The steel version is like 75.00 ws https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...XMdSVw9CUsKJimv8Uh2xNNXFRgMvZ1_0aAutgEALw_wcB
Send Pat some well wishes from me, too, Bill! I've had some friends affected by pancreatic cancer, and unfortunately that one is never good. Hopefully Alex makes it through his contract, always seemed like a good guy from what I've read.....and the car is coming along nicely! Even though I'm not posting too many responses, I'm following along as usual, skipper!
Yo Luke! Before I go into my usual diatribe, Ive got a question for you about the 409... The dealer is always sending Pat notices about oil changes, like every 4000 miles. Theres 20K on the car now and it came with full synthetic oil. I dont use the stuff myself (my stuff leaks the syntho oil thru weepage), but shouldnt that stuff be good for 10K at least?? Thanks! So on to tonights show... Got two boxes from Scummit today. One had a crank socket (incorrect) that "Titus" sold me as what was needed. Incorrect. I needed a degreeing nut with a knurled loosener upper. That, and a Stevie Wonder degree wheel. I made one and at 6", I couldnt read the stoopid thing. This one is 11". The socket altho incorrect on the ID will work with a handy dandy sleeve Ill spin out tomorrow. The BBB is 1.439-5 on the snout and this one is 1.542. Normally I wouldnt use an aluminum one to roll the assembly over, but one piston sans rings, and a cam shaft roll almost effortlessly with a 1/2" ratshit. For assembly, ill use the damper bolt. Yo Mike.. Pan arrived just like I like 'em! Extra grungy LOL. Perfect box ! The wire holder is perfect too. I was surprised to see the cross-over notch so rusty tho. Mustve done a lot of idling and got cooked. The oil cavity was pretty sludgy back there too. It turned out at....... 100%! Thanks!! Still cant get a bearing retainer/throw out bearing guide to figger into this one either on the T-10. This one is going in the lathe tomorrow as well. TO brng. is 1.380" and the sleeve that is on my T-10 is 1.460". 1-3/8" is standard across the board. Seal and gasket are good so thatll go back together later. MOLOTOW Chrome paint pen to the rescue! Night night! ws
For warranty purposes, change it when the reminder tells you to on the gauges. If it's still saying that she has 25% oil life when your dealer is trying to get you to come in, just ignore it.....Now, if it was my car and I was going to keep it for the long haul, I'd be changing it more often. We don't see it on the Impalas very much, but timing chain tensioners and sliders really, really don't really like dirty oil.......I could go on a whole diatribe, but just use the Googles and look up GM 3.6 timing chain issues (I think that's what Pat's car had if remember right). Stay on top of those oil changes...........
Good answer... Ill just let a sleeping dog lay LOL... Pats always telling me she's going for an oil change. She's religious about that, so its' her baby! Thanks, ws
BTW Luke... that T-10 snout is for a FORD...Dorfs take a 1.440" TO bearing ID. GMs are all 1.380". EUWWWW! Really peculiar as the bell housing pattern is totally GM where the top loader 4 speeds were more vertical. Did the T-5s go to the GM pattern too? This one has a T-400 yoke in the back, and all the Hurst shifter stuff cleared with no problems. What the???? I suppose Ill hafta verify the retainer to BH fit too for alignment? ws
As far as I know, the Borg-Warner T5 itself had the same pattern if it was for something like a 5.0 Mustang or a Mullet Camaro or Firebird. I put a T5 out of a late 80s Firechicken in my crazy ex's '69 Chevy shortbox 2wd where a super T-10 was before. I used the T-10 bellhousing because I didn't want to screw with converting to a slave cylinder, but I had to drill out the bellhousing holes to the next oversize because the bolt pattern was about 1/8"-1/4" off cross ways, if that makes sense. After doing that, I had to go down to the local Oreilly's with my T5 and T-10 throwout bearings and find one that was the right "height", which was an in-betweener. Pulled the shifter out and flipped it 180 degrees ala the Shelby Cobra so it'd clear her bench seat.....Worked swimmingly........
I just realized something, Bill....when I'm "talking" to you in a post, I type almost exactly what I think because I know you'll understand my lingo.....I usually type like I'm writing a school paper for others haha....I dunno if that's a compliment or something else, but we'll go with the compliment route.
Yeah, me too... I tend to overdo the details so you can visualize what I'm saying. Just kinda weird that I bought the T-10 from a guy that had it for a spare for a 70 chevelle SS454. The bolt pattern was spot on. There is a throw out bearing height difference from the 11" Brute force clutch to the OEM 9" V6 unit. Im gonna lay both the pressure plates flat and measure the spring (finger) height. The only other number would be the mounting flange thickness allowing the TOB to release back towards the trans enough. Yes, I know the bearing is upside down! The bore is packed with grease for the slip fit. After all is said and done, after another mock up, I need to be sure the TOB fork is correct. The bearing fits it OK, just not sure of the geometry. Exspurts? Yeah, right. I thought I did good for the clutch from ebay for 98.00 delivered. ROTauto has the same thing for 68.00 plus the truck which is only like 9.00. I was shocked, but dont care for RA that much. Whooda thunk? ws https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=334285&cc=1379763&jsn=604
Hey Bill, looks like you're pulling parts from a '65. You might be lucky and be able to use the latch off that glove box door, not sure. But '64 has no button in the door, it is in the dash section above it. (You probably already figured that one out haha!) But those rocker trims look like a nice find! Sending PM
Yeah Mike, I'm liking them a bunch. Correct length (78") and all! The '65 glove box door is gonna get re-purposed to fit the 64. Those locks are unobtainium, unless I wanna spend 100.00 on one. I'd go with a bungee cord before I do that! The judges will be shocked to see the finished product on this one! hopefully it'll work with my old matching key cylinder fitting et al. Got the whole deal with door, lock and catch. Amazing how much cup holders has progressed in 50 years. Now there'd be 12 of them. Bill
Truer words were never spoken. Many times Ive measured it once, and cut it twice and it was still too short... Still need to perfect the latch... its only a MU, but it works. I also changed the tumblers and the key works as well... ws
Making progress Bill! Just to make sure I have it straight, was the lock mechanism completely missing on the '64 dash?
Hey Mike...Its a standing joke with me that last Christmas Johnny got a tool box, and decided to restore grammas car. Like a scene from a 3 stooges flick, bolts and brackets were flying overhead behind the kid as he took it apart. Not being able to put it back together, the family sold it in pieces. Most of them anyways. How do you lose the antenna mast, yet all the mounting parts are there? Other oddities were there but stuff like all 6 ventiports went missing. A true professional amateur! For reasons unknown but to he and god, the glove box latch was barely attached and non working. I dont think Johnny quite figured out how to take that apart without "fixing" something mid stream. Hmm The latch was all but removed. Complete but "fixed" and in-op. Unable to see whatcher doing, the lock cylinder has to come out, then tighten (or remove) the body and escutcheon ring. That takes an 8 side driver (3/8" octagon allen socket) so thats where the kid gave up. I had it in and out 20 times and was unable to make it latch. The door just flopped around. The lock got Johnnied (jimmied). Yesterday, I pulled both locks apart and changed the tumblers so the '64 keys work the '65 lock. A RINGER! I love retro-fitting or reverse engineering stuff, consequently, I had to make a barbaric latch to make it work. Believe, I am not proud of the job but it works. Later Ill make a nice one, but you cant even see this one without searching for it. Its just a TEMPLATE or a "MU". Thats my story and Im sticking with it! The '65 mechanism is so simple a cave man could fix it. Ive seen many available on a door for $20.00, so I sure as heck wasnt gonna spend 75.00 to 100.00 for a latch. Mies Vander Rhoe, who designed the Sears Tower in Chicago used an expression, thats led me through life... "Form Follows Function". So while Im in there, haha, I have to reinstall Johnnies heater core job as well. Theres a green stain on the fins so Im guessing it leaked, hence Johnnies' attempt to fix that too. At least the 3 cables are intact; now cleaned, lubed, smooth, and the inner and outer box painted. I hafta pressure test the core and repair as necessary. The steel inner plenum had a dozen or so rust pin holes in it (repaired now), but may need a non AC core. More fun. Of course, the outer pleum was missing, but most of the fasteners made "the cup". LOL... Steve Reynolds parted with the outer plenum. Thanks SR, still havent forgot about the lower arms!! ws
So Pats second eye job was a smashing success! Yippee!! Both cataract/lenses and a micro stent each for glaucoma pressure. Improving already, only 2 hours post op. Parts oughta be starting to show up maybe today, so its gonna become fast 'n furious around here. I like getting stuff done and this job has been draggin' arse for a month now. Another 6-8 weeks and it'll be boat work, with the Buick stuff on the back burner. Thens theres the XGS in winter storage all season, plus the shovelhead etc. Summer around here lasts about 10 weeks so we gotta be ready! Batteries, oi changes, Boat upkeep; the whole she-bang. Ill be ready for a rest around next October haha. I was stumped the other day while working on the glove box door. I came across this in the screw cup and drew a blank. It came to me last night at 2 a.m. Am I a sicko or what??? What is it exspurts? ws
A most generous benefactor showed up here and offered me a bunch of goodies for the build that are just a bit better than swap meet stuff from the original 455 I got with the special. Some stuff was gifted and some was loaned like all the T/A degreeing stuff which really simplified the job. George the KING King really stepped up top help an old diesel guy get on track. We are both HS dropouts and self taught mechanical engineers from the school of hard knocks. George, I hope you never need my help, but if you do, I'd be hurt all over if you didnt call and ask. We had several long winded talks about everything from locomotives to hot rods to our common health issues. The best part was the T/A timing set with little more than dyno time on it. The lifter guide dial indicator was a giant help. The single key POS was returned today, and after degreeing the cam, it came in at < than 1/2 degree from the cam card. Got the hang of it and moved it several times to be sure, and it always came back. The basic set was about 10* retarded and no way to adjust. Dead nuts is just right! Thanks again george! YOU DA MAN!!! Did the whole degree job with a single empty piston. After it was all verified, I ringed the slug and had it in in 1/2 hour and it glides like silk, ah, er, socks. Im not doing a car restoration, rather a restoration on Day 2 parts to make them serviceable again. Confidence has been restored thanks to George. A true blessing to the Buick brotherhood. Tomorrow is the rest of the piston installation. I already checked ring gaps and had them packaged in lots per cylinder. Thats a time consuming job in itself. A lot of stuff can now be grabbed off the shelf for install. I fully expect the long block to be done by Sunday, and then move along at a decent pace from there. ws
