Thanks Larry! Geez you're everywhere! :shock: You know what else I just thought of, my local NAPA supposedly can order this stuff too. Maybe save a hair shipping. I did see one auction from your link with free shipping for a case though.
I've been running Schaeffer Oil 20W-50 Racing Oil - since my engine has been rebuilt. Does anyone else run this or should I change? I have 12psi at idle at 180 degrees. It's a synthetic blend. Just wondering of there is something that is better out there
I used Joe Gibbs BR 5w30 for the initial break-in. Switched to Lucas Hot Rod and Classic Car half 10w30 and half 20w50 before winter storage. Going to go with Joe Gibbs again next month. Still have not decided which one but leaning towards the HR 1 15w50 8 quart pan makes for an expensive oil change :eek2:
This is what I use now, http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/hr4-synthetic-10w-47html/ I started off with conventional oil, http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/hr2-conventional-10w-47html/ Use the thinnest oil that gives you sufficient oil pressure.
Wow, I'm sure it's good (the oil you use now) but at $12/Qt I will have to stick with Brad Penn I think.
x2, which my magical concoction is straight 10w-30 in the winter and 2qts 20w-50 and 3qts 10w-30 in the summer. Typically keeps mine at 15psi at 800rpm and 185F temp, ~40psi at 2,300rpm cruising speed and still hits 70+psi by 4,000 rpm.
I got a smoking deal on 2 cases for 200.00 last summer. That is 3+ oil changes (7 qts.) and synthetic lasts longer. Synthetic does everything better. It holds up to heat better, flows better. I broke it in for 1 year plus on conventional, than switched to synthetic. I use synthetic in my 98 Riviera (Amsoil) with nearly 160,000 miles.
I just turned over 188k miles on my Corolla, and use Pennzoil 5-20 and Fram filters, changed every 5k miles.
I have been out of the loop on flat tappet cams and what oils to use with them for about 10 years. Seems the debate has still been going on since I last read up on it. A ton of info, and a ton of links to go back and go thu and not enough coffee in the system yet to absorb it all. Thanks to all that posted!
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?295631-Ok-which-ZDDP-was-the-one-to-buy Read the Truth About Oil Good Info
A thought about the oils used in newer roller cam engines…. If we still should still use higher zinc oils in our older V8’s even with roller conversions due to “Roller tracking” shouldn’t the same hold true for modern engines? A roller valve train is a roller valve train, yes? Regardless, I’m staying with either Penn Grade, or Joe Gibbs 10/30 or 10/40
Great read, I knew about the oil issue but had not seen this thread. From what I gather it seems as time moves on the recommendation for our Buicks is moving to even thinner oils then the 30 weights,
Oil viscosity requirements are dictated by several factors, not the least of which is the ability to maintain the film strength required to keep the rod bearings off the crankshaft. Always stay with a 10WT oil unless your builder instructs you otherwise. I build several high cylinder pressure combos that actually require a 15/20 wt oil. Switching arbitrarily to a 0 or 5 wt oil could cause engine damage in your high performance Buick, and there is very little upside to super thin oils. What base stock you use (conventional vs synthetic) is entirely up to you, synthetic is good if your engine is operated for long periods of time, at elevated coolant and oil temps (above 210*). For most of us, the dino based stuff is just fine. As to break in oil, it's benefit goes far beyond just the flat tappet/cam lobe interface... Every moving part in the engine benefits from oil with high levels of extreme pressure lubricant during the critical break in phase of the engine's life. Use break in oil in all new engines, regardless of what type of valvetrain your using. In general, older builds with low lift stock type camshaft profiles, often get away not using the high zinc oils, as the lobes and lifters are "work hardened" and considerable less force is being thrown around in the valvetrain.. stock stuff was designed to operate quietly, and to run for decades with marginal oiling and very little break in. High performance flat tappet camshafts are a whole different animal, and require the use of the specialty oils that have pre-epa levels of extreme pressure lube in them. Failure to use this type of oil is almost certainly a death sentence for a new high performance flat tappet cam, and will dramatically shorten the life of a used setup. JW
Good point! Im going to assume by " MUCH LESS loading" your referring to the OEM's newer behive spring tech which uses a "softer" spring verses our 100 plus on the seat and 3 to 400 plus lbs over the nose?
