Running hot no longer an issue, Played some different springs that came with thrust plate kit. They preformed as indicated in the instructions, so oil pressure issues all ok. You meant 15-30 oil right? Not sure...maybe that is what he had kicking around. First start up was low on coolant, probably that was my issue or air locked??? Got it idling, sounds sweet, just need to get this lifter issue sorted out and I am good. Busy this weekend, so maybe next. Thanks.
Post #138 said there was 5-30 oil put in. Hope it all works out for ya. Try the Comp Cams Pro Magnum lifters if you keep having trouble with your lifters. You will have to do a new 20 minute break in period if you change them.
from my experience during the breakin if you dont have a huge fan it will overheat.. you probably did not experience this problem since most dynos probably have better cooling than a regular radiator. but im not sure. as far as v8 cars go ive always noticed they want to run a little hot till they breakin good...
Very true. Not sure how much it really helps but you can use one of those "summertime" box fans to blow air towards the radiator as well during break in.
I took the car out for a short ride, had good oil pressure at start up but that did not last. Once that oil got to operating temperature it would barley hold 7lbs at idle, difficulty staying ahead of the RPM curve IE I would like to see 30lbs at 2000 rmp, 40lbs at 3000 rpm, it was more respectable in the upper RPM range but scary in the lower range. Those of you following this thread will remember that the oil passage between the pick tube to where it turns towards the front cover was surgically removed, a new piece of cast was welded in place (cold weld) and the oil passage was re drilled. The block was stripped before it was brought to the commercial welding shop who specialize in this work. However, the cam bearings remained in the block. I talked to the shop that did the work. Comments were that those cam bearings should have been removed and all the oil passages reamed or blown clear to make sure no fillings were lodged behind the cam bearings from having drilled out the oil passage. Builder disagreed, oil passage repair was between PU tube and oil pump. However they did remove oil galley plugs, hot tanked the block and blew out all oil passages before re assembly. Machine Shop will be making a house call soon to replace all lifters and will inspect cam lobes, when he came by to inspect he seemed concerned with the pushrods, IE said that once the push rods are snugged that he should have a 1 turn + 1/2 till the rocker arm bolts are torqued down, mine only had a 1/2 turn left. As I am told that most of our oil pressure is generated from the cam shaft to cam bearing gap I hope I have not spun a cam bearing. Oil pressure has not been consistent.
I never heard of a block being hot tanked with the bearings in because a true hot tank uses caustic solutions which eat away bearings. Now if they just ran it through a hot water/steam cleaning solution that would be different. If it was that close to being stripped down I don't see why they didn't pop them out.
agreed. and why 5.30 thats to thin when warmed up get at least 10.30 . what's cold start oil pressure
Sorry, if caustic is used for hot tank...builder probably would not have done that. Probably steamed...I will check and confirm. I use to run a heavier oil, once I dump this break in oil I will go back to what I had. Cold start at 55 lbs.
Well guys I still do not have a car that is running. Builder has yet to show up to replace the lifters. Been trying hard to make them accountable.They have a fellow at the counter dealing with the public and trying to keep them away from the machinist who owns the shop. Been unable to tie them down to a time slot. I am calling twice a day and will continue to do so until I feel I have had enough. I was politely told today that right now "paying customers are a priority and that warranty repairs are not, we will call you when we have time to complete the work" I was thinking of that Nicolas Cage movie that just hit th rental stores "Drive Angry". I am angry!:af: But I am not driving. OPTIONS: 1. Complete the work myself and to hell with them 2. Threaten to start showing up at show and shines with my noisy valve train and put some nice art work on my frt fenders with dry erase markers that state "engine work completed by..." 3. Get the work done elsewhere and collect cost through small claims court. AND I did pay NOT wholesale for this engine work. Out of pocket $4200.00
I am so sorry to hear how bad this has gone for you! This is one of the reasons I shy away from suggesting people drill out thier blocks for the oiling mods. I say that you should take this guy to court but only if you can do it without going even further in dept over this ordeal. Again, so sorry I am not closer or I would do what I could to help you! Thanks again for having your buddy look at that Skylark... I owe you one!:beers2:
Ahhh. Poop happens. Will dog him for a bit longer. If no success I will change lifters on the weekend. Hell, it's a valve train noise cause by lifters leaking down. I will do Break in, then drive it. If it fails, I will figure out where I go from there.:Brow
Cam lobe is wiped and lifter is all chewed up...Hurry up and wait!!!! I want to drive my car...I want to drive may car!!!! Can some post the CAM Card for the Poston 110 A...Thanks :spank:
I see you mentioned that the builder is only working on paying customers right now and warranty work will be done later. Didn't you say you spent $4200.00 dollars at the shop to get the engine built? Doesn't this mean you are a paying customer. Tell him he is working on your engine NOW or you are going to take him to small claims court to get ALL of your money back. You can also tell him you are going to call the BBB to make a claim against the company. The longer he delays this the worse it is going to get.
who broke the cam in? did they use zinc additive? was the oil changed after cam break in? sorry about your luck. if i were you. change cam bearings while your at it. is their a board member near you?
Well, if you decide to go the court route, I recommend finding a reputable rebuilder who is willing to do the tear-down and document the other guy's work. You can then try to recover the difference between what you shelled out already, and what you had to pay to have the engine rebuilt [again] properly. As far as the zinc additive goes, I thought that was added after the cam break-in?
