I know everyone is hot to trot with new technology and a "sharper image", but since yer all getting new stylish gages etc., I'd sure be interested in a bunch of old S/W or VDO type under dash gages for the retro-resto-rat rod Special. I need a Mech. oil pressure gage, and electric (maybe mech) water temp, a VOLTMETER (no amps thanks!) and a vacuum gage. Preferably all illuminated, black face(!) white needles with chrome bezel in a 2" (2-1/16"?) hole size. They dont need to be perfect by any means, just functional! Need the mounting clamps but these are going IN THE DASH just above the radio, so the under mount isnt necessary. Thanks a million guys! ws
I do have some old S here,just sold a few to Pat a week or so ago,just give me a couple ,I'll let you know what I have.Bruno.
Bill, I used Bosch 1.5 inch gauges. They come in black/black, black/white and white/chrome. If you pull the bezel and then remove the radio/speaker plate, there is a hole in the bezel for the AC vent. The cutout will allow 1.5 gauges without cutting the bezel, only the speaker plate. You can cut the holes in the grill trim with a hole saw. If you have not pulled the dash/bezel/clusters before, to put the gauges in all you need do is remove the dash padded ring, the air control bezel and the screws holding the air control the radio and and then right bezel can be removed and a couple of speed nuts hold the plate on.
These old Sun and S&W gauges are really bringing decent money anymore.But,I guess you have to pay for the coolness factor.Good luck.
Thanks for the feedback so far guys. Just trying to get all the eggs in one basket before heading out to the farm stand LOL. Its interesting to see the Skylark bezel has a break in it just above the radio, and the Special is flat. Hmmm So does my chrome bezel need to be cut off from the speaker side? It looks like one piece. If it has to go, I may use a piece of 1/8 aluminum diamond plate in its place. I think either would look good. After having the dash out and WAYYY apart on the 72 several times, the '64 looks like a cake walk. Is that a retrofitted tach where the clock was or is it real? ws
The cutout in the bezel is the same in the '64 and '65, the difference is the "break". If you do cut larger holes, you will get into the pot metal of the bezel, and I would suggest you pull the bezel and separate the front trim. Then you will know what your dealing with. Having a hole saw bind going through both might get ugly. Let me see if I still have my '64 panel. It is the "brushed aluminum" style like this; The tach is a "retrofit" of a '70/72 Chevelle/'camino tach from "Shift Works". I had a spare clock and used the housing. I had to disassemble the housings and de-solder/re-solder the wiring. But it works very well. Since I use a battery isolator/disconnect, the clock was always wrong, and I did not like the appearance of the tach on the steering column .
I agree about the column mount tach, even tho it can be considered period correct, or "day 2". Its gotta be a SUN Super tach tho... Hmmm. I am a little confused that your 65 has the 64 style glove box door. I thought it was a skylark/special difference. I do like the break in the dash however! Was that door a mid year change deal maybe? ws
It's a '64 Skylark. It had the "flat" radio side that was specific to the '64. I prefer the "break" in the radio bezel and plate on the '65 as it "matches" the appearance of the speedo side. My car is my "opinion" of what Buick "coulda did" if "management" would have played another few rounds of golf after that afternoon in 1964 when a particular Tempest with the GTO option drove past the factory.
So true! It sux when everyone knows the answers but havent heard the questions! Two other questions for ya Mike... have you tried to source BLUE pedal pads? And what'd you do for a radiator. Mine still has the V6 downflow and is small, but probably OK for a garage/ round the block tst run, but not much more. Also probably need a heater core. Will pressure test that today I hope! ws
Yes, I did try to find blue pedals, but for a three pedal car, I had no luck. But they had them for the "big cars" with autos trans, and you can still find them. I put in a 65 GS radiator, used heavy rubber "comfort mat" with holes, cut strips and laid them in the lower core support channel and the correct top plate and isolators, and fabbed two side panels that press against the engine sides of the tanks to keep is solid. (since the core support is shaped differtly on the non-GS cars). I have a non-A/C heater core, let me get pics of it tonight in case you want it. It is low hours.
Is there a cover plate for that? All I have is the smallish center support and the 2 bottom shoes for the downflow V6 unit. Details? ws
Bill, The ribbed dash bezel you have is the same as my Skylark. The dash panel on Michael's '64 is a '65. Yours appears to be pretty pristine in the pics! You don't see those for sale in real nice condition too often. If you change yours to a '65 style, I think you have to get the bezel for the heater control from a '65 also. I haven't been able to find out any certain applications, but have seen 3 different dash panels for '64 cars. most of the non a/c cars I've seen have the ribbed one like we have. Most of the a/c cars have one like Michael's with the center a/c vent above the radio. Then non a/c cars with one just like Michael's '64 panel. All are 1 piece, just part of it is smooth. The radiator for '64 v8 cars is wider than yours, and the bracket on top is wider also. They don't have cover plates on '64 cars. Also the v8 fan shroud is bigger on v8 cars. This is what I did for gauges.
Here's the radiator set up. I bought a 3-core that is identical to the original 2-core that came in my car from a v8 member. It did good with the 300 I had, and pretty good with the 350 I have now. Might not handle a 455 though.
I like the double hangers on top. Clanceman here sent me a spare for the 64 so I can work with that. If I find a cross flow with side tanks, those brackets may just saddle the end tank seams. I'd probably need to do something similar for the bottom. Does the shroud have a double provision to land thos brackets? Mine has one in the center. ws
Bill, The top bracket is double where it goes over the core support, and has a cross arm behind that ties the two sides together and the shroud bolts to it in the center. Most likely the same attachment as the v6 shroud, although I'm not positive as I haven't seen the v6 shroud.
Looks like yer shroud has two landing tabs for the brackets.. I'll confirm tomorrow, next time out>>>>> ws
Thats a nifty bracket! Kinda headed in the direction I was thinking! Ill be at that point in a few weeks I hope! ws
