I am looking for opinions on using C-clip eliminators on a 12 bolt Chevrolet rear end I built to go in my '65 GS. It came out of a '65 Chevy Wagon and I put an Eaton Positraction carrier in it. I don't like the way the axles will move in and out about 3/16" once it is all put together and would like to put the safety hubs/C-clip eliminator bearings on it. I also don't like the design of the axle bearings running right on the surface of the axles. Are C-clip eliminators acceptable for use on a street car? I saw in one catalog that sold them that they were for racing only. Also, will they work on the original, stock Chevy axles? I realize that using the C-clip eliminator bearings requires taking a saw and cutting off the ends of the housing, but doing that is no problem.
C'Clips If I had to guess...do you have the right posi for your axles? The center pin should eliminate any extreme play. My opinion on C'clips is race only, with 500+ HP and running primarily on the drag strip. They can be messy on street cars and leak oil from the lateral movement of street driving. :rant: Hope this helps, T
Are you saying that C-clips are race only, or are you saying C-clip eliminators are race only? I got kind of confused by the way your post is worded. I have an Eaton Limited Slip posi in my 12 bolt. All of the other C-clip rears I have put together have the same in/out play on the axles.
The c clip eliminator stuff works but they do leak. Depending on the axle wear and various other factors they can leak a little or a lot. Cheap fix to get rid of c clips but not a perfect fix. I know you're gonna hate me but my Skylark has a 12 bolt in it but I ditched the stock ends completely and replaced the ends with Lamb style symetrical ends and the matching lamb disc brakes. You dont have to do lamb pieces but take the thing to a shop with a rear jig, have them weld either some Ford ,Olds, or Mopar style billet ends on the housing and do it right. They will never leak , you can get the center welded at the same time as well and you'll have a bullet proof piece that you'll never have to worry about. Its more money but you will only spend it once. George
Where do they leak? Do they leak between the bearing and the axle where it is pressed on, between the bearing housing and the rear end housing, or does the grease come through the bearing itself? I like your idea of putting different housing ends on it, but the rear is already assembled, finish painted, and in the chasis, so taking it completely apart to weld different ends on it is not at the top of my list. I could do the eliminators by just taking the axles out.
c-clip eliminators C-clip eliminators may be considered race only because there is the possibilty of the kit interfering with the park brake lever in the rear brakes.
C-clip eliminator are race only because they used a low friction round ball bearing which will wear rapidly with street use, unlike the factory roller bearing. Also they leak pretty bad. I beleive they have a circle track model that would work on the street. Check with Moser Engineering. Jeff
C-clips Brian, I use them on my 65 Street car w/o any problems. I would agree they are more for racing than street driving and that you have to pay attention to get them to seal. They leak between the the c-clip eliminator and the rear housing where they bolt up most of the time. I have had mine installed for about a year and they have yet to leak. If you plan on driving your car alot on the street and don't plan on racing it, I would have new housing end installed that allow you to use a positive retension set up. Check Moser's web site out. Good luck!
I have the Moser c clip elim and they did leak at first but then I re-did them and cleaned the bacing plates of ALL rust and no leaks. I run the lube on the low side since it is a sealed bearing and you only need to get lube on the ring and pinion.
Can you not just put a gasket between the c-clip eliminator bearing housing and the backing plate? Have you been using yours as a street vehicle, or just on the track? Also, someone mentioned possible problems with the parking brake mechanism--does that interfere with the C-clip eliminator?
Yes, street and stip with a spool nonethe less! I used ULTRA BLACK. I don't think a gasket would help much. Unfortulately I am bad and ditched the emergency/parking brake.....so I don't know.
I have Mark Williams eliminators on mine. I cleaned up the backing plate and flange on the rearend housing and put a little silicone between the backing plate and housing and some between eliminator and backing plate and never had a leak on mine. I never had a problem on the street but I also don't put alot of miles on mine on the street. Tom
I have never heard of Mark Williams--where can they be obtained? Do you have the stock brakes setup on your car with the parking brake still funtcional? If so, are there any interfernece issues with the parking brake arm?
Wow, I am suprised by all of the posts here. I would not do it again, but my friend sugessted I go with the eliminators because I like to burn corners really hard. Neither of us liked the idea of a little C Clip holding my axles in place during high G cornering. One of them leaked for a while, but it stopped Someday, I'll go with a 8.5" rear!
Mark Williams is a big name in rear end parts. If you put Mark Williams in a google search I am sure it will get you to the site for them. I have the stock drum brakes on mine with all the parking brake stuff still in it but my cables are all rusted solid so they don't work [good old Wisconsin winters and road salt] but don't see any reason they wouldn't work. Mark Williams have them for stock axles or aftermarket. I have always heard good things about there stuff. I am not sure if its true but I was told that the MW eliminators have bigger bearings than some other kits and are less prone to leaking, Like I said I have no idea if this stuff is true because I have nothing to compair them to. The only other kit I have used was a Strange Enginering kit many years ago on a narrowed 12 bolt rear, from what I remember of them I think the MW eliminators are much stronger built. As long as the backing plate is sealed up to the housing good I don't see how a MW setup will leak unless it comes right through the bearings themselves, The outside of the bearing has a O ring to seal it in the blocks and the blocks have a O ring to seal on the axle tube. But I use a little silicone on the backing plate back side and on the kits where the seal against the the plate. The only problem I had was I put the kit on Yukon heavy duty axles that still have the ends for C clips and with the eliminator kits on the axles went in a little to far and the end of the axles would hit the cross pin in the diff. I just ground some off the ends of the axles till I had some clearence at the cross pin. I guess I could of just cut off the C clip things in a bandsaw since I don't plan on using the C clips ever again in mine. Tom
here is there link www.markwilliams.com Their stuff is the only stuff that I would use in my race car for axles ,gears,centers,etc. Most of the NHRA pro stock guys use his stuff(90%+) You wont be disapointed with the quality. good luck George
c-clip eliminater I have never had a problem with c- clip rears. As long as your not banging up against curbs and such they will work more than fine. All new rear wheel drive cars are c-clip type so if they are so unsafe all the big three are risking all of our lives...lol . Really though eliminater are finr for the street if it makes you feel safer. Depends on what you do with your car. If your just cruising around town doing burn outs here and there, the eliminators will be fine with the wear. If your doing cross state crusies maybe think about keeping it stock (c-clip). OR YOU CAN just flip a coin. lol Really it is your car If you want it do it. You made the money you spend it. The American way. :3gears: Have fun. OH AND ON THE PLAY CHECK THE END OF THE AXLES FOR WEAR TOO. The part that butt against the pin and make sure your c-clips are not wearing too. Check the thickness. Jim
