Please delete. I can't for some reason

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by 72buicklark, Oct 19, 2017.

  1. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    First, I see no reason to use a relay to power the HEI. Now you have 2 circuits to worry about, the trigger and the load. You said that you install remote starters for a living? Is there one on this vehicle? If there is,temporarily disable it. Don't just shut it off, unplug the module and all relays and pull all fuses. I've seen many aftermarket devices cause all kinds of electrical issues.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2017
  2. Ken Warner

    Ken Warner Stand-up Philosopher

    As much as it will suck (slightly) to do I would recommend bringing a 10 or 12 gauge wire up off the starter solenoid to feed the HEI then use that IGN hot to feed the FiTech. (It's how mine is run). Tapping into the power wire right at the HEI is a notoriously noisy place.

    The idea with the relay would probably be fine but why bother when there is already a big high amperage relay at the starter that's there for just this purpose?
     
  3. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!


    your hei has power all the time? do you go through modules?
     
  4. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    I don't understand how you can use the starter solenoid as a relay for the HEI. At the starter solenoid, there is battery voltage on the large terminal, crank voltage at the s terminal, and voltage at the r terminal while cranking. I don't understand how you could make this work for the ignition system.
     
  5. 72buicklark

    72buicklark AKA 68GS383

    The HEI is now being fed by a relay off the Battery, the relay is triggered by the ignition spade at the fuse box. The same spade is triggering the white 12v key on power of the FI tech.

    Neither I've found is the issue. I was beginning to get those wild voltage fluctuations at the battery so I swapped it out for another.

    New battery is doing the same thing so rules that out. I undid the alternator charging lead to test things and the battery still fluctuated wildly. While it was off I checked the alternator post and it was a steady 14V.

    The only thing that I can think that would cause such bad voltage drops at the battery would be a NASTY short somewhere. One that would be arcing and snapping loud enough to be an easy find. WTF IS GOING ON.

    And no I don't have a remote starter in my GS
     
  6. 72buicklark

    72buicklark AKA 68GS383



    If you watch this video it's doing the same thing mine is. Except mine was doing it with the alternator lead OFF removing the alternator from the equation
     
  7. Ken Warner

    Ken Warner Stand-up Philosopher

    Yeah, my bad, brain cramp with the wire from the starter only providing 12v during crank for starting only with the points setup then falling back to the resistance wire for run.
     
  8. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    With the alternator disconnected, it is IMPOSSIBLE to have more than 12.6v at the battery. Actually, you could have slightly more than 12.6 if the battery has just come off of the battery charger. Is your meter working correctly? Is it set on the dc scale? Are the meter leads ok? Do you have anything else aftermarket tied into any other circuit on the car? Are you sure that your grounds are good? When checking the fuse box inside the car, where are you connecting the ground lead to? Try connecting the ground lead of the meter directly to the battery. Using the ohm scale, connect your leads together to make sure that your leads are good. With the leads connected together, twist and pull on them to check for fluctuations in resistance. It's beginning to look like you have some major issues with the entire electrical system, not just that one circuit.
     
  9. 72buicklark

    72buicklark AKA 68GS383

    73GS, I may of not correctly explained things.

    No the voltage never went above the batteries resting voltage during the test with the alternator lead removed. Your right in saying that would be impossible, but it still flipped around from 12-6-10-2 etc.

    I believe I've found the issue. I've removed all the cars grounds and main power feed to Starter. I'm not sure if my old 0 gauge crimper was on its last legs but almost all my ring terminals were in varying states of being loose.
    With everything removed and all new 0G terminals PROPERLY crimped on I'm hoping after I reinstall everything the issue will be resolved. I haven't had a propane touch in a long time but I was thinking about picking one up to solder fill the terminals as well but everything was tight when I did the vice pull test.

    I checked my meter on my daily driver and it was spot on. I went through the entire test process for loose connections or broken leads etc. Even metered my leads to check for any issues, my old Fluke's never let me down but I was desperate

    If not it's very well insured. ..... and accidents happen :p
     
  10. 1973gs

    1973gs Well-Known Member

    I bet that you found the problem.I'm glad to hear that you replaced all of the terminals instead of just recrimping the old ones. I'd go one step further and put heat shrink over the new terminals. I remember my electrical instructor in school said that when looking for electrical problems, be lazy--always check the easy stuff first. I think that the Fluke meters are the best on the market. Mine must be over 30 years old.
     
  11. 72buicklark

    72buicklark AKA 68GS383

    Thanks for all the help 1973GS, much appreciated
     
  12. 72buicklark

    72buicklark AKA 68GS383

    NOPE!

    Didn't resolve anything. Redid everything and fire it up and I'm still getting fluctuations at the battery. Removed the ALT charge lead again and did the same thing to me. I'm lost. I've never seen something like this before ever
     
  13. 72buicklark

    72buicklark AKA 68GS383

    Go out and check for a parasitic draw.

    No draw found. Checked the fusible links and one looks suspect but showed good continuity. Cut them both off and will replace them to eliminate the possibility
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2017
  14. 72buicklark

    72buicklark AKA 68GS383

    Back from the dead. Life's been busy and just getting back to the car now.

    With a new battery and new starter I'm still having the same issue. With the car running the battery voltage at the battery will bounce around up and down from 14.6 down to 3v to 8v to 14v to 1V and back up. I'm LOST

    ANY IDEAS GUYS? the voltage issue is Messing with my FI Tech
     
  15. 72buicklark

    72buicklark AKA 68GS383

    Stranger thing is when i measure voltage at my Robbmc power surge fuel pump being ran off a relay from the battery the voltage is a constant 14.4....

    When I test the battery itself at the terminals the voltage is all over the place
     

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