My Ready-to-run 8552 distributor will not work with Blaster 2 coils.

Buick Electra 1967 with 430. New distributor, but no warrenty left, new sparkplugs and wires.
(With modern alternator with cable hack, when I set ignition on, it buzzes and the battery volts drops, I waited until it stabilized and then made the following test.)


My rusty no-name coil make it run as it should every time.
But I want a new and improved, so I bought two Blaster 2 coils, and none
of these makes the engine run.

I even tested my friends Blaster 2, and one of mine in his car.
Works in his car, but not in mine.

I have new MSD 8.5mm super conductor wires.

Good grounding. Cables where they should be according to manual.

My newest Blaster 2:
* Coil+ ignition off = 0 Volts
* Coil+ ignition on = 12.35 Volts
* Battery ignition on = 12.60 Volts
* Coil+ cranking = 11 - 9.7 Volts
* Coil+ "running" = 12.20 Volts

* Primary = 0,9 Ohms
* Secondary = 5490 Ohms

It starts but missing some cylinders, like timing is off.
Timing light almost, or never, blinked.
Runs for 5 seconds and die. Out comes gas thru carb.

If I go back to my old no-name coil it runs perfectly.
(Timing Initial: 4 Mechanical 34.. Will set it better later.)
Why replace it? Better look and more power, and something is wrong and the car could fail with old coil also.

When I remove wire from distributor cap and place it close to ground
with a bolt in it and crank, I get an okay, pulsing spark.
I get sparks without a extending bolt also.


MSD keeps focusing on the coil.
I'm starting to suspect the Ignition Module.
But it costs 134.97$
So before I test replacing this I turn to all of you for suggestions?

Thanks

 

You did get rid of the ballast resistor wire from the ignition switch? If it is still there the B2 is probably a lower impedance than the factory coil drawing the voltage down. Is there any chance the red and black wires are reversed on the coil? Red to + and orange to - with a wire directly from the ignition switch to the + terminal per the instructions(no built-in ballast wire). If the wiring is setup correctly the voltage at the + B2 terminal will be almost exactly as that of the alternator output terminal or the battery + terminal. I would think something like 13.6V or greater once running and it is charging.

I'm sure you've seen this:

http://documents.msdperformance.com/8552.pdf

 

So, the 1967 Electra have a ballast resistor wire?
I haven’t replaced any wire, but the seller claimed the wiring Is new, and looks fresh.
I have no visible ballast resistor around the engine.

Would it be a bad idea to make a direct connection between battery and coil + just to test if makes any difference?

I have followed the MSD manual;
Orange to coil-
Key to coil+
Red to coil+
Ground to carb, but I have tested directly to battery with no improvement.
I have an extra ground between head and battery.

Wouldn’t my old chromed no-name coil be affected by the ballast resistor wire also?
I get a strong spark from it and engine runs as it should.

 

It didn’t help to connect battery+ to coil+
Also tested battery charger+ to coil+

So, three blaster 2 coils = engine starts but sounds like wrong timing, struggling at low rpm and dies a few second later. Two of them works on my friend's car with points and ballast, not tested the third in his car.
My old coil = engine runs as it should at home, haven’t tested out on the streets.

 

Yes your '67 most definitely has a resistance wire going to the coil.
Even tho the wiring is "new" it also should have a resistance wire.
Your old chrome "no name" coil is probably a stock type coil that's chrome plated, and ITS DESIGNED to work WITH THE RESISTANCE WIRE......... LESS than 12 volts, whereas your aftermarket coils are designed to work WITH 12 volts.

 

Thanks. But I tested to connect battery+ to coil+ and it did not work either?

 

Are you running any ignition control box? If not, I know the Mallory breakerless unit requires the removal of the resistance wire and the installation of a Ballast Resistor. No BR needed if control box is installed.
Sounds like your pretty close, wouldn't hurt to look at the 3 wire plug ends to make sure there's nothing going on with that connection point.
I doubt you have any bad parts since the coil works in another car and your old coil runs your car.

 

Correction:

Both Blaster 2 works when I add power to coil+
(I made a better wire this time, instead of old clumsy emergency battery cable)
And I'm not sure anymore if the buzzing sound comes from the coil or the alternator,
stared to buzz when i added power to the coil.

And the buzzing sound came from the coil, not alternator.


So, it’s official. I need to find and replace the resistance wire.

• Is it the wire between key and the firewall?
• Or key to fuses. Fuses to firewall, or all the way to from key to engine?
• Is the wire marked so I can spot the problem easily?

 

I like your text, wish they mentioned all those details in the youtube-films.
Didn’t know that the points should be closed when measuring the volts.


However, you recommend 14 or 12-gauge wire.
YearOne version use 12 on their HEI wire.

Would I gain anything by choosing 12 over 14 or is this just an overkill, or for those who use extreme parts? (73" long)

Thanks

 

I got connector for fuse box at GM dealership
It is in tray 1 bin 2.
I used 12 gauge wire.
That powers coil.
I currently have crane kit but switching to msd system.