Are you sure that the injectors from eclipses and talons are the standard bosch style that are used in pretty much every domestic car? The bottoms of these look a little wierd: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1G-4...ewItemQQcategoryZ33554QQitemZ8052736537QQrdZ1 It doesn't look like the standard o-ring at the bottom as with other injectors. If they did work however that would be awesome. I'd have to get some for my turbo V6 as well as my duty cycles are getting pretty maxed out with my current 36 lb/hr injectors from a pontiac grand am GTP.
It's batch. It can either fire all the injectors at once or you can alternate btwn two channels in an even time interval. I have mine set to alternate btwn each bank to even out pressure surges in the fuel rail. Sequential requires a camshaft position sensor and more detailed timing along with seperate channels to control each injector individually.
he's right it's batch. there are people working on making and have sequential injection. (it's in beta phases right now) I am looking forward to sequential injection. thats where fuel savings come into play. their is also talk that the equipment that does sequential injection is the same equipment that can be used for electronicly controled transmissions. hm... Z06 6 speed paddle shifting transmission. *drool* -nate
That's backwards, 18:1 is lean, 11:1 is rich. For NA, a good starting point is 12.5:1 at WOT, and 14.5:1 at low load cruise. You shouldn't hit anywhere near 18:1 unless you are in a decel condition and tune for decel "enleanment". I have tuned enough LS1s and LT1s to get a good feel for tuning FI, so if anyone needs help with A/Fs and timing maps PM me. I've been thinking about building one of these for a while. I have enough spare sensors, and EFI harnesses to cut up, so I may put one together and install it on something in the off-season. FYI, stock GN injectors are 28#, the replacements commonly used are 30# high-z injectors and can be picked up off the turbo Buick boards used in sets of 6 for under $75. Another alternative is stock LS1 injectors, they are high impedance 26-28 pounders (depending on year, late 90s were 28s), and can be had for under $100 for a used set of 8.
I have made the decision to go with a Megasquirt system on my 64 Riviera with a 455 under the hood.I plan on setting up a TPI system on it.I am thinking of using an Offy duel quad intake for my intake and modifying it with a plenum where the carbs would go.My thinking is that I should be able to get away with a short plenum,but long as hood clearance is an issue.I really don't want a hood scope.All thoughts welcome.Jeff
I just designed a 8th order harmonic tunnel ram for my nailhead that fit under the hood but EFI is reserved for the V6 that will take the nailhead's place. A 455 would be harder to make a tunnel ram for since its a wet intake but its possible. The new SPX intake from TA is available with EFI injector bungs machined. You'd want a plenum around 80% of the engine displacement. I've seen someone build a 455 EFI intake with an Offy dual quad intake, 2 holley baseplates for throttle plates, and 3" exhauste pipe sectioned and welded together for a plenum. You could do much the same and machine out the plenums under the carb mounts and put an LT1/TPI style 58mm twin blade on the front.
Well its nice to know that someone else out there has done something similar to what I am trying to do.
Just found this thread. I have MS-II on my blown 215 and also on my I-H 392. With the 392 I run 36lb injectors that I bought off ebay for a hundred or so. It's easy to make an injector flow bench. You need a harness and a fuel rail, some switches, a stand of some sort, a fuel pump and a battery and stopwatch and an ice cube relay is handy. Plus something to catch and measure with. Junkyard parts work fine. I bent up a stand out of 1/8" lexan, mounted three rocker switches and a relay and had an overhang that the fuel rail can clip on to. For catch tubes a set of graduated beakers is best but I made up some out of 1" clear tube from the pet supply and plexiglass bases, then measured and marked them in oz and cc increments. Using a stock FPR I can time them at full-on to get a flow rate and compare between injectors for balance. If any need backflushed I just put them in backwards. The third switch puts the relay in the circuit, wired to run as a buzzer. This cycles the injectors and is useful for cleaning and for comparing cycling flow rates. Most people say don't run gasoline through the bench but I've had no problems doing it. I set up a table outside, set a fire extinguisher nearby, drop the fuel pickup and return into the gas can, put the tubes under and around the injector tips, hook up the battery and go. Not much vapor escapes that way. Not smart to run them without the tubes though, it's surprising how much gas they can put out. And definitely not smart to run them indoors. btw, both vehicles run great and are very easy to tune, both fuel and ignition. Idle speed too. I'd never messed with any sort of fuel injection and I scratch built both systems. Not hard at all, but does take a little time. Jim
Jim, what did you end up doing for the idle speed. it's somewhere I'm still hunting for ideas on how I want to implement it. -nate
Nate, I've used the ford IAC for the last two systems I've installed but I used a idle air solenoid the first time and the next system uses the GM IAC. The GM gives the most versatile and precise control simply because the developers are predominantly GM guys so it is more refined but the ford is a 2 wire hookup where the GM uses 4. Basically the ford unit is stepped control with about 10 steps. I think the GM may be continuously variable but since I've not installed it yet I don't know for sure. A solenoid will work for earlier MS controllers, and there is even a Bosch unit that has no external controls and is smooth in closing but I think mixture control with it might be a little tricky during warmup. Jim
Hey Jim, Do you have any pictures of any of those idle controls? The 4 wire GM unit is actually a stepper motor where the plunger can be moved to different positions and held there. The ford unit is like you said just a solenoid that is pulsed to give the desired flow of air. I don't have any megasquirt-IIs so I can't use the GM unit. But I could use the ford. I've installed a megasquirt on my turbocharged V6 camaro but I never put a idle control on it. I'm also working on building up a system for one of my 430's. I have all the parts I just need to get to fabricating. Is the ford control pretty acurate for you? Does it hold the same desired idle speed at cold and hot engine conditions?
Jim, I'm between a Ford and the GM. Did you make a ported mounting block for the GM IAC? I'd rather use a GM one as I already have the IAC out of a Northstar and out of a Cavaler. However they mount into the throttle body thus needing the ported block. The Northstar one requires and gives a larger opening thus allowing more air. I'm guessing this is necessary with the BBB. Unless I make up some of it with my gutted rochester's factory idle adjust then I can use the Cavaler one. The ford version only takes a plate bolted to the front of it with a pair of nipples to connect hoses to, and I like that due to it's mounting simplicity of fabrication. BTW I will be running a MS II with a V3 board. -nate
Sorry to take so long getting back. With the standard MS (not MS-II) I used a simple Idle Air Solenoid (IAS) as opposed to an IAC and it functioned in a on/off manner. This was helpful for warmup but not the least bit progressive, and I really think that for that sort of a setup the Bosch standalone unit is probably better and have heard good reports from guys who used them. One of the problems with an IAS is finding something at a reasonable cost that flows enough. I used a fuel selector solenoid but more flow would have been much better. The ford IAC which uses pulse width modulation to control the variable opening has good flow and control and as a 2 wire is an easy retrofit to an IAS install and as noted can be plumbed easily. I'll try to get some photos later when it's a little warmer. The software gives you 10 temperature steps for opening so it's pretty controllable. You can set the temps and the opening. I did have one issue with the v2.2/v2.0 MS-II setup though which I haven't resolved. After initial startup the IAC gradually closes at which point the engine nearly dies and the controller resets, after which everything is fine. I suspect something in my settings is causing it because it seems to be a unique problem. However because Ford is not the mainstream this doesn't get the attention it would if it was a similar issue with the GM IAC. The v3.0/2.0 install works fine though and it may be a vehicle specific problem. The GM unit is indeed a stepper and much more work has been done on controlling it despite the fact that it is a 4 wire unit. Again this reflects the preferences of the developers for GM products, nothing more. As a result, there are ready made housings available for it which you can plumb into your intake. Personally I think the ones I've seen are a bit clunky and it should be just about as easy to make your own for a specific engine and get something much nicer but it's good to have that especially if you don't have the tools to make one. So far as I know they work just fine. I also seem to recall that Jeep used a housing that is readily adapted to other engines. For a big block you will indeed need more air and I wouldn't settle for lines less than 1/2" ID, keep them as short as possible, and keep restrictions to a minimum. Jim
