So I've been asking a bunch of questions throughout the site as I've entered the dreaded engine rebuild void. Granted, I'm a bit nervous since I've never ventured this far into a rebuild. Did a simple clean up and new gasket build on my 66 Charger but never touch the valve train stuff before. Money is very limited so I'm keeping it as simple as possible. Basically, I'm cleaning the heads (mild port/polish), all new gaskets everywhere, new cam (TA 290_94H), TA lifters, TA stock timing chain. Will also do my best to power tune it based on Larry's tuning thread. I have a bunch of reassembly question coming soon. Mostly where to use RTV, when not to use RTV, do I use any RTV on tin valley pan gasket, etc. What gets blocked or covered or neither (heat riser, coolant passages??) But first I need to give it a good look over and take pics so I can clearly explain what I'm asking. But until then, here are a few pics thus far.
I would be sure to find out if the static compression is up over 10:1 or not to match that 290 cam. If you have lower compression you will not be too happy with the results.. Be sure to replace the cam bearings... I avoid the stock intake gaskets and use the TA composite ones and use the tin center section to keep oil off the bottom of the intake. A tiny bit of RTV around the coolant passages only... Only block the heat riser if you are using an electric choke.
The intake manifold is mostly the only place to use rtv and the corners of the timing cover to oil pan. Does your timing set have advance key ways? Those are 68-69 rockers , so do you have correct lifters and pushrods for that? And I suggest replacing front cam bearing while cam is out. If it shows any wear at all. Pistons have huge dish, check Piston depth from deck. Or are you changing them?
Jeff, what's your budget? I have full set of stock valves already ground,(free), stock valve stem seals,(free) 3 keyway dbl. roller chain/gear set,$50, And set of .030 over Speed Pro hypers hung on rods for reasonable $, you would have to pop for .030 over bore to use them and set of rings, but it will wake up your cam so you can burn some rubber! Don't throw together an oil burner!
No machine shop, just me. Nothing drastic just a home port and polish to my best ability. My timing set is stock and doesn't have the key advance. Is this something I should get? I understand I need to degree the cam since it's not stock? Pistons are aftermarket .030 over. The previous owner replaced them. Yes, I have the oil through push rods. Talked to TA to see if they are ok with the cam and they said, torque rockers to 25 ft.lb. and just make sure I get at least 35,000 preload on the lifter and they should be fine. Most guys are still using the stock push rods with that cam. Gonna talk to them to ensure I get the correct lifters. Let me ask you this; are the valve stem seals easy to replace? Not sure I need them but if they are easy to swap out I'd be interested in your offer for the valves, seals and timing chain. I really don't want to get into replacing pistons at this time.
You will need to see if your heads have been cut for updated valve seals. I would stick to the valve bowl and guide for porting, runner area is time consuming and the bowl is still the bottle neck, so you won't gain anything at this level. If you nick a seat while porting you will need a valve job. Chances are slim your going to get away with out doing one. I would consider the Pistons Mart has if your at .030. Judging by those pictures your Pistons have about 7.7 compression. Just a guess. You will need a higher converter with that cam. I suggest you measure the Piston depth and head cc . That may be more cam then your engine will work with. Here's a pic of my porting, it's just an example. Others may have different tips.
Ok, how difficult is it to replace pistons? Notice I said difficult. I have zero friends who know squat about cars. What additional parts do I need? I guess I can forget about having it ready for Dream Cruise another year. I'm not experienced enough to be able to do this easily or quickly. The "porting" has already been done, the engine has been disassembled, cleaned and all parts painted. Just waiting on delivery of parts ordered. TA said a stock converter is fine with the cam. Also I was planning on lapping the valves this weekend
A set of rings and rod bearings would be best, a ring compressor tool. . The cam specs on TA website even says needs convertor. And with 9.0 compression needed for cam. I would measure piston depth. If it's .080 or more your won't be happy with the amount of work you put into it.
How do I measure the depth exactly? edge of piston or center of piston... to where? Is it measured with a simple ruler?
You will have no difficulties replacing pistons. Watch any number of videos for familiarity. Straight edge and feeler gauges if you don't have a caliper
Jeff, I have two convertors, one is slightly over stock stall, the other is abt 1,800. $50 each if you need one. Both low use. Also you need rings, rod bearings (I have a good set), & a ring compressor. Ball hone or stone type. You can rent one.
Well in regards to tech advice, you're certainly in the right place. Lots of people here with plenty of experience and know-how to set you on the right path. If you keep your pistons (same compression ratio) and you're looking for a bit more than your stock setup, and you want some lope to your engine, you can still go a bit smaller on cam choice and still get a nice improvement. The TA 212-350 or the TA 284-88 cams might be a better match for what you have now (or have someone grind you up a custom cam matched to your combination--it'll cost a little more than an off the shelf cam, but not much more); otherwise, get yourself some better pistons and use your original cam of choice. You're about to find out that once you get started and you're into it, money is going to burn through your wallet like you've never imagined. lol Best wishes to you, and we're here to help. We can guide you through the cam installation process too (you'll need to get yourself a degreeing wheel).
You will find doing it right the first time is cheaper then cutting corners and cheaping out then having to do it right the second time. And I would say at 7.7 the 284 would be crap too.
As far as the 'cam too big for your compression' comments, consider this: the stock cam's IVC point is around 71*-75*, and the TA 290-94H cam sits at 73* when installed at 4* advance. So as far as losing low end, the engine might not have much to begin with in stock form, so that cam wouldn't have much to kill there, but would certainly pick up and get out of the way at 3000+ RPM. A higher stall could help offset this handicap. Could always see about milling the heads to bump compression, even if some has to be taken off the intake side for manifold fitment. Could get another .5 or so point from that, depending, and wouldn't have to touch the bottom end. Those soup bowl dish pistons sitting way below deck probably wouldn't be in any danger of needing a piston to valve check either. Just something to consider.
Those 340p pistons only come in .030 overbore. They're cast replacement, and are a little less than 300 bucks at Summit. If you removed those old pistons and did a bore check and found out they're pretty straight, you might be able to get away with a re-ring/hone job and bearing replacement along with those pistons, and you should get well over 9:1 right off the bat. That would solve things, providing your fingers are crossed tight enough. :O
How much for those pistons... better yet how much for the whole Chabang? It's already been over bored .030, and I say this because the pistons aren't original and they say 030 on the heads of them. So I'll need to also purchase the rings and bears, which I think would hit me for another $150
On to another thing for a bit... I'm replacing my trans filter and pan now and wonder if people are putting the gasket on dry (no gasket rtv). It's a Wix rubber gasket.