My engine is finally done...WOW!!!

Larry,

Does "The Wizard" happen to have a picture of those fusable links? We cut tomething off two of the hot lines, near the starter. They were rubber covers, about one inch long and the width of a pencil. We cut them open,they did not look like fusable links, they looked more like splices. OOPS! If that is indeed what they are, can you give me a part number of what you used, and where I should install them? I feel like a fool.:shock: Please help me out with this one.

Regards, John.

 

John:

Yes those are the fusible links that you removed (pencil dia. rubber pieces down by starter). You can get the fusible link wire at any autoparts store. Its just a length of 14 ga. and 16 ga. wire. They'll be color coded differently. The lengths I bought were orange for the 14 ga. and blue for the 16 ga. Just solder them in and cover the joints with a heat shrink tubing, preferably the tubing with the epoxy sealant inside. I would separate those wires at the splice further up the line and keep the two halves of the system separate.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I will most likely have to go back in and add the fusable links, and split up the "Blob", but for now, I need to press ahead, and get the rest of it put back together. I need to get this thing running and moving. Thanks again for setting me straight.

Regards, John.

 

Today, was the day I got my car running and took her for some rides! I am pleased overall, but have a handfull of issues to deal with. The biggest, is the break pedal. I have a hard pedal, and not much throw. i am not sure if it has a vacuum leak, or just has low vacuum? I will perform some tests, and see what you guys think. It is a real ball buster down low. You stab the pedal, from a start, and she blows the 275/60 Drag radials away. However, I swapped out my "BB" trans, and lost over 500 rpm on my w.o.t shifts. The "BB" used to shift at 5200 to 5300 rpm. My new trans shifts at 4800 rpm. According to my dyno sheet, I am leaving 30 hp on the table. Because of this, she does not seem like she pulls to the finish like she should.

Also, I installed a round, Marshall fuel pressure guage in the fuel line, to let me know what my pressure is at idle. It bounces all over the place, from 8.5 to 9, to 11 lbs. I was planning on puting the electric pusher pump, on in the coming weeks. It is internally regulated to 7lbs. Would buying a similair guage, with liquid in it solve the fluttering, or do I have a fuel pump issue? 9 lbs seems high, to me, although, she idles just fine. Any help would be appreciated. I will post some pics of the installed an running engine, sometime this Sunday.

Regards, John.:TU:

 

Well,

Here are some pics, of the final install. I drove it home, about an hour on the highway. My speedo is off, because of the new tranny, and I am motoring along at 2800, to 3000 rpm. (I think.) Problem is, my speedo says that I am alternating my speed , and my hood tach is staying the same, unless I really let off the gas, lets say, down to 60 mph, or so. I have made a few power blasts, and I have no idea how many rpm I have run. I am passing people, and my speedo is flying, but the tach is stuck at 3000 rpm, it sometimes goes up to 3200, then flutters a bit, then goes to a steady 3000 rpm. My foot is still on the floor! I need to call MSD tomorrow, I think that the all in one distributor, is causing interference. If I can't work this out, I will have to buy a new Auto Meter Tach for my steering column.

Next problem, is that I am still running 10 lbs of fuel pressure, at idle. I have changed guages, and the reading is the same. I put a liquid filled guage on, my fluttering went away, but the pressure is still high. It idles fine, but I am not sure what the long term ramifications are. Enough for now, I will post some pictures of the car and the engine.

Regards, John.o No:

 

Here are some pics.

 

Here are some more.

 

Sorry?!

 

If anyone is tired or bored with this thread, or if I am beating a dead horse, just tell me to stop posting??!!

Regards, John.

 

You go right on posting away John :beers2:

The shift point difference is prolly due to the different valve body in the new trans. I'd look into swapping in the one from your BB trans and you can have them install the correct gear for the speedo as well (pleant of info will come up from a search on this...)

As for the fuel pressure - you may have to go to running an inline regulator.

Your install looks beautiful and you have ALOT to be proud of :TU: I'll bet finally getting behind the wheel was a real treat !!

Comgrats :bglasses: :3gears:

 

That engine sure is purty! Dig the SP1.:beers2: :TU:

 

John,
The install looks sweeeettt! sounds like you are having some fun. Keep posting I am right behind you. Wildcat has my engine now and i hope to have it back next month some time. I will be in your shoes soon enough so I am interested in your progress and advice. Track any time soon??

Mike NJ

 

Ok. This is a long thread and there are several things I wanted to discuss. I hope I can remember them all, so bear with me. First, Wildcat and Mike Laciura are top rate in my book. They have done 4 engines for me and all have been top of the line. Good decision on your part. You will be happy. And your car is freakin beautiful!!!

Now, for my $.02.

ALL 4 ends were soldered together from the factory. If you cut them apart, your alt isnt going to charge the battery. One is the back feed from the alt to the battery. Do not cut them apart or you will be scratching your head when the car no cranky.

Do not crank the engine again at all until you get the fuel pressure under control. First, you posted that you had a 1000hp on the engine, then I see a photo with a Qjet. What is on the engine now??? If its a qjet, who built it and when? Why wasnt the engine dynoed with this carb? Heres the kicker. 10 lbs is WAYYYYY too much pressure for a qjet. 6-7 is optimal. With 9-10, you will blow fuel past the needle and seat, and wash down the cylinders in no time. The rings will be toast, the engine will start smoking and loosing power, and you will start complaining about your fresh Wildcat rebuild shortly thereafter. Not good. Too much fuel is just as bad as not enough. Pull the dipstick and smell the oil on the end of the dipstick. If it smells like gas, change the oil and filter immediatly.

Now, do this. 2 man job. Make sure you have at least 1/2 tank of fuel. Disconnect your fuel feed line at the carburetor. Get a gas can and put the end of the fuel feed line in the can and turn on the electric pump. It should pump 1 gallon of fuel in 21 seconds or less at free flow. If it does not, then stop here and get a new pump. Not enough fuel will lean it out, and there go your head gaskets. Running too low a fuel volume and flow is not like running the car out of gas, where it will just stop. Running one lean due to pressure, volumn and flow is a killer in our Buicks.

Do you have a fuel pressure regulator on the car? If not, stop now and get one. Mount it as close to the carb as possible and set the fuel pressure to 6-7 psi. 7 max with the qjet. The pressure gauge should be mounted close to the regulator, on the carb side.

Once you run the engine and shut it off, does vapor rise out of the carb? If so, you have a fuel bowl leak at the carb. A rebuild will be in order, and the bowl wells will need to be epoxied if its a qjet.

The TH400 has a governor to control shift points. The valve body simply controls the "firmness" of the shift points. Simply remove the gov from your old 400 and put it in the new 400. 5 minute job, 4 bolts. That should bring your old shift points back. Dont forget the gov gasket. Same for your speedo. Use the speedo gear from your old 400. It pops right out of the side of the trans. 1 bolt, 2 minute job tops.

What converter did you end up with? What size case ( which really doesnt matter anymore), and who built it? I dont care how much power the engine makes, the converter can make it a DOG. Converter selection is critical!!!

What ignition is in the car? Stinger? MSD 6A? Other? This could be the problem with your tach. OR, a short (even a small one) can kill the tach instantly. I have seen this happen before, and surprisingly the tach seems to work up to 3000 rpm, then gets funky. I know, its odd. I have seen this on factory and aftermarket tachs both.

Your speedo is acting up because either the speedo gear inside the trans is stripped, OR the cable is not fully screwed into the trans OR the back of the speedometer under the dash. Check all of these things for the fix.

Thats all I can remember for now. I hope some of this helps you out and good luck with it.

 

Jim,

Thank you for responding to my thread. I have an HP 1000 on my car, it was dyno tuned with that carb.

I do not have an electric pump on the car yet. I have a new special Stage 1 pump, I bought from the GSCA and Mark Stevens. I am running the fuel return line, but Mike from Wildcat wanted me to check if the line was somehow plugged. He told me to remove the return line from the pump and attach alonger one to the pump, and put it in a can. Run the motor and check the fuel pressure. If my pressure went down, then it was restriction in my line, not the pump, that was giving me the high readings.

I do not have a regulator on the car at this time. I did not think I would need one, with the stage 1 pump and possible Mallory 110 pusher pump. (Internally regulated to 7lbs.)

Thanks for the trans info, and also the wireing info. As for the distributor, Mike got it for me. It is an MSD ready to run/ all included type, with the spark box built into the distributor. I can get the number off the unit, if you wish. I called MSD, and they said that they would send me some sort of capasitor, to resolve the tach problem. Maybe I should start a new thread, do you think so? Thanks again.

Regards, John.

 

In post #25 on this thread, there is a q jet on the engine, that why I asked. Was that a pic of the old engine with the qjet?

I always plug the return line on the stock pumps. You shouldnt need it with your HP1000. The return line on the stock pump simply regulates fuel pressure, and the HP1000 should be able to take it. The GSCA pump is a good pump, but you need the electric pump with the horsepower this engine makes. Put an electric pump on the car. You CAN run the electric pump "thru" the stock pump to make it "look" stock. But the stock pump will basically just be along for the ride because the electric pump will just push thru the diaphram of the stock pump which isnt going to hurt a thing.

You do not need a regulator with the stock pump. With the electric pump, it would be a good idea, even with the 110. I have seen 110 pumps and Holley Blue pumps put out 10-11 psi unregulated depending on voltage. Dont trust what you read. With this engine, you NEED an electric pump. Put one on it, you are in a different league now with those horsepower numbers. 11.50's and .60's in great weather, great traction and the right converter will not be a problem. The stock pump cannot handle "pulling" fuel to the front of the car with that kind of accelleration! I would go with the 140 and the regulator. If you dont want a regulator under the hood, mount it in-line to the frame under one of the doors along with the pressure gauge. With the HP 1000, 8psi should be a gracious plenty.

Your welcome. The dist should be fine. Where is the total timing set at say 3000 rpm? Should be around 36 deg. Hopefully the capacitor will fix the tach, it very well may!

No.

Anything I can do call me. 912-667-2410.

 

Good thread!

 

Jim thanks again!

Post #25, is step 1, remove hood. Sorry, i should have noted that.

My converter is a Precision 9 1/2 inch 2800 to 3000 stall. I believe it is called a "Vigilante".

Are you saying that I should plug the return line, even though i have 10lbs of pressure with my mechanical pump only? Should I then regulate it with a regulator beetween the pump and the carb? I will put the Mallory 110 pump on, because that is what I have.

Question: If I mount the regulator under the door, how will it resolve the 10lbs fuel pressure I have with the mechanical pump. I realize that it will regulate the electric I will be running, but if you want me to shoot for 8lbs of total pressure, I need to reduce the mechanical's output? Thanks for all the help.

I have 36* total timing, at 1300 rpm. (According to Mike at Wildcat.) I will confirm.

I will most likely be calling you for help an clarification. I appreciate this a lot.

Regards, John.:TU:

 

That will work fine.

I am saying you need to determine if you indeed have 10lbs with the stock pump, or if it is a faulty gauge. Does fuel vapor rise out of the carb after getting the engine warmed up and then shutting it off? If so, you either have a carb leak, or too much pressure. Since its not a qjet, I would pretty much rule out a carb leak. If the gauge is correct, then locate the problem. (Do you have a vented gas cap?? Is the tank vented?) If not, the fuel could be getting hot in the tank and pressurizing the fuel system causing the increased pressure, though I doubt it. When you remove the gas cap after driving the car, does air blow out? If so, its pressurized. Rare, but I have seen it happen this way.

I see you used your stock fuel pump while on the dyno. Mike checks fuel pressure while on the dyno, but he uses the dyno's gauge, not yours. Look at your dyno sheet and see what the fuel pressure was on the dyno. If it was right, then your gauge may be reading high.

It wont if indeed the stock fuel pump is the culprit. You could disconnect the stock pump and plumb the electric pump to the carb just to check pressure. That would isolate the stock pump and tell you if it is the culprit or not. I'm beginning to think you have a faulty gauge.

Check your gauge to make sure its accurate. They are not always dependable. Do you have a spare?

That doesnt sound right to me. Should be more like 2200.

10-4