Thats a good point No Lift. My idea is similar to that 462, but using CNC ported Ede heads, stock con rods, and long headers. I am wondering if a 413 or custom cam would work better for me. I love the idle of the 413, but a custom grind might be a better fit. Buickrat1 do you have more stats on that 462? Thanks Josh
12 to 1 on the 482 and 11 to 1 on the 462 both engines were dynoed on E85, we have E85 at the pumps for $1.79 a gallon. I believe the 462 will run on 91 or 93 octane pump gas.
Yes, The cam is a custom grind from Bullitt Cams, we also tried the TA 310 High lift cam and it was close to the same power. The cylinder heads flowed 330 CFM at .550 lift on the intake and 235 CFM on the exhaust at the same lift. Like I said early the heads are TA Stage 1 SE heads, The intake was a ported B4B with a 750 Quick Fuel 4150.
That sounds like a nice build :Brow: Do you think I am looking at around 600 with my build, or do you think I need to get more aggressive with power adders? My build plan consists of stock crank, con rods, 30 over bore auto tech custom pistons CNC ported Ede Heads 413 cam (or something similar) TA SP1 intake stock 800 cfm quadrajet HEI distributor Hooker Headers
Where do you buy 2.100" BBC rods? The rods have to be custom $$$$$ not off the shelf stuff for sure. Derek
How about the last 2 listed here, http://molnarrods.com/bbc-connecting-rods Kind of short though at 6.135, and 6.385.
Not an uncommon size. More often in aluminum than steel probably. I have a few sets of those hanging around too.
If the rods in that build were aluminum then why wasn't that mentioned? Plus the last time I looked aluminum rods were very pricey $$$$$$$$! To build a budget 482 use the 5.4L Ford mod motor rods that are 2.087" diameter big end and get a set of AutoTec pistons that will work for the combo. Here is a set of rods that won't break the bank; http://www.ebay.com/itm/181837638294?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Cost less than having stock rods reconned with ARP bolts and are rated for 700 HP right out of the box! All that needs to be done to them is .010" needs to be taken off the big end's thickness(could be done by hand sanding its such a small amount!) and the AutoTec pistons ordered with a .866" wristpin with the compression distance that mathed out for the extra stroke and extra rod length. :Brow: The biggest cost would be having the crank offset ground(maybe the your local crank grinding shop can even grind the journals .010" per side wider for the 5.4L mod rods?) and the pistons. But if you're building a BBB build anyway the AutoTec pistons aren't the most expensive out there and probably the best N/A piston for under 800 HP for the $$, and chances are the crank needs a re-grind anyway so only around $150 extra for the extra stroke, which that cost is off set by using the rods in the link vs. having stock rods reconditioned with ARP rod bolts! From the TA website; 455 STEEL CONNECTING RODS Product ID: TA_1629A 455 STEEL CONNECTING RODS Details 400-430-455 Connecting Rods A core charge applies, which is refundable if a useable rod set is returned. - $160 core Price: $455.00 The price of just the bolts; 400-401-425-430-455 ROD BOLTS Product ID: TA_1645 400-401-425-430-455 ROD BOLTS Details 264-322-364-400-401-425-430-455, Connecting Rod Bolts. Price: $65.00 Local machine shop cost for reconditioning 8 rods would be around $20 per rod, $20 x 8 = 160 + 65 = $225 minimum to have a stock set of rods gone through, $11 more than the aftermarket Ford 5.4L rods in the link. That is if you have eight good stock rods to start with? JW has posted as well as a few others that it basically take 2 sets of BBB 455 stock rods to get one good set, so if you send your rods to TA as a core set you may end up paying at least $80 more because only 4 out of the 8 are good, $455 + $80 = $535!! But hey, what do I know anyway. o No: GL Derek
I have to agree with 300sbb. If I didn't buy a finished shortblock assembly I would have gone that route, but now I have to go the ARP bolt route. With 10 extra connecting rods I should have a good set, but the previous owner already had new bearings installed on the con rods. Does that mean the bearings will need replaced? I want to get the rods shot peened as well.
The Con Rods are Made by Oliver and they are a steel rod. about $1200 a set they are a very nice piece.
I have eyeballed the 5.4 rods for a while, my next build will probably have them in it, they are lite for a steel rod and they have a small wrist pin, custom pistons would be in order.
Shot peen after the rod prep work, then hone the big end. :grin: Please consider the Speedmaster/Procomp rods to be slightly better than stock. They can be very inconsistent or questionable for 700hp (assuming NA). Unless equipped with real ARP's the stock bolts often stretch to spec waay before torque. Look closely for out of round when fully torqued and keep in mind their 4340 material is inconsistent. Should handle a hot street engine though.
In my (not as educated as many others here) opinion you're not hitting 600 with that combo unless it's a very enthusiastic dyno I'm afraid. I think this is about right if I were playing the guessing game (I'd give it the plus side though). My combo, which is very similar to the one listed above (differences being gessler ported heads, 288-92h cam, Holley 950 carb) made 532 on an honest dyno. But do yourself a favor and don't get too hung up on the numbers. Build a nice stout combo that works well together, and go enjoy it! A dyno is a tuning tool, use it for that and you'll be good to go! $.02
+1. I was used to stock/OEM performance in my Electra. My 417/510 build still makes me happy to this day.
