Call Autozone or O'Reilly's or whatever auto parts store you use. See if they can get it for you. Rockauto want like $11.47 for the gasket. MCCORD Part # 6907M Head Gasket BUICK ENG - B,H,J,X ENG CODES [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 3 Remaining) $5.32 CORTECO Part # 20333CS Head Gasket BUICK ENG - B,H,J,X ENG CODE (Only 2 Remaining) * Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day $7.84 FEL-PRO Part # 8264PT1 Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Part Image $11.47 VICTOR REINZ Part # 3899 Material: VR2000 Except Cylinder Head # 1240142 Part Image $13.78
They are already on the way i got a email from ups stating that it had been shipped, is this price per gasket or for a set?
Well i finally got to pick up the un assembled heads to mock them up, turns out they only had to mill .036 to get to 51 ccs, the mock up to me looks fine but im going to post some pictures in a minute to make sure, all of the bolt holes line up fine the only thing throwing me is the gap between the intake and the block itself.. ---------- Post added at 12:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:13 PM ---------- found my old intake bolts and gave them a quick cleaning and they went in with no hassle so im good to go on that part, still curious on the gap between the manifold and block..
The gap between the front of the intake and block rail? Milling the heads should make the intake sit higher increasing the gap. You can seal it with RTV.
Space in the front and back? Isn't that where the rubber gasket goes for the intake? Does it have locating nubs on the block side?
Here it is mocked up, How the bolt holes line up Also this was mentioned earlier, i didnt say anthing about it but they did blend the oversized cut of the valves into the bowl. Heres the close up of the gap.
Alright great, im droping them off later today for final assembly then i can check the heads of my to do list.
I never had a problem with RTV. Put a nice bead on there, let it set up, and torque the intake down. See how the rubber seals fit. You may be able to use them. If you use them, put a dab of RTV on each corner where they tuck under the head.
Milling the heads alot makes a stock cut intake sit closer to the block even if the bolt holes line up enough to screw in and makes it hard to use the rubber seal with a stock intake gasket. I know it's a run on sentence. The rubber gasket with RTV on it when squeezed will mash out.. I had good luck with trimming off the highest ridge on the rubber gasket. It may sit sit a little higher on the heads, but everything sits a little closer
Alright now that the heads are being finished up at the shop what should i do about bolts? Are their any that i can re-use? Ive really got to try and pinch the pennies as much as i can now... But like everything else in this build what needs to be done will be done..
All finished and finally home! The shop tested the springs for the amount and the numbers were a bit different then ta shows... this is what the ta website says 110 lbs @ 1.727 280 lbs @ 1.227 Coil Bind 1.115 The shop measured them and cam up with 98 lbs @ 1.720 280 lbs @ 1.235 Coil Bind 1.150
