My 200-4R swap adventure (1970 Buick GS 455 TH400==>TH200-4R)

Discussion in 'The "Juice Box"' started by Cutlass, Nov 4, 2018.

  1. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Those welds of yours have likely changed the balance a bit. Might have been a good idea to check the balance of the original and match it to the modified.
  2. Cutlass

    Cutlass Platinum Level Contributor

    Good thought, thank you for that. I have not considered that yet. Don't have the equipment to check balance. What I will do, is to grind off material of the welds. That and the fact that I had to grind off some material at the outside diameter of the balancing weight (to get some clearance to the original welds of the ringgear) hopefully get me close to as it was before.
  3. Ken Warner

    Ken Warner Stand-up Philosopher

    It's been almost a month since the last update on this, how are things going?
  4. Cutlass

    Cutlass Platinum Level Contributor

    Had to wait for a shippment from Summit with the fasteners for the flexplate. Hope that I will get some stuff done next weekend (although the honey-do-list in spring is a long one).
  5. Cutlass

    Cutlass Platinum Level Contributor

    Got the transmission in yesterday. Started to do the conversion for the shift lever. For that I got the kit from Shiftworks (SC207-2). The shift cable appears to be very long and I have to route it almost in a s-shape from the location it exits the passenger compartment to the transmission bracket. Did other guys here experience the same? One possibility might be, that the center console is mounted to far to the front. Question to all the guys who converted from column shift to console shift, is there a certain measurement / dimension for the longitudinal position of the console / the bracket for the shiftlever?
  6. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    How long is your cable?

    On my 1970 Stage 1 with a Turbo 200-4R, the cable was nearly stock length in the stock location. Shiftworks provided a new transmission shifter lever, pan bracket and shifter shift plate. It all went together pretty good. The only thing I had to do was modify a GN neutral/reverse light switch to fit on the backing plate my GS used. Works pretty good so far.
  7. Cutlass

    Cutlass Platinum Level Contributor

    It is the standard 30". Today I compared it with the stock cable and it has almost the same length. I will give it a second try tomorrow and see how good the cable will move once it is routed to the transmission bracket.
    Is there a provision for a neutral/reverse switch on the floor shifter bracket? In my car the steering column shifter linkage is still used and I guess also the switch on the column. I am timkering with the idea not to use that any longer, so any information about your solution would be beneficial for me.
    Another question: I will be using the B&M Lockup Control unit. I need to hook it up to to the brake light switch. Do I need a special brake switch, or does the stock switch has two additional contacts which I can use?
  8. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    My car had had some surgeries before I ever got it but when I got it there was a very long pair of heavy gauge purple wires under the carpet along with some others that went to a neutral start switch on the console shifter. To keep it working, I JB-Welded a GN neutral start switch to the backing of the stock one. Now I have reverse lights and it starts in park or neutral.

    Mine has a lock up and you will need to use a later model stop light. Again, I think a GN one will work. It has two sets of terminals. One works like normal for brakes, normally open and closes upon pressing the brake. The is normally closed and opens when you hit the brakes. That's the one for the lock up disconnect. Pretty simple upgrade.

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