my 1964 buick 300

Discussion in 'Wet behind the ears??' started by ukfanalways, Nov 15, 2017.

  1. ukfanalways

    ukfanalways Member

    30 years ago my dad gave me my great aunt's buick. transmission has no drive so i drove it backwards in garage and it set untouched till the last 2 months. need any advice on getting car started that set so long .
    my first step is to engine to turn.
    arfter 2 weeks of Marvel Mystery Oil , transmission fluid and freeze off it broke loose.
    i'm now in the middle of the dreaded water pump.
    broke one bolt that goes though timing cover and the other long bolt i just cut off.
    wasn't planning on removing timing cover but this is where i'm stuck
    i think i removed all bolts but this cover wont budge. thinking the bolt i cut off is holding it.
    you think putting some heat on bolt will work ?




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  2. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    You need to be careful with heat and force on aluminum, and the 300 has a good bit of it.
    Heads, intake, water pump, timing cover, and some adapters and other parts.

    I have had great success with Kroil and using a DeWalt heat gun on the 300.

    There is enough shank on that bolt to get good purchase with vise grips, or even a small pipe wrench.

    I would apply the Kroil over several days, then try to work that bolt back and forth, a little at a time, with light taps, both directions with a ball peen hammer on either the wrench, ot the end of the shank wile applying torque.

    Alternate with the heat.

    Patience will often yield great results.


    A hard rubber mallet, and or block of wood are best for using to strike all around the perimeter of the housing to help break it loose as well as soaking with carb cleaner and or Kroil, as that can help break the bond of gaskets and sealers.

    55 years that timing cover has been happily married to that block, it likes it there, and is not going to let go without a struggle.
     
  3. ukfanalways

    ukfanalways Member

    thanks for input , it wasn't bad till i started on the water pump.

    and yes it is very hard to spray and walk away.
     
  4. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    LOL. Don't I know it!
     
  5. elagache

    elagache Platinum Level Contributor

    Dear ukfanalways, Michael, and V-8 Buick fans of more "mature" Buicks.

    Welcome to the forum and glad to see another person with a mid-60s Buick! :)

    Could you please post a few more pictures. Do you know which model of Buick your great Aunt owned? It looks like a La Sabre or an A-Body but I can't figure out which one.

    That's probably the best advice you'll get. You don't have to get this engine running in a hurry. It could be very much a case where "haste will make waste."

    Best of luck with this project and keep us posted!

    Cheers, Edouard
     
  6. dvkramer

    dvkramer Member

    I'm looking forward to more update of this project.
     
  7. ukfanalways

    ukfanalways Member

    yes it's a le sabre
     
  8. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    x2. Kroil is the best solvent on the market. Alternate between heat cycles and Kroil applications. A propane torch would work too.
    Aluminum expands more with heat than steel does.
    Heat.... apply solvent, tap with a hammer, and repeat.
    To get solvent to the mid portion of the bolt, you can drill a small hole or two thru the alum to the bolt.

    If vice grips/pipe wrench on the stud don't grip well enough, you can welt a nut onto the stud.
     
  9. ukfanalways

    ukfanalways Member

    2 cans of carburetor cleaner worked wonders . thanks for the tip buick15.jpg buick16.jpg
     
  10. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    I forgot to mention, the timing cover has a lot of mating surface area to size of object and a lot of holding power to overcome, but once the solvents penetrate and start breaking the gasket bond, it will come off.

    And you will stand and look at it and wonder what the heck was holding it on.
     
  11. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    Electrolysis is your big enemy with that engine. Have you broken it loose at the bottom? If you can separate the gasket and get it to wiggle a little it may get things moving. Then you may be able to slide the cover off the broken bolt.

    Anywhere aluminum meets steel or cast iron is subject to electrolysis damage. Where the timing cover ports meet the block and the front and rear water ports on the heads are areas for concern and usually have damage if the cooling system hasn't been flush on a regular basis. The water ports on the heads are close to the fire ring and if the damage gets into the ring the heads will need to be welded. You will get a good idea of what the heads are like when you get the timing cover off and see hoe much damage is around the water ports.
     
  12. ukfanalways

    ukfanalways Member

    I got the intake cover off and the 2 broken bolts is not flush to block....YES


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    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  13. elagache

    elagache Platinum Level Contributor

    Dear ukfanalways and V-8 Buick restorers,

    Congratulations! That's progress! :)

    Cheers, Edouard
     
  14. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    Get a flat piece of copper about 1/32 or 1/64 thickness and drill a hole the size of the bolt, then slip it over to acts as a protection to the block so you don't gouge it if you go with vise grips, but I would weld a nut on it and try working it back and forth with low preasure on an air wrench.
     
  15. philbquick

    philbquick Founders Club Member

    You could also weld nuts onto the broken bolts. If the bolts start to move don't unscrew them, rock them clockwise/counterclockwise and work them out slowly. Your block does not appear to have much electrolysis damage around the water ports.
     
  16. ukfanalways

    ukfanalways Member

    bolts are still in block but it's been a productive week cleaning.
    i'm waiting on welding nuts to broken bolt till new timing chain comes in.


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  17. RodneyRiviera

    RodneyRiviera New Member

    Hi new to this forum but interested on what you are doing. I found on a previous 300 that the timing gear had started to disintegrate as it had a metal gear with nylon covered teeth.

    I replaced those with an all steel gear set and chain and no noticeable noise difference. You may want to check the rocker arms as this point, they are alloy and can break or crack.

    And no doubt you are aware to prime the oil pump with Vaseline (petroleum jelly) before you start it.

    Just my two bobs worth from down under.
     
    ukfanalways likes this.
  18. Sawyer63cat

    Sawyer63cat Silver Level contributor

    Great project, wish you luck. Will follow closely. Can’t offer too much yet as I’m unfamiliar with the 300. But I have a close cousin of your lesabre in a 63 wildcat with the 401 so maybe down the road I’ll chip in.
    Keep plugging
    Tom
     
  19. ukfanalways

    ukfanalways Member

    good news bolts are out !!!
    used this stud extractor i saw on you tube.
    Merry Christmas.

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