Musclepalooza XIV @ Lebanon

Discussion in 'Other Buick Events' started by Tricolor72, Aug 22, 2011.

  1. Tricolor72

    Tricolor72 Well-Known Member

    Its Sunday September 4th and I am definitely not missing out on this one. We may have missed our Buick day at Etown but Musclepalooza may be the large event I am sure most of you look forward to.

    Trophies Awarded *
    1st Place & 2nd Place awards for: Chevrolet, Ford, Buick, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Plymouth, Dodge, AMC, plus Best Engine, Best Paint, and Best of Show. Plus your chance to have your car appear in Hemmings Motor News or Hemmings Muscle Machines.
    New Trophies This Year:

    Seems they award trophies for top cars of each manufacturer as well (new news to me, maybe not to most of you who have been to a few musclepaloozas)

    http://www.hemmings.com/events/musclepalooza.html

    So who is going?:beers2:
     
  2. 71GSX455-4SPD

    71GSX455-4SPD Nick Serwo Magic Car

    I'm seriously thinking about it...:Brow:
     
  3. Tricolor72

    Tricolor72 Well-Known Member

    Lebanon is a great track, and there may be a slightly smaller turnout due to the fact its not Etown which means more runs in my opinion
     
  4. philip roitman

    philip roitman Well-Known Member

    Ken call me. I am going and trying to find a hotel for Sat night. going to race F/S in FAST .Comfort Inn is SOLD OUT Would love to Caravan with You. No rooms then i leave Sun at 6AM:3gears: Spent a fortune painting her to go faster, will be her 2nd time out since! (only on the track) :3gears: :3gears:
     
  5. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    I had the pleasure of running the 65 in the same class as TriColor 72 this past weekend, and was mightily impressed with his enthusiasm and dedication. He ran well, and made it well into eliminations without a loss...his car ran great and is a well thought out package. We both put a few "Jegs/Summit Specials" back on the trailer.

    The air wasnt good, it was mid 80's and very thick...I ran a couple 10ths off my best time, but a consistant 15.0 @ 90mph about 9 times in a row. I got beat in the "final 4" eliminations by a beautiful mid 60's Dodge A100 pickup running a healthy mopar small block and drag radials. I ran faster, but as the car got into doing hot laps it fell off the dial while he stayed close.

    But I won alot, against some really nice cars including:

    a "farmboy special" mid 80's small block Firebird w/ drag radials (4 times!)
    a sincere 79 Formula 400 with headers and everything else
    a restified 5.0 68 Mustang coupe
    a Yenko Nova (real? cool car anyways)
    a 62 Dodge with a dual quad 392 hemi and class win stickers from the mid 70's (I still dont understand that)


    I ran faster than everything but the Nova (broke out of dial, and thank God because I spun at the light) and the Mustang (horrible light)

    Proud to report that I made it up, raced all day and drove home on a single tank of gas with out breaking anything. Thats a good day!

    I was dissapointed I didnt get a chance to meet fellow 73 owner Phillip Roitman, as he apparently broke his car on Saturday. And had hoped to run into Ken Mild again, who runs a gorgeous 12 second 69 Stage 1 in the F.A.S.T. class.

    I made some mods for weight transfer and had new aluminum rear drums, but was surprised that neither made a significant difference. While the front lifted more at launch, I still couldnt leave at any more than 1700 rpm without going up in smoke on Coker Redline Silvertowns.

    Another observation is that anything running less than 14.0 at this meet was no longer a stock car like mine. Low Gears, Drag radials and big cams, and most all trailered. That kind of ET doesnt come for free.....

    I plan to go back to LVD in October15/16 to run with the "Supercar Shootout" guys, and hope the air is better! It would be great to see some of you there.

    Thanks,
     

    Attached Files:

  6. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Sorry I missed you Rhett. I was with Phil & after the rocker shaft broke on his car with no replacement to be found it was decided to head home while it was still light out. Lets see what Oct. brings. One of these days it will happen.

    Tom T.
     
  7. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    I guess a rocker shaft is about the best possible failure, so I'm glad t o hear it.....Look forward to meeting you in person as well. And very interested to hear your opinion on a next "bang for the buck" mod..rockers have an appeal!
     
  8. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Are those Redlines radials??? Bias ply tires will grab better than radials. At least they DON'T keep spinning once they start. Just for the hay of it get some used ones & try them out on the street & see what happens.
     
  9. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    They are radials, but they overall did pretty well....I owned the 60 foot on every run in the 2.17 - 2.2 range. Only the Nova got me with a 2.19 when I spun on that one run when I tried a 2k launch. Gotta love the nailhead torque.

    However, past the flagpole it's anyones race......
     
  10. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    BTW, I think I'm leaving 1/10th (or so) on the table with shift points and pressure..

    I got an extra governor and valve body to play with, but I'm confused when they talk about enlarging the high clutch feed on the valve body.. it looks like they really mean drilling out the feed piston.. any insight?

    This question probably belongs in the "juice box' section....
     
  11. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    The old 'Blueprinting Buicks for Action' article is online here:
    http://www.buickstreet.com/nailhead-blueprinting/

    The pic isn't very detailed, but maybe it'll help. The 'high clutch feed passage' hole in valve body plate needs to be enlarged from 0.090" to 0.125".

    Nice Drivin':TU: !
     
  12. No Lift

    No Lift Platinum Level Contributor

    Well the thread has digressed but I'd thought I'd chime in. Rewire the switch-pitch trans to manually control the high stall. You want to have it in high stall off the line and then immediately turn it off for the rest of the run. With your tires maybe turning it off full time might be the answer for better off the line performance. I know my GS' switch pitch didn't work until I replaced the converter with a junkyard unit I picked up for $10 that was laying beside a car with a floormat covering it(wayyyy back when).

    I seem to remember that the GS came with a beefed ST300 compared to the pedistrian cars. My '65 seemed to shift very nice into high so I'm thinking that the bigger feed to the piston will be worth almost nothing but it wouldn't hurt.

    If you don't have one get a tach and try shifting higher at the drags manually until it slows down. Then if you want, modify the governor to the optimum point.

    Block the heat riser passage to the intake.(If you drive it in very cold weather leave one passage slightly open.) Whatever you do get rid of the exhaust under the carb. Probably could afford to remove some material off the secondary weights to get them to open faster on the AFB.

    Posi? Airbags?(Pump up the right side.) Recurve dist? "H" pipe? Lower restriction mufflers? These would be expensive but cool on a "stocker":

    http://waldronexhaust.com/drivercontrolledexhaust.htm

    Plenty of things to do that aren't too "racy".

    Talk about digressing.
     
  13. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    Mike - great suggestions and thanks for jumping in!

    I actually put a Bruce Roe controller in the car cause I'm too lazy to flick a switch. It had him modify it so under full throttle from "brake on" mode it kicks into high stall at 3 seconds, or just past my 60 foot. Works pretty good, but does probably make for a trickier launch. But the SP really does move the car!

    I've tried holding the shift higher, but it seems to shift slower in the manual mode - it negated any benefit to adding any revs... the car shifts pretty quick but very soft in automatic mode, and shifts early at maybe 4700 rpm tops even at full throttle. I wouldn't want to go much higher, but 5000rpm sounds about right and Iwouldnt mind a little kick at the shift.

    I did try blocking the heat riser early on but it created stumble off idle, so I put the open gaskets back in, and plugged the heat crossover passages at the carb base instead - works good but the Carter still doesnt like excessive heat (like multiple back-to-back runs), it seems want to stall at idle- I might try a short spacer to insulate better, but launching at 1700 rpm it doesnt come into play. Mixture and secondary response are always very good, but I've got a complete Q-Jet set up I'd like to try when the whole "pure stock" thing wears off.

    Posi: check, with 3.23's
    Airbags:check, with 10 psi rt side, 0 left
    Recurve Dist: check, but not all in until 3k. Would like to try 2500, need to recurve when I get a decent auxilary tach.

    Exhaust: Big problems here - currently no more than 2.25 inch head pipes with no crossover into cheap, cheap mufflers (one installed backward) and 1 7/8 tailpipes. No wonder I have no top end...
    I did talk to Gardner Exhaust about a complete system, but I have to take a out a home equity loan to buy one...I do like those vacuum cut outs from Waldron too, but would I havent seen anythign that says it would make the car actually go faster, just louder. But louder is still cool.

    So I see your digression, and raise you 20.

    And Wkillgs - that was one of the articles that gave me the idea on opening the clutch feed... there were a few articles from the day all saying the same thing..thanks for passing it on, and anybody who hasnt sen it will find it very interesting!
     
  14. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    You can make up some manifold extensions to simulate open headers.
    Or take off your tailpipes.
    Want a full system? On my red '66, I have the stock manifolds with a 2.5" Magnaflow stainless system (#15893) behind it. About $350 on sale from Amazon, $400 on eBay. There's enough extra pipe to connect it to your manifolds. Super-nice system, but a little loud for me. Gonna put some Walker dynomax mufflers on it...:bglasses:
    I put a Gardner system on my silver '66. VERY nice but about $700.
     
  15. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    how do the tailpipes look - turn down?
     
  16. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    The Magnaflow system has 3 tailpipe outlet options:
    -Straight back
    -45 degree bend at end
    -Polished tips with a slight turn-down.

    I went with the polished tips. I'll have to get some pics.
     
  17. Tricolor72

    Tricolor72 Well-Known Member

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